I just replaced the rear brakes pads and rotors and did a flush on the rear. Problem is when I drive I hear a swish every revolution on the rear right hand side as (I assume) the brake bad touches the rotor each revolution at one point. Will this go away, or do I need to re-do something? I do not want to overheat the brake!

Oh yeah, W123 84 300 SD.

Thanks!

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

If your sure the noise is a brake noise and not a bearing or axle or some other rear noise. You shouldn't have to do this with replacing the rotors also but I like to grind the edges of the pads down a bit to eliminated the lip on the rotors from riding on the new pads giving the occasional squeal.

What does that mean?

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

I'm sure he means he flushed the brake fluid out of the rear lines and calipers.

mpolli,

I meant that I bled the fluid in the rear lines, that's all. May have been unnecessary, but I did it anyway. I didn't bleed the front lines this time around (but I had bled those 2 years ago). I think I did a complete system bleed then as well.

So, if I hear a swoosh sound at every tire rotation (which sounds like brakes pads on rotors) should I be concerned? Like BigRed mentioned, I wouldn't expect it to be an issue since I replaced both the brakes and the rotors. Maybe my new rotor is already warped? Maybe I didn't push in the caliper far enough? Maybe I should have replaced the rear calipers with rebuilt ones?

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Most likely the heat shield is slightly bent and touching the rotor.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

babymog,

Thank you for that suggestion - I will check it. Another possibility (that I happened to hear on Click and Clack) is that my rear tire is starting to separate and need replacement - that is a more urgent deal if it is the case...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I hope I'm right, it's an easy and free DIY repair.

Click & Clack is IMO good entertainment, but marginal mechanical advice as their audience and thus their diagnoses are extremely general.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

It could be a caliper, I' m getting a new one tomorrow since mine won't let go and the pad is touching the rotor. I get the same sound.

I would jack up that wheel. Then you can spin it and see if the sound is still there. If not then it could be the tire as you say. If so you could also observe the tread problem by spinning the tire and watching the tread. If the noise is still there then you can hopefully see what the issue is.

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

OK, I found the problem. One of the rotors was damaged on the part that mounts onto the hub area. On the inner side there is a small track and a small piece of metal is torn out of the upper and lower pieces of the track. Since I have had these rotors for years, I assume I have no recourse, but I had ordered them online from one of the tire/brake sites.

My question is, can I have one new rotor of one type and one of another, or must I replace this one with an identical one to match the other side?

__________________
dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg