First oil change - looking for advice/tips
 

I am doing the first oil change on my M103 ('88 300SEL) since I have owned it. I have put about 3200 miles on it since I bought it last October.

My car has around 157K miles and at this point, it dont leak or burn any oil, which is rare for a M103 from what I have read. Mine may have already had work done to it in the past however.

I am wanting to get some advice from M103 owners as to what weight/brand of oil would be best for this engine for hot weather. I went to the dealer the other day and bought a Mercedes oil filter, so thats been taken care of. I will look in the manual tomorrow to see how much oil it holds. I am thinking it said 6 or 7 quarts? I may be wrong... it may be more like 5 quarts. I will check it out.

I have not even looked at it, but I am hoping that the oil filter is easy to gain access to and that my standard filter removal will take it off easily.

Thanks for any advice.

The oil filter is accessible from above. It's located on the driver's side behind the air filter assembly. If I remember correctly, the drain plug is 14mm. Hope this helps.

These engines do not have roller cam followers as do modern engines. For that reason, your standard Premium engine oils do not have a zinc additive that is required for long cam and lifter life. The oils that still have this are oils such as Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac and Shell Rotella T. These oils are primarily designed for diesel engines but work out quite well in the M103. I have used Chevron Delo and my 300E now has 320,000 miles and is still in top shape.

I agree with Larry, I use Chevron Delo 15-40 all year round, but we don't get temp extremes here in the pacific northwest.

Years ago I would switch to Valvoline 20-50 in the summer months, but don't do that now because the change in oil formulation. With high miles and really hot weather you could probably use Valvoline, but you would have to add a zinc supplement. I think GM EOS (engine oil supplement) an engine break in product will fit the bill and is probably available at GM dealers now ( it was taken off the market for a while I heard).

Be sure not to overfill either. I have now switched to sucking the old oil thru the dip stick like you would with a boat, much easier on the back.

I second, or is it third, the idea of using one of the diesel rated oils. I bought a 1989 300SE in March and did the oil changes with Penzoil 10W-40 until the last one, when I switched to Chevron Delo 15W-40.

Since I owned it the car has used about 1 quart per 1,000 miles, though it doesn't smoke and the plugs are clean. Since switching to Delo the oil level has scarcely moved since I changed it, 1,500 miles ago.

Like Nipperiley, I've just started pumping the oil out through the dipstick tube. With the top mounted oil filter, it makes oil changes super easy, quick and clean. I pump the oil into clean gallon milk jugs and drop them off at my local Auto Zone.

I do not recommend using one of the gadgets to remove the oil. The reason is that oil change time is the ideal time to get the car high enough to get under so that you can not only drain the oil, but also inspect thoroughly underneath for leaks, loose suspension components and numerous other things that need to be periodically looked at or otherwise inspected.

I have heard about using diesel grade oil before in a M103, but this is the first time that I have seen a reason. Zinc additive for the cams.

So what about the recommended plastic fantastic Mobil Uno?

I have used Pennzoil Dino/plastic blend in the past but next time around I may try a diesel blend.

I don't like those vacuum suckers either. Get a sump bolt with a magnet on it to hold the possible filings.

Mobil One comes in a diesel version with the zinc additive.

what i do is only use Castrol 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer and Fram filters, they are A-OK. 7 quarts in my 300TE and good to go. I have used nothing but Castrol and Fram for 25 years on/in BMW's, Audis, SAABS and Mercedes with no 'oil related engine breakdowns'. It's true...

heck, I even had a Peugeot 504D and used Castrol in it and it ran from 50K miles to 150K miles

i use castrol 20-50 in my car. thats what was used by the dealer until the early 90's on my car. should i be buying a zinc additive?

I use Rotella Synthetic 5w40 diesel oil....it seems to run quite well on it.

Curious as well, been using the same brand and grade.

Okay here's the deal with the zinc additive and the M103 engine.

To begin with the zinc additive is much more necessary during the cam and lifter breakin period than it is in a high mileage engine. Added to that is the fact that the M103 has what is called a sliding mechanism, not as much load concentration as is found in a flat tappet Ford or Chevy V8.

The universal grade (diesel) oils have other redeeming qualities. One is added detergents that will keep a gas engine squeaky clean inside. The Total Base Number test commonly performed on oils comes back with a VERY high number for Chevron Delo and I expect also with the other commonly used universal grades (Rotella and Delvac.)

Now for the testimonies such as "I've used nothing but my precious brand X for 25 years and my engines have lasted forever." That's all very nice except those oils DID have zinc additive in them until just a few years ago. At some point just a few years ago, the engine oil producers saw a way to justify a little extra profit for themselves. They justified the elimination of the zinc additive with the fact that all modern auto engines have roller followers thus not requiring it any more. Did they TELL you that they were dropping it out of the oil? I don't know about you, but they never told me. They just said the heck with those old Farts that drive old cars.

Since they just quietly started leaving out this ingredient, only the last FEW years of that "25 years and my engines run forever" period has been without this ingredient that is life blood for older engines without roller cam followers.

If you drive a car with no roller cam followers, use an oil with the zinc additive included. Do NOT add zinc to the oil with the exception of the break in period after cam and follower change. The reason is that too much of it can cause a sludge problem. The oils that use zinc as part of the blend are carefully formulating the balance of zinc additive with the amount of detergents. Don't try to home brew and achieve this balance. You don't have the lab that your sacred favorite oil maker has.

Use German oil filters, i.e. OE spec.

They mount upside down, and the cheapo PepBoys filters will dump all over everything and the good ones won't.

German filters, Mann and Bosch oil filters are junk in my mind. Is Fram German? Cause I use Fram exclusively and they are outstanding. Mann is junk and even Bosch (excellent as the rest of their stuff is) is marginal. But Fram and Castrol, can't go wrong there.....

You know what another piece of crap oil filter is...Puralator, now that is really junk....they should be out of business by now I would hope...real overpriced ****

no, Pepboys is good, that's where I have my 300TE oil changed. Pepboys is like SuperCuts for your hair...it depends on who changes/cuts your oil/hair. it's all people...it's not the store name.....you can pay Mercedes $80 for your oil change or Pepboys half that...you can pay $80 for a haircut or get a nice one for $15....it's up to you

an Albuquerque? where abouts in the Duke City? I own a house there that's for sale and live outside Chicago now. Wanna buy a house?

I personally use either Mobil-1 10-40, or Castrol Syntec 10-40 in my '90 300SE. I am told (I hope correctly) that the cam metallurgy changed for model year '90 and up and that the zinc additive was not necessary for this motor. I sincerely hope that is true! I was told this by senior members, and so I believe it.

As to filters, FRAM sucks. That's not just my opinion. Go to one of the oil filter comparison websites and see what's inside one. Cardboard garbage.

I recommend OEM, Purolator, NAPA, Dana, Wix, K&N. K&Ns are great filters, but they dump oil when removed. Purolator is a great filter with good components but a slightly thin casing which can be dented by your thumb during installation if you squeeze too tight.

My M103 oil strategy is a bit different because I lose about 1qt every thousand miles. So I don't drain very frequently, I just keep it topped off and replace the filter periodically. Keeps the oil nice and blond.

Advance and AutoZone often do 5qt plus a filter for $X deal. I usually grab this when I can just remember that the M103 is a 7 quart oil glutton. So, I'll buy 10 quarts of synthetic and two filters for about $50. That lasts me for over 6 months, with two filter changes and the oil stays fresh and clean. But that only works because my rear main seal is shot, and I lose oil. Once I get that fixed, I'll have to go back to drain/fill.

so I respectfully totally disagree...Fram is excellent and not expensive and Castrol synthetic is junk as well...believe me I have run many BMW's, Saabs and my current MB with not one problem. That includes mornings with minus 0 temps and days with 100 plus temps, never once a problem with a Fram filter nor Castrol mineral oil, for many years as well...never once a problem...hell, I never changed the 20/50 out of the mercedes last fall in chicago and left the same fram filter on...nothing happened....car runs great still, so whatever you think is your opinion. i know that this is quality stuff...you want to pay more? go ahead

puralator is total junk...total crap....

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree, Cliffmac. Fram filters in my experience have poor flow rate, a filter medium that clogs up very quickly, and a bypass valve that seems to open for no reason at all. Top that off with a poor seal on the anti-drainback valve, and you get dry starts.

Granted, the M103 has an integral bypass valve and I don't know if M103 filters even have one for that reason, but if you cut open a fram filter you will see that instead of the steel top and bottom, you just have a poorly folded filter with a piece of cardboard GLUED to the top and bottom.

Not my idea of a premium filter.

Here's an example:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1662838

And another:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

As you can see, Fram filters don't exactly use premium components. Purolator filters are much more robust in their construction, especially for the price.

Enough said.

Wow... alot of data there... thanks for all of the replies.

Well, first, as far as the oil filter goes, I went to the local MB dealer and bought a Mercedes filter for around $8. I remember them being cheap when I had bought then for my old 1985 380SE. I remember how odd I thought it was that they were made in France and not Germany.

OK, looks like Rotella T is the most recommended for the M103, but I noticed there are different grades... which would be best for a M103 with 157K thats currently NOT burning or leaking any oil? FWIW, our highs rarely get above 100°f in the summer and rarely below 25°f for lows in the winter.

I remember I used Rotella T 15W40 (I think) in my Suburban, as recommended by the PO. Would this be suitable. One other quick question... what size is the drain plug on the pan? My tools are kinda in disarray (long story) and didnt want to get out a bunch of different sockets.

I am sure its in the manual and I can look, but how much oil does the M103 hold? 5 or 6 quarts?

Thanks again.

In Tennessee 15W40 will be fine. Mine takes about 6 1/2 quarts.

BTW, I have an Army buddy that lives just outside Sevierville. I've been there several times since we got out of the Army in 1971. Every time I go there, I threaten to move there. Beautiful country.

Thanks for that information. I will change it in a couple of days. I will find out what size bolt that drain plug is, so I dont have to dig for alot of different sockets.

Yeah, its nice country here, but at times I feel like I want a change, but I was born and raised here and have always lived here. I probably would not be happy anywhere else. Yeah, I go through Sevierville often when we visit Dollywood or Gatlinburg... this part of Tennessee looks just like that part of the state.

You will need a 13mm socket for the drainplug, as I recall.

Interesting information with regard to the zinc additive problem that has been described above. I have never read of it before...:confused:

LOL! I'm on that same program with my 2 M-103 cars. It's the trick M.B. automatic oil change system.
My M-119 car doesn't use any oil at all so I have to change it's oil the hard way.

Good old regular old fashioned STP has the zinc additive that is now missing from our oils.
Regards, Eric

The drain plug is a 13mm on the M103, but it has a 14mm thread (huge)...so the crush washer is bigger than on the diesels etc...

Mine used to use about a quart of oil every 600 miles....and was fouling plugs....so I had the valve stem seals changed, and now it burns nothing, and loses virtually 0....I did an oil change right after the stem seals were replaced.....1000 miles later, the oil level is virtually unchanged, and there is no plug fouling! :)

I go 4,000 miles on synthetic on all my cars.....ends up being 1-2 changes per year.

Thanks for that info! I am going to be changing the oil this weekend. I have stalled, because the oil has stayed so clean. I am 4000 miles on the oil now, but it still looks clean, but its 1/2 quart low now, so I guess I will go ahead and change it.

Only using 1/2 quart in 4000 miles is pretty good for a M103 isnt it?

I have a MB filter... I looked and the filter is mounted upside down... I bet this creates a huge mess on the engine doesnt it? Is there a trick to cut down on the mess?

I guess I will either use the Rotella 15w-40 or the Delo? whatever it was called. lol.

Probably go ahead and change out the green coolant as well.

Thanks again.

For the filter, I would unscrew it about a 1/2 turn to a turn, and let the filter drain while the oil pan was draining, then swap it out just before tightening everything up and adding the oil. Usually prevented a big mess, although you'll still drip a little.

1/2 quart in 4,000 miles is pretty good, especially if you are also leaking a little (and most seem to).

Thanks for all of the replies! Delo 15w-40 it is! :) Going out now (yeah, in the dark) to change it. lol.

Now if I can find a HUGE drain pan. :rolleyes:

Got it changed, but strange, because I checked the oil before I changed it and it was slightly above the min line. However only about 5 quarts drained out, but I was able to get 8 quarts back in it. I checked it and its full on the stick. I asked my dad and he asked me if I was sure it didnt have a double sump? Two drain plugs? It dont does it? No one told me it did. Geez... hope I didnt overfill. I am now reading some threads where it says dont fill it to the max, but I had not yet started the engine, so I guess the filter will take some of this?

Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.

I just bought a 1991 300SE with 86K miles and full records, including window sticker. A real creampuff. The car is coming up on its first oil change since purchase. On this forum, I have read that starting at year model 1990, the M103 engines changed metallurgy of the cams and/or followers so from 1990 on up, the M103's don't need zinc additive. Can anyone confirm whether this is true or not? The PO in Texas used Castrol 20W-50 religiously every 3K miles. I will continue with the Castrol if someone can confirm these newer M103's don't need the zinc, otherwise I'll switch to Delvac like I run in all my diesels;). Thanks.

I've been using Castrol GTX High Mileage in my M103. Would Delvac, Delo or Rotella be a better choice? BTW, I use German filters only.

'88 300E, 70K miles.

In my 1987 M103 I use 15-40 dual rated for gas or diesel. For me the secret is in the ratings. I want CI-4 /SL or SL/CI-4. I do not want CJ-4/SM. You will find oil recipes change but they call the oil the same name as with the old recipe.
Every one has an opinion on oil and this is just mine after many hours spent reading . The latest oils are excellent oils for roller cam engines. Not sure if this is true for cam in my engine. I use a Mann filter.