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-   -   Replacing condensor seals /w radiator out (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266594)

ps2cho 12-01-2009 04:11 PM

Replacing condensor seals /w radiator out
 
I am not too familiar with the A/C system at all on the w124...but I have a leak somewhere. Since I have the radiator out I figure I should replace all the seals on the condenser since I have a kit laying around.

Where are the seals exactly if anybody has replaced them?

R134a seals are backward compatible with R12 correct? I managed to get my hands on some R12 so I would like to use that over R134a.

Thanks,
Robert

ps2cho 12-01-2009 07:07 PM

Also, is it possible to pull the evap out of the blower motor like this shown on a 190E 2.6?

http://www.2phast.com/190E/ACsystem%20006.jpg

dhjenkins 12-01-2009 09:41 PM

Yes, the R134a seals are backwards compatible.

As far as finding the leak, do you have any other plans? Can you get your hands on some nitrogen? (not nitrous oxide). If you have a friend who MIG welds, he might have a cylinder handy. Nitrogen is an inert gas, so you can charge your system with that (do NOT run it) and either listen, use the soapy water method, use some super-blu, or try the incense trick.

Now, while the seals might be backwards compatible, the refrigerant oils are not. If you've already made the switch to 134a, it would not be a good idea to load a PAG filled system with R-12. R-12 needs Ester oil. Either flush out all of the components seperately (take them all out) or stick with the R134a.

compress ignite 12-02-2009 12:44 AM

Do Not "Flush" out your Compressor...
 
(1st drain it as best you can)
Instead Push/Pull the old 134Lube out by Hand Turning the compressor and
feeding it the new oil UNTIL all the old lube is gone.
[using flush in the Compressor will destroy it]

on to Question # 2:

"Also, is it possible to pull the evap out of the blower motor like this shown on a 190E 2.6?"

Hoo Boy Don't we all wish it were so!

The whole dash has to come out of the car 1st...

Some helpful tutorials:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1122635

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=121523

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_dash/

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=197605

AND

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=226049&highlight=W124+evaporator

ps2cho 12-02-2009 01:29 AM

Great links thanks I saved them.

When they say "bad center vent" what does that mean?
I have noticed that I do not get any warm air out of the middle vents at all -- only cold air even though the heat is on. Is this what they are referencing? Also even when the CCU is turned to OFF, I get air coming from the vents, but its not from the blower motor. Is that normal?

5.5 hours total to do the job isn't as bad as I thought. I heard from someone its a 12 hour job and I cringed...

I have a vac pump that works great for getting everything out the system. Thanks dhjenkins for the oil information, good thing you mentioned that.

compress ignite 12-02-2009 03:57 AM

"Bad Center Vent"
 
3 Attachment(s)
Means the Vacuum Pod that controls that "Door" is Kaput.(Or the Vacuum line)

Pictures courtesy GSXR:

dhjenkins 12-02-2009 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite (Post 2351720)
(1st drain it as best you can)
Instead Push/Pull the old 134Lube out by Hand Turning the compressor and
feeding it the new oil UNTIL all the old lube is gone.
[using flush in the Compressor will destroy it]

My bad - he's absolutely correct. It's every other part that gets the flush treatment; I'm just used to having the compressor away from the action when the flush "machine" comes out...


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