Actually, the hose I as referring to is black and approximately 1" in diameter. Below is a link to a DIY article. Take a look at the sixth picture, the one with the circle around the socket. The breather hose is in the upper right hand corner of that picture. You can see where it connects to the valve cover (on the edge of the circle), runs toward the center of the engine, turns and runs along the fuel rail, and then heads down to the electronic throttle actuator just below the mass airflow sensor. It's part# 119 090 19 82. You simply have to remove the air filter components on top of the engine and it will be right there. Shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M119OilGuides

Thanks We had the air filter and valve cover off and I do not remember seeing that hose, but that does not mean it was not there. Will look at it when changing caps and rotors

Really?

__________________
William Weatherby

I mean inside an engine compartment. LOL

I just drove for 1 hour 20 minutes on a highway to go skiing. Car ran fine again. Drove back the same distance and when I got caught in traffic and after runnng for 1 hour and 15 minutes temperature got up to 92C .

Stopped for a light on a small upgrade and when I pulled away, I got that hesitation at around 1500 RPM again . This time it might have felt like an entire bank was not firing.

What is normal operating temp for my car in traffic with outside temp around 2 Celsius ?

It seems like the only thing that is fairly constant, is that the flat spot shows up around 85 C and above . Does that mean anything specific to you?

I ordered rotors and caps and am waiting to have them installed this wednesday

Ask them to save the old cap and rotor. That way you can have a good look at them and probably clean them up and keep them as backups.

__________________
William Weatherby

Will do Take a look at this thread may apply to my problems

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=269100&highlight=OVP


post #9

My problems much, much, much, more likely when engine warm. As a matter of fact , I only remember having problems one time with engine cold if that.

Thx

This just screams spark plug wires to me. If you are like me, (and I think you are), you like to be sure something is bad before you replace it. The way to do that in this case is get the car to a VERY dark area at night and look under the hood with the engine running. If the plug wires are bad you will see them arcing all over the place. When they are really bad you can even hear the arcing! 32 years of screwing with cars and it's always the same. Spark plug wires are the most overlooked, neglected parts on the car. Both my M119s put on very impressive, noisy light shows when I first got them.

Don't install those caps and rotors until you know for sure you really need them. I don't think you do. Send those puppies back.

Please post your results. Good luck!
Regards, Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

Well since I intend on keeping the car for years to come if I can solve this problem, I dont mind puttng on the caps and rotors and then changing plug wires if the caps and rotors dont fix the problem.

I dont even mind spending money on things that will make the car run better and longer as long as thats considered prudent maintenance, I just dont want to take a parts changing approach as that can cost $2500 (MAF COILS HARNESS etc ) and find out it is a simple vacuum line, or one plug suppressor that is the problem.

So I will have the new Mechanic change rotors and caps , check vacuum lines to CTS, breather hose to intake manifold,vacuum lnes to ignition module, and check any other obvious possibilities that could be causing the problem.

If that does not clear the problem I will change the plug wires next , and if that does not work , then have him clean MAf sensor. Did I miss anything ?

New strategy
My Dealer Mechanic replaced the plugs,and he gave the old ones back to me . Three looked worse than the rest , and I assume the 3 suppressors he replaced on plug wires were the ones that matched up with the bad burning plugs.

I am in the middle of the second tank of gas that I am running with techron, and aside from that, scraping rotor caps, changing plugs and 3 suppressors thats all I have had done.

Tomorrow the caps/rotors should get here and I hope the new Indy Mechanic will have time to put them in tomorrow or thurs. at the latest.

I would prefer to not do two things at a time , so I can identify what was the problem when I finally get it resolved . But I am tempted to let him use the MAf cleaner if he wants to , because he is 30 miles from me on Long Island and it would save time and trips, but not give a definite answer.

Maybe I will have him change caps /rotors and then drive around in traffic to let engine get really warm 90C or more, drive around and around and see if the hesitation is gone , and if not then go back and have him do the MAF cleaner.

What should the temp get up to in traffic considering the outside temp? Is there any harm in running the air conditioner to get the engine warmer faster ?

Another piece of information for everyone. I turned ignition to #2 position and all my lights are working. There is no check engine light on my car but ABS, ASR, OIL, ENGINE TEMP, BRAKES, LIGHTS, and any other idiot lights that should be operational on the DASH are working so I have not missed any CEL codes

I strongly recommend you do the wire arcing test yourself rather than relying on your mechanic unless your mechanic is one of the fine, competent, honest mechanics on this board.
Regards, Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

In all my years of working on gas engines I have always heard and thought it was better to keep the spark-plug wires separated from each other and if they have to cross, to do it as perpendicular as possible . Looking at the engine of my MB I was quite surprised to see all the wires running close together and parallel. This seems like a recipe for crosstalk or what ever you would call it.
I agree with 400Eric that you should have a look at the wires with the engine warm and running (revving it up to the 1500 rpms) in a very dark place. I don't mean you should pull into a small one car garage with the door closed and run the engine for a half hour while you look under the hood and breath deeply (good night). Be safe about it!

__________________
William Weatherby

Yeah, he might go night night while enjoying the pretty light show under his hood!

Wire separation. Yes, you bring up a very good point. That's why I don't ever put any of that plastic shrouding nonsense back on. When ever I have a reason to take it of, it stays off for good. That allows me to allow the wires to be as separate as possible. I didn't bring that little factoid up because most folks seem to be too concerned with how pretty things are and I'm too tired arguing with folks about it. I'll admit though that the wires hanging everywhere is not pretty.

However, if his spark plug wires are bad like I think they are, simply separating them won't help much. I would recommend separating the new set though just for good measure. I'd rather have a car that runs great than one that is pretty under the hood!
Regards, Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

Yes, check them before you separate them. I think I'm going to take that plastic wire cover off and separate the wires. I bet I can even make it look nice.

__________________
William Weatherby

Actually I live in Manhattan and its not going to be easy to find a dark place. I also need some one else with me to rev the engine to 1500 RPM and I have heard its not good to use the throttle linkage in engine bay, but only rev via pedal.

Well I hope the caps and rotors get here today via UPS and the mechanic has the time to install them . Then I will take a ride to my wifes cousins house a little upstate and do that arcing test. He also told me he used to see arcing on his past hot rods that he worked on.

I am very reluctant to rev engine without it being under load ( parked). Maybe I am being over protective of my cars, but what is a safe RPM to rev an engine , and not for an extended perod of time in neutral?