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  #16  
Old 04-05-2010, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnathan1 View Post
I used to have a similar problem with my inline-6 Toyota. I replaced everything, and it still would crank and stumble when hot. I was told that it was caused by "heat soak".

Also, a bad sensor seems like a likely cause. The ECU needs to know when the engine is cold so that it can inject more fuel (open the CSV) and if the temp sensor is bad, then it has no way of knowing.
When I first got the car 1.5 years ago it was extremely hard to start, once I replaced the sensors right away it was much much better. The sensors currently test out good. It only occurs when the engine is hot and is restarted after 20+ minutes....then it doesn't want to start (but it always does within 2 tries)

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  #17  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:37 AM
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pawoSD, do you know the ohm meter reading for that sensor,the fuel inj temp sensor on the rear of the head. Mine is the 2 pin style. Thanx john......
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2010, 08:07 PM
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I pulled plugs and cap to take a look b4 spending money. Cap looks new.
Some plugs look yellow as Gilly said they would.
#1 PLUG= Very yellow
#2 PLUG= A little yellowish
#3 PLUG=Some yellow on one side
#4 PLUG=white
#5 PLUG=Slight yellow
#6 PLUG= tan/brownish
Looks like time for another set of valve stem seals $15.00 bucks.
I will try to take another picture of plugs upload failed.here is the cap
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88 300E A whole lot of cranking!-img_3752.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2010, 08:28 PM
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yellow plugs
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88 300E A whole lot of cranking!-new-small-yellow-plugs.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:44 PM
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Those plugs do not look at all like oil burning, they almost look like the engine is running way too lean and is burning them.

I can't remember the ohm readouts for the temp sensor, if you search the forum it is on here somewhere.

I finally solved my starting issue once and for all today. Had the dealer check the fuel system out, it has good pressure (as I suspected) but bleeds off when the car was turned off.....meaning, bad accumulator! I went right home and swapped on a spare I had from junk yard car....and, works perfect!! It starts almost instantly now, I visited a few stores and left it off for between 10-35 mins at a time, each time it started instantly with no quivering or issue....finally!!!

Now every single part in the fuel system except the pumps themselves and the fuel pressure regulator (which are in good shape) is brand new.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:45 AM
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Start by getting the correct non-resistor plugs as those are wrong.
Then check your mixture settings. Something is going on. A new set of plugs should temporarily solve the problem, but it will return in the near future. The non-resistor might make a big difference though.

About a month ago I inquired here and Phil said he still has some H9DC0, but it was in limited supply.

I wouldn't do the valve stem seals. You are hardly burning much, if anything at all. Not worth the time yet.
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2010, 05:24 AM
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Thanx for the info on the non resistor plugs ps2ch0,I will try them. Is there a prefered brand or style?
pawoSD, I like the accumulator idea as an aircraft I understand accumulators this makes alot of sense to me. Where is it located in the fuel system there are a few pick a parts junkyards with 124 cars here in vegas. Time to get to work thanx for all the info.
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2010, 07:17 AM
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The accumulator is located with the pumps and fuel filter under the passenger rear of the car under the big plastic cover.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:03 AM
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Actually the fuel accumulator is atop the engine near the fuel distributor. The fuel pump check valve is at the fuel pump. Review pictures of these parts on the parts forum so you see the difference.
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  #25  
Old 04-06-2010, 11:35 AM
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I've used Bosch for the past 2 years...I bought a set of Denso plugs for dirt cheap which I will try soon as well. I've read they work fine.
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  #26  
Old 04-06-2010, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
Actually the fuel accumulator is atop the engine near the fuel distributor. The fuel pump check valve is at the fuel pump. Review pictures of these parts on the parts forum so you see the difference.
I would think that the Fuel Accumulator is mounted with the fuel pump/pumps and fuel filter in the rear.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES--BENZ-300e&yearid=1988%40%401988&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6200%3AMBC|1507%3AED|10000013%40%40300E&mode=SS&yearid=1988%40%401988&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6200%3AMBC|1507%3AED|10000013%40%40300E
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  #27  
Old 04-06-2010, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
Actually the fuel accumulator is atop the engine near the fuel distributor. The fuel pump check valve is at the fuel pump. Review pictures of these parts on the parts forum so you see the difference.

That is the fuel pressure regulator, not the accumulator. The accumulator is in back with the pumps.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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