1993 MB 400E - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ducaromeo500e · #16 02-26-2010, 12:07 AM

1. The engine harness takes 45 minutes to replace. It is ridiculously easy! You can do it in a 7-eleven parking lot. I promise! Just make sure it really needs it; upon disassembly I discovered my old one was fine at 137K, but I had the new one so I replaced it anyway and kept the old one for a "spare."

2. I have a '92 500E with plastic oil tubes. It's the original motor. It's a myth that '92's all have metal ones. The only way to know is to check. If you want, you can yank the oil pan and check for little plastic "plugs" laying about. If you find some, tube replacement may be warranted. You may also find some timing chain guide chunks. If their is nothing at all in the pan, I wouldn't give the tubes or the chain another thought (unless chain makes noise).

3. If you walk into the dealer, a fan clutch might be $1K. But ACM has one that's made in Germany for under $200 and it's been flawless in my car.

4. 400E's are good cars. I've really come to appreciate the similarities to a 500E; it's practically the same car minus the wide body. The fact that they're not hand built probably makes them more reliable.

Does your car have ASR? If not, you're better off without it, it's intrusive and adds complexity. Enjoy!

Gregg

BioDieseLandon · #17 02-26-2010, 01:57 AM

What exactly is the ETA I'm not familiar with that acronym. I figure I got a pretty good deal on the car so if I have to put a little money and time into it I wont be disappointed. Plenty of life left in it for me!

BioDieseLandon · #18 02-26-2010, 02:33 AM

I am not totally sure what ASR is either...

I do know that the check engine light was caused by 2 things:

1. Air injection system...Could be something real simple.

2. Communication error between 2 modules. This is what made me think I might have problems with the harness.

Other than that I dont seem to have any major electrical issues. Fan clutch seems to be fine I can feel plenty of resistance when I spin it by hand.

400Eric · #19 02-26-2010, 03:08 AM

ETA = Electronic Throttle Actuator. It's a way more reliable device in it's simpler, non-ASR version. It's very true non-ASR cars are way more reliable, less complex, less stuff to go wrong. I went out of my way to get a non-ASR car and that is also what keeps me from buying a 500E as they all came with ASR.

My harness is definitely bad, I've pulled back the sheathing and the horrible sight could not be adequately described without using words that aren't allowed on this site!

My 93 400E was built 09/92 and has metal oil tubes.
Landon, what is your car's build date and what does it have in the way of tubes? Please post!
If you do have plastic ones, you'll have to keep an eye on them as they do have a high failure rate. One of MB's worst ideas.
Regards, Eric

400Eric · #20 02-26-2010, 03:10 AM

ASR is the traction control system.

emerydc8 · #21 02-26-2010, 04:02 AM

400Eric. FWIW, my 93 400E was built in late 1992. It had the metal tubes. The engine number was 12006764.

400Eric · #22 02-26-2010, 05:05 AM

Mine is number 12 006 316. Just a tiny bit older than your's! The car build date is 9/92.
The 4.2 blocks went open deck starting with 12 010 516 which is about March or April 93. I think that is when we got the plastic tubes too but I haven't been able to confirm it yet.

For reference, 5.0 blocks went open deck starting with number 12 008 761 with numbers 820 and 821 supposedly reverting back to closed decks for some reason.
Regards, Eric

ducaromeo500e · #23 02-26-2010, 11:56 AM

FWIW, if you're electrical problem ends up being the modules, I have a full set from a non-ASR 400E that I would part with.

Gregg

ducaromeo500e · #24 02-26-2010, 08:52 PM

For your database:

500E; build date 4/92; plastic oil tubes

BioDieseLandon · #25 02-28-2010, 07:02 PM

My 400E was built in 04/1993.

Looks like plastic oil tubes to me.

Click image for larger version

Name: IMG00259-20100228-1454.jpg
Views: 178
Size: 59.7 KB
ID: 77783

400Eric · #26 03-01-2010, 04:18 AM

That is a great picture!! Thanks for posting! Definitely plastic tubes. This also tends to support my theory that they came along in 3/93. Here's a link to Jim F's article about them. http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_lifter.html

Greg, can you post a picture of your's?
Regards, Eric

BioDieseLandon · #27 03-01-2010, 09:31 PM

According to the information in that link a broken oil tube will lead to low oil pressure...I notice my pressure drops down to around 1 Bar at idle and jumps up to 3 once it is given throttle. Should I replace my tubes right away?

ducaromeo500e · #28 03-01-2010, 09:53 PM

No, your oil pressure is fine.
What those tubes do is pressurize the lifters. When the tube goes bad, you'll get some clacking as the lifters build pressure when engine is cold. It's not an emergency. If there's no clacking during idle when cold, don't worry about them.
I'll snap a pic of my plastic tubes (you wanna see the ones that came out of the car, I have them in a box?).

BioDieseLandon · #29 03-02-2010, 12:06 AM

I will listen more closely for it but so far the only thing I can hear when it's cold is the air pump.

Does anyone have a reccomendation for plugs and oil for these? I am getting ready to do a tune up and I am also wondering if there is anything else that requires frequent replacement during a tune up.

400Eric · #30 03-02-2010, 06:39 AM

An oil leak is an oil leak and even just one of those plugs being out would constitute an unacceptable loss of oil pressure to me. I probably take more shortcuts than anyone around here but even I wouldn't take that one. They may in fact still be OK but those things have a pretty bad track record so I wouldn't wait. I'll tell you what I'm gonna do with my 95 E420: I'm already watching the U-Pull-Its and when a 92 M-119 shows up, I'm gonna pull all 16 tubes and install them in my 95. Just make sure it's not one of those Cash4clunkers cars cause they've had that evil sodium silicate solution run through their engines which of course means those tubes would be contaminated with the stuff.

Try to get an oil that is NOT the newer "SM" standard. Try to get one that is the older "SL" standard instead. All the "SM"s say they also meet "SL", but they are NOT the same and they are NOT as good. They have reduced levels of ZDDP (zinc phosphate). I've noticed that Royal Purple synthetic is still "SL" but you better check to be sure. I'm running some old Amsoil that I have a stash of that is "SL" but I don't know if their new stuff still is. Also, don't go too thin, I wouldn't go any thinner than 10W-40.

Spark plug wires are a very overlooked part on these cars. People mistakenly think they last forever. They don't. Both my 93 400E and my 95 E420 had very bad, arcing, spark plug wires when I bought them.
Regards, Eric