Head Gasket? or worse

[300EforERIC]

SHORTER VERSION: Car ran hot, Changed radiator and oil. Oil came out a mocha color, And now new oil is the same color off the dipstick. Exhaust spews White smoke and now wont start.


LONGER VERSION: I recently had overheating problems on my 1991 300E 3.0 Liter. After searching and searching for the coolant leak, I found it. The side of the radiator had cracked so I ordered a new one right away. This is my only car so I made a few trips to town with this leak always carrying a jug of water along with me and topping it off before every trip there and trip back. So my car ran a little hot a couple times once the water ran low and i was nearing home. So I got the new radiator yesterday and after work I put it in and flushed the system with plain water then put in the Antifreeze.

I knew my Engine had run Hot so i changed the oil too. It came out a weird Mocha color. Like a cup of coffee with two creams in it. I didn't know what to think, I had never changed my oil that soon nor had I done so after running hot. so I changed it and now the car runs horrible, spews white smoke (which smells horrible). And I checked the dipstick. the oil is the same mocha like color. Even after several wipe offs.

Any Ideas?
Thank you.

[TX76513]

You are getting coolant into oil. Pick one
1. Damaged head gasket
2. Cracked head
3. Cracked block

[Kestas]

I think you have the classic symptoms and story of a blown head gasket. With white smoke coming out of the exhaust, you could take out the plugs from your engine for more verification; one of them should be uncharacteristically clean from the coolant. How many miles? Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

[pawoSD]

Yep, head gasket is blown. If the oil is changing color I would stop driving it immediately and repair it, or there will be far worse damage done to the engine. Bearings do not like water/antifreeze!

[300EforERIC]

There are 188,000 miles on it. Yes I do plan on doing the work myself unless you guys think it might be too complex. I'm going to do the work with a guy who replaced his on his Mazda 626. Different cars but, same concept?

I looked up the kit in Fastlane and there is a set for 86 something or just the head gasket itself for 40 something. Would I just want to do the whole kit and kaboodle while I'm in there.

Any tips or hints would be much appreciated. As well as any "while your in there..."

Thanks.

Let's not jump to conclusions here. Don't just buy a head gasket, take the engine apart and throw it in there. Once the head is off, take it to a good machine shop and have it pressure tested.

Has the car had regular coolant changes. If not, it is very possible that the aluminum head has corroded through between the water jacket and combustion chamber.

The good news is that these cars respond very well to head work. With that mileage, don't even dream of putting the head back on without a fresh valve job and valve guides.

Good luck,

[mbzman]

With that kind of miles I would want to ensure that the top end is in good shape. Have you been able to confirm if it's just the head gasket or if it's more serious ie. cracked block or head? You will more than likely want to change the valve guides and seals as well as all the the seals such as the front timing chain cover, valve cover gasket etc. It would be a good time to change the timing chain given the number of miles. I'm betting that the head gasket has been replaced at least once before. Do you have any service records or history to ascertain if any work has been done before? As others have said, you do not want to be driving the car in it's present state.

[ps2cho]

If you want to do it yourself, this thread will be your bible

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/49516-howto-change-head-gasket-12v-3ltr-m103.html.

I did mine as well here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=241701

I HIGHLY recommend removing the intake manifold and lift the head with the intake detached. It saves a TON of time and you have less chance of making a mistake because you don't need to remove anything from the intake side other than the bolts. Its a little more fiddly, but on refitting, you will thank yourself so much. Also if the water pump is still the original one, I would say replace it now. Get the head completely rebuilt -- Valve guides + seals. Should cost about $350 inc labor to skim it. You need to pressure test + skim the head anyway, so while its at the shop, get them to do the valve guides + seals.

[Hit Man X]

Valve springs too. 200,000mi springs will not have proper seat pressure....