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#1
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Synthetic brake fluid for w124
I know that MB states that the brake fluid should be flushed every year for my 87' 260E, but I know that was back in 87' and much the same as oil technology is far superior today, has brake fluid become any better in regards to "hygroscopic technology"? (if there is such a thing...)
I see autozone carries DOT4 Synthetic brake fluid for like $6.99/L. Would it be worth going Synthetic over regular? Thanks,
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
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#2
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Brake Fluid
EDIT:
Please Ignore my incorrect ramblings. SEE KESTAS's CORRECT reply Below! THANKS!
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 03-02-2010 at 05:59 PM. |
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#3
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Not quite. ALL brake fluid is synthetic. It's just that some manufacturers make a big deal of it and put the word "synthetic" on the bottle.
I haven't heard of any technological improvements with respect to "hygroscopic technology". There are minor variances between manufacturers. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are all glycol-based and compatible with each other. The numbers denote the boiling resistance of each DOT grade. I'm not sure about the difference in hygroscopic properties between the different grades. I've heard that the higher grades actually absorb more moisture than the lower grades. DOT 5 is silicone-based, and is incompatible with the other DOT grades. |
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#4
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DOT 5.1 is by far the best fluid to get the air out of.
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600SEL '91 ![]() 300E 4Matic '88 240D '83 ![]() 280SE '77 ![]() 350SE '73 The most complex systems can fail in the simplest way. Contra verbosus noli contendere verbis, sermo datur cunctis, animi sapientia paucis. i don't believe in the lord! He's never bought me a Mercedes Benz. |
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#5
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Just to clarify -- DOT 5 is silicon and DOT 5.1 is NOT, correct? So I should use either DOT4 or DOT5.1 ?
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
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#6
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(Quoting KESTAS)
"DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are all glycol-based and compatible with each other. The numbers denote the boiling resistance of each DOT grade. I'm not sure about the difference in hygroscopic properties between the different grades. I've heard that the higher grades actually absorb more moisture than the lower grades."
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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#7
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I flush the brake fluid every 2 years on all of mine. I alternate between the ATE Blue and Amber.
With a motive power pressure bleeder it takes less than a half hour per car. The pressure bleeder was about $100 with adapters for most every car. I use a 30 inch clear tube slipped over the bleeders to divert the old fluid into a container.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
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#8
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You should use the grade of fluid recommended by the owners manual. There is a difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4.
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#9
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DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than 3,any other difference ?
mak |
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#10
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There could be an issue with rubber parts compatibilty.
While DOT4 in general does have a higher DRY boiling point than DOT3, it is more likely to absorb moisture. So DOT4, if left in place for more than 2 years, might have a lower boiling point than 2 year old DOT3. Unless one is extremely hard (abusive) on brakes the boiling point is academic. Follow the makers recommendations for the grade of brake to use. |
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#11
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I flush with the "synthetic" DOT 4 valvoline stuff every couple of years....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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