i tried doing that, even tried priming it like 10 times before i start it and it doesnt help. What i noticed is if i give it a long crank, oil pressure is stuck at 0, and as soon as it builds enough pressure to around 1.5 bars itll start. How much are the CIS adapter, can you get it from the dealer. Thanks Cal for all the pages,

Hmmm...



It's possible the leak is so bad that flooding is preventing it from starting, though if it were that bad it seems like it would hydrolock.

Next time you drive it and put it to bed for the night, don't turn it off. Pull the fuel pump relay first and let it run itself out of gas (then turn it off). This will insure that it can't leak any fuel overnight. Or, just put a bunch of paper towels under the fuel supply line & slowly disconnect it and let the fuel drain out to relieve all pressure in the system.

Next morning, pop the relay back in (if you took it out), prime it a couple of times and then try to start it.

You said before that you get the correct engine temp sensor readings at 80C. Do you get the correct temp readings when the engine is cold? Does the 300E have an intake air sensor? If so, have you checked it?

wow thats a good tip, i think ill try that and go from there, i dont think 89 300e have an intake air sensor, i could be wrong though and no i havent checked it, yes i checked the temp sensor cold and hot and its right on. Ill report what happens in the next couple days

Alright i got someone who knows this car really well to help me out. And the probly is that the injectors are all gumed up. His solution is to get an injector flush, i kind of want to replace them because they are probally 20years old, however there pretty expensive. Has anyone done an injector flush with positive feedback?

$400 injector replacement and still not fixed!!!!!
 

So after searching for years and having a mechanic pull the injectors and tell me they're all gummed up and leaking I decide to buy brand new bosch injectors with seals + labour to cure my hard startings in the morning and flat spots and idle problems. Got the car back yesterday and guess what still ****. Idle problem is definetely still there and so is hard startings in the morning. I haven't yet had any flat spots throughout acceleration so we'll have to wait and see. GUYS PLEASE HELP....

Listen this is what i want you guys to take into consideration. Every morning when i have hard starts. Eventually when it finally starts the car runs PERFECTLY. Temp goes up, no flat spots, no idle problems, faster, smooth running vehicle.

The second i turn the car off, even in the middle of the intersection to restart it, the car turns into a pile of crap. Roughest idle, gotta brake torque to keep it from dying, runs like garbage, flat spots (before replacement, not sure if i get them still). So the car has 2 parts of it, the good running part, and the bad. In order to get the good running car again i have to let it sit for atleast like 4 hours

So what is causing the engine or computer to run terrible as soon as i shut the car off? I know this sounds retarted but it is infact 100% true and happens everyday. I need a solution asap because i'm driving with a temp plate cuz i know itll fail etest since it bombed 2 years ago. PLEASE HELP!!!

I'm sorry, I don't have time to read this whole thread so if this idea has already been shared, again, sorry. On my 88 300E, one of the sockets within the plug for the OVP had gotten very recessed and was no longer making contact. Check all of the sockets within the OVP plug.
Regards, Eric