M103 Best Motor Ever - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

volosong · #31 06-18-2009, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

How frequent? I change it every 4k with synthetic Rotella Diesel oil. 5w40....and I use the genuine German filters (Mann or Bosch) Is that a good enough interval?

Don't know about Rotella Diesel oil, but the interval is fine.

I have my oil changed every 3750 miles, (plus or minus a hundred or so), with Pennzoil 20-50. That is an even multiple of 15K/30k/60k which are more extensive services. Makes the math easier. I made up a spreadsheet after the maintenance book "expired" with mileage service is due, what type of service, and space to fill in the date of service and any other things that were "fixed" or replaced. I just keep it in the map pocket of the driver's door with the owner's manual and registration in that cheesy clear plastic pouch.

#32 06-18-2009, 06:52 PM

Unless you do a considerable number of short hops, a 4K oil change interval should work well. Using Rotella in one of these engines is not a bad plan either. Flat tappet cam engines need ZDDP additive for cam and lifter life. Todays passenger car oils don't have it due to the vast majority of cars having roller cam followers these days.

Thanks to the latest emissions pressure on diesel engine oil, the ZDDP content in the the diesel oils such as Rotella has decreased. Since, however, this is a sliding follower system, the amount of ZDDP in the latest Rotella should be adequate.

The vast majority of the miles on my 300E have been with Chevron Delo, the Chevron equivalent of Rotella. I personally would NOT run any of the newer passenger car oils in the M103, especially in the super lightweights that so many modern engines successfully use.

Strife · #33 06-18-2009, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lkchris

Now the cars these engines were installed in is no contest. Not that many '80s BMWs around, are there?

I've wondered about this . Why is this so? Are they that bad, or is the parts support bad, or is MB that good?

Chowbow · #34 06-19-2009, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strife

I've wondered about this . Why is this so? Are they that bad, or is the parts support bad, or is MB that good?

They're a dime a dozen in the San Francisco Bay Area. But maybe because there's no snow, no salt etc. I wonder if they rust quickly and get junked?

pawoSD · #35 06-19-2009, 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

Unless you do a considerable number of short hops, a 4K oil change interval should work well. Using Rotella in one of these engines is not a bad plan either. Flat tappet cam engines need ZDDP additive for cam and lifter life. Todays passenger car oils don't have it due to the vast majority of cars having roller cam followers these days.

Thanks to the latest emissions pressure on diesel engine oil, the ZDDP content in the the diesel oils such as Rotella has decreased. Since, however, this is a sliding follower system, the amount of ZDDP in the latest Rotella should be adequate.

The vast majority of the miles on my 300E have been with Chevron Delo, the Chevron equivalent of Rotella. I personally would NOT run any of the newer passenger car oils in the M103, especially in the super lightweights that so many modern engines successfully use.

Good to know. I will continue my synthetic diesel oil....it seems to like it, and it lowered consumption dramatically. I did run 0w40 Mobil 1 in it for about 3k....and it went through it rapidly....like 800 miles to the quart....I put a stop to that real quick!

It goes about 1300-1500 miles now between needing topping off. I am using a synthetic due to the cold climate here, otherwise I'd probably run a dino oil like regular rotella or delo.

I know some use heavy stuff like 20w50.....but that stuff must be like glue in the cold....can't be good for the engine. 15w40 dino oil barely comes out of the bottle at 10F....

volosong · #36 06-19-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

...
I know some use heavy stuff like 20w50.....but that stuff must be like glue in the cold....can't be good for the engine. 15w40 dino oil barely comes out of the bottle at 10F....

I'm in the "high desert" of Southern California, (elevations around 2,500 to 2,800 feet). Pretty warm around here most of the year. Does get chilly in winter, but not so bad. When I go to work on winter morning, my main concern is ice on the road. It rarely gets into the high 20s around here, even during the dead of night. So, 20w50 works fine for us.

ps2cho · #37 06-19-2009, 11:13 PM

I use 10-30 in my wagon (due to rebuild) and 20-50 in my 260E as it is burning a little.

I gotta say that the top end rebuild on my wagon was just awesome. Plenty of space to work with and it was very straightforward!

Hit Man X · #38 06-20-2009, 01:14 AM

On the BMWs, I own three with the single cam I6 (weirdo turbo ones but basically the same)...

Motor is half a liter more in displacement on most (some were 733i, less cubes)
Far more advanced port fuel injection (Ljet were early, Motronic late)
Easier to rebuild front end (struts), similar rear
Single row chain on the M30s (small six had belts)
Four speed trans w/ lock up

HVAC is terrible on them. You think the MBs are bad... LOL Tiny condensers, tiny aux fans, etc. Separate temp wheels from pushbutton unit equates to more crap to buy. PLUS vac pods UNDER HOOD AND INCABIN. Heater cores always fail.

Lots of electrical crap can keep you stranded. Main relay, fuel pump relay, on board computer, fuse boxes melt down, etc.

ZF's 4HP22 will burn up the forward clutch pack unless the trans has been remanufactured properly. $2-3500 price tag most owners face... just junk it instead. This was super common... even worse if you have other aforementioned issues.

Starter R&R will make you punch a baby.

That's at least for the E23 7-series. Great when new, but get terrible quick.

jwhughes3 · #39 06-21-2009, 08:26 PM

Normally I love driving my '78 280 coupe, but today I was driving home from work in Kerrville to San Antonioin the 300 - just felt like letting it wind up thinking about this thread and remembering my 5spd 2.6 in Germany, I dropped it into 3rd and ran it back up to 5th not shifting till the redline each time.

Once I got to 120 I backed down to 90 or so and just enjoyed letting it rev a bit in 4th.

Effortless from 80-105 -- much smoother than the 2.6 motor and more power than the M110 even though I STILL feel better driving the old coupe

Hey - it was Father's Day with no traffic and I felt like risking it for a change. Just wanted to share my fun for the day.

John in San Antonio

cliffmac · #40 06-22-2009, 12:33 AM

no, I live in the High Desert....5200 ft....not 2800, that's baby stuff....doesn't have anything to do with anything as far as how a car runs....

volosong · #41 06-22-2009, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffmac

no, I live in the High Desert....5200 ft....not 2800, that's baby stuff....doesn't have anything to do with anything as far as how a car runs....

In Southern California, the "high desert" is commonly used to designate the Antelope Valley part of the Mojave Desert extension of the Sonora Desert, as opposed to the "low desert" which refers to the Coachella Valley, (Palm Springs and environs). It's just a local designation that has nothing to do with absolute elevations, and when when colloquially stated, people who live for any amount of time in Southern California know of which area is being referred.

The Coachella Valley is pretty much near or at mean sea level while the Antelope Valley is between 2,300 and 3,500 feet. Hence, the "high desert" and "low desert" nomenclature.

However, you miss the point. Being in the 90's and sometimes in the low 100's most of the time, I can run 20-50 all year long without designational effects on my diesel engine.

nate300d · #42 07-22-2009, 08:33 PM

I enjoy the performance of the M103 very much in my 300SE, however, the whole belt tensioner, water pump access is a horrible design at best.

pawoSD · #43 07-22-2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nate300d

I enjoy the performance of the M103 very much in my 300SE, however, the whole belt tensioner, water pump access is a horrible design at best.

That is all relative though, each engine will have its item that is hard to replace or reach compared to another. I think the water pump is a minor issue, with the right tools its not too bad. The belt tensioner design is fine IMHO....

Mine goes to the dealer tomorrow for valve stem seal replacement. That should stop the oil consumption and spark plug fouling.

#44 07-23-2009, 08:29 AM

Don't make a huge bet on the valve seals being a cure all.

Yes the belt tensioner and water pump are a pain, but these engines have many other, more important redeeming qualities. I don't consider the M103 to be the end all masterpiece, but it is a very good engine.

dynalow · #45 07-23-2009, 10:16 AM

I filled up with a blend of premium and 10% Ethanol yesterday and I got to wondering if M103 digests Ethanol blends well and if so, to what degree?

Anyone have thoughts or comments from experience?