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  #16  
Old 05-16-2010, 09:55 AM
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Very funny. I've looked and found no US sources. Why pay int'l shipping? Don't be a dick.

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  #17  
Old 05-16-2010, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBYCC View Post
The M103 when new and still now will perform at it's best when using the specified OEM or equal parts.

How do I know?

My M103 was purchased new, still own it, but now has the benefit of a period TurboTechnics twin turbo install.
Yes, I'm sure technology hasn't advanced at all in the last 25 years and the mid 1980s was the peak of human evolution. Long live reaganomics and leg warmers

This message was posted from my AppleII

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  #18  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Yes, I'm sure technology hasn't advanced at all in the last 25 years and the mid 1980s was the peak of human evolution. Long live reaganomics and leg warmers

This message was posted from my AppleII


Sure technology has advanced, but a 300E is still a 300E, no different then the Apple II pic you post.
How easy is it to install a touch pad screen on this item...
Just buy an I-pad...

Same for the 300E...one owns it because you appreciate the period engineeering...
The M103-12V can be made to go very fast and handle extremely well using period aftermarket performance parts.
Power output without internal work can equal the 6.0L-32V Hammer V8.


If you own junk, it will be junk, no matter what you do !
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  #19  
Old 06-05-2010, 06:40 PM
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Phil @ Peachparts still can get the non-resistor plugs. I put them in today, sharper throttle response.
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  #20  
Old 06-05-2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tilac1 View Post
Very funny. I've looked and found no US sources. Why pay int'l shipping? Don't be a dick.
Which plugs are you looking for in the US specifically?

6x T20EPU's shipped to me for $11.29
http://www.********.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=14&partnum=5031&a=FR14-5031-356

Additionally you wouldnt try to cramp a Intel Core i7 into that Apple II would you?

Use the correct part for your car and it will love you long time.
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
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  #21  
Old 06-05-2010, 09:05 PM
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Additionally you wouldnt try to cramp a Intel Core i7 into that Apple II would you?
Why the hell not?

http://gizmodo.com/5159104/mac-mini-inside-an-apple-disk-ii-case


It sounds like most people on here have no clue what the resistor does. It is completely irrelevant if the resistor is in the plug or wires or both. Just make sure at least 1 of the components has one.
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  #22  
Old 06-05-2010, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Why the hell not?

It sounds like most people on here have no clue what the resistor does. It is completely irrelevant if the resistor is in the plug or wires or both. Just make sure at least 1 of the components has one.
M.B. spent vast amounts of development dollars on their engines. I'm sure they know what they are doing with the specified components.

Not only do the leads have a 1Kohm resistance in the plug ends, the distributor cap also has resistance built in.

The original idea for have resistance in the leads was for suppression of interference for the vehicle electronic components - the ECU, OVP, FPR and even the radio. The EZL is a very delicate component that can be damaged just by losing the thermal paste holding it down to the fender.

M103 engines are getting over twenty years old. We see all sorts of posts in threads complaining about idling problems and performance problems for M103 engines. The plugs are part of the problems here.
M.B. have stated that resistor type plugs can be used (times have marched on - they have also specified plastic oil can be used, it was never available back in the days when the engine was designed).
Do not put wire only non resistive leads on the engine. If you can't source non resistor type NGK's just put resistor type in - leave the leads alone. Only use OEM or Beru leads, distributor cap and rotor.

Note that platinum, multi posted plugs and other exotic plugs have been known to cause idling problems in M103 engines (over time). Ordinary $1.50 NGK non resistance plugs should last a very long time. Putting $15.00 plugs into an engine that doesn't require it is a waste of money especially when they start playing up after a relatively short life.

Everyone knows that computers are fickle machines that require nice environments to keep optimal operation going. Laptops only lasts a few years because of the wear and tear and knocks they get. Normal computers are subject to the vagaries of power flucuatuions and spikes - that's why we have power filters, surge suppressors and U.P.S's.

Modern cars are computer controlled gadgets. Vehicle E.C.U.'s are subject to all sorts of weather conditions and to the vagaries of alternators, regulators and uneven power supply. There are many filters and associated electronic circuitry the manufacturers install in the vehicles to protect the E.C.U.s and other electronic control equipment.
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  #23  
Old 06-05-2010, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Why the hell not?

It sounds like most people on here have no clue what the resistor does. It is completely irrelevant if the resistor is in the plug or wires or both. Just make sure at least 1 of the components has one.
Well..not that you wouldnt want to buy you couldnt, as the apple ii wouldnt be able to interface with it and thus you would have wasted money on it.

Resistance is very important in electrical circuits. more of it is not a good idea especially in the case of the ignition system. The system was designed with a known value of resistance..adding to that would effect overall performance and longevity of all parts concerned.

On the topic of the platinum/irridium/etc types. My mechanic says they never ran well in these older cars. I'd never use them.
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #24  
Old 06-05-2010, 11:03 PM
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Very simple... Ohms law.... V = I x R (Voltage = Amps x Resistance)...

If voltage stays the same and you increase resistance in a circuit, amperage goes down. Less power and more stain on said electrical components to accomplish same result. If voltage stays the same and you decrease resistance in a circuit, amperage goes up. More power and more heat / strain on said electrical components.

Why screw with initial design that works when the correct parts are readily available and not too expensive. Just like putting 87 in a car that requires 91 just to save yourself approx $4.00 for a full tank fill up!

Has anyone even looked at an oscilloscope pattern of the different plugs and what it does to the coil and EZL when you have too much resistance in a circuit.
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2010, 12:28 AM
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Well I'll be sure to post up here when the the devil's own concoction of resistor NKGs and 87 octane finally leaves me on the side of the road. Going an 170k miles and counting. Don't hold your breath.
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  #26  
Old 06-06-2010, 06:18 AM
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Well said Ivanerrol. Too bad some folks here are always on "transmit" mode and so won't take the opportunity to learn anything. But then, these are the same ones who know better than the MB engineers how to make an MB run right, so there's little chance they'll be listening to anyone else either.
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  #27  
Old 06-06-2010, 01:21 PM
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I got the Bosch H9DC0 from Peachparts special order. Phil has always given me good service. ******** has the NGKs but shipped from the UK. I didn't think of getting the Denso brand, slipped my mind. Sounds like it would have been cheaper. Next time, thanks.
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2010, 04:01 PM
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Source for Beru: http://www.beruparts.com/main.sc
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  #29  
Old 06-07-2010, 07:13 PM
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I heard the F8DC4 works from some people, but others say it is not as it uses a different seat or something?

Can anybody here actually confirm 100% it is compatible? They sell them on amazon for $1.65/each. Dirt cheap and they are non-resistor copper core. Exactly what we need.

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