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#1
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When do you call it quits?
First I would like to say, I love my car - its a 95 C-280. I have had it since Feb of this year. Its got miles 275,000. Engine sounds fine. but we have a few things that will need repair>
Condensor has a hole in it so -No a/c. Repair will be $460.00 Lower control arm bushings need to be replaced. Flex discs also look scary a small oil leak needs a window regulator for passenger window and a small coolant leak was detected yesterday. Is it worth it to put the money into this? How long can this car last.? Honest opinions please. |
#2
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Honestly, you would probably come out ahead selling the car AS-IS, and saving the money on repairs. That is probably 2K worth of work you listed at a reputable shop. Sell it before any major, catastrophic repairs are needed.
You can get a similar vintage E-Class (W210 96-up) or (W124 95-down) with half the mileage. It is a buyers market. 3-4K tops will get you a very very nice E-Class. Going to an E will make you seriously doubt ever going back to any C-Class! At 275K, that car is pretty well used up. Things will start breaking/failing at an accelerated rate as you get closer to 300K. Yes, you could fix it and get another 50K out of it. But it's running on borrowed time IMO. ![]()
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#3
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The key to operating an old car is to keep up with it before it has a chance to run down to the point you describe.
Some months this is easy and some months it's hard, but if you let the least little thing go without attending to it, this is where you end up. It's a juggling act. You have to work at keeping all of the balls in the air at the same time. |
#4
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I too would sell the car. With that kind of mileage you are definitely due for some major expenses. I as well would consider an upgrade to a newer E-Class. The W210s from 2000-2002 were and still are very nice cars. Maybe not quite as durable or quite as well finished as the earlier W124, but still a lot of car for not too much money.
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1989 300CE |
#5
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If the oil and coolant leaks are minor, I'd probably put the money in it in hopes of getting another couple years out of it.
If the leaks are caused by a headgasket, I'd be more inclined to bail on it. Do the leak diagnosis first, then decide. How do you know the control arm bushings are shot? If the tires aren't wearing too badly and they are "average" condition, you could possibly hold off on those bushings and when it's time for tires, have the front end work and an alignment done all at the same time. Flex discs can look scary, that's fine, the determining factor is if they are really worn out or not. The front one is probably the only one that's needed. You can squeeze more miles out it yet if you want to and if you keep up on things. The list doesn't look all that bad, I've worked on newer cars with more than this wrong. Other things to consider are if there is getting to be a lot of body rust and the general appearance. Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#6
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sell it for parts or hang on to it for a parts car,look for another one,the mileage is getting up there,and with those repairs its not worth fixing,for another $2,000.00 you should be able to find a nice original 300 with lower miles.just my opinion. i found my car in florida with only 65k for under $5,000.00
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#7
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If you love the car, then how much money you "should" put into it becomes a very subjective matter.
I love my C36, which is essentially the same car but with a lot more horsepower and a much stiffer suspension. I got it when it was almost new with 4,600 miles on it and now it has 181k; it needs a TON of work, but no matter how much work it needs it's still way cheaper than buying a new one, and the new one might have just as many problems. I also have a W210 E320 and a W124 E320, and neither of them has the same character as the W202 - they are much larger and heavier, and they make a much different statement when you pull into a parking garage. The question for you is how perfect do you want your car to be. Minor fluid leaks are nothing - an old friend of mine once said "Cars are supposed to be wet on the bottom." Just make sure you check the levels every time you gas up and keep the levels within operating norms. An inoperable passenger window isn't the end of the world either, but the A/C fix will need to be done and it's going to be more expensive than you expect - depending on how long that hole has been in the system, there could be collateral damage to other parts. I'd budget $1,500. My advice is to lower your standards a bit and keep the car.
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Robert Fini '12 ML350 BlueTec, 100k '06 E320CDI (x2) '05 T1N Sprinter 2500/Pleasure-Way Plateau TS, 70k '97 C36AMG, 319k (son's) '94 E320T, 249k '93 190E Sportline LE, 168k (daughter's) '84 190E-2.3/5spd (Stage Rally Racer) '66 230 W110 Sedan (Barn Find, Vintage Racer build in progress) |
#8
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Time to cut it loose.... what if you fix it and the tranny goes in 6 months?
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k ![]() 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#9
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You have only had it 3 months. You couldn't be too in love. Any used car will be expensive if you pay someone else to do everything.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#10
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here's how i see it. new cars will always be more expensive...and they WILL get old, and WILL exhibit problems. it's just a matter of picking a car that you're willing to keep for the long run. I've picked picked mine and am fine with fixing whatever problems that might arise, even major ones. I know some repairs will seem expensive, but i'm pretty sure whatever that repair is will be a LOT cheaper than getting a newer car that will eventually break down and will need repairs.
cheapest route is to pick a diesel ![]() my picks: 87 300TD 95 S280... flood damaged...gutting everything and simplifying
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![]() 85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#11
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SELL
Quote:
2. As long as you keep putting several thousands of dollars into it a year - you can probably keep patching it together for quite a while. I don't know how many miles you drive a year - but 275,000 is already quite a bit on a gas engined car. Most of it's useful life is behind it. 3. I'd have already had ads running to get rid of it were it me.
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
#12
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93 300E. 203K miles. Recent body repair and paint, custom sound system, custom wheels and tires...but needed a tranny swap. Had an extra one in the garage, so I planned on keeping the car forever.
T-boned a Tahoe a few months ago and insurance paid me more than the car was worth to dump it. Took on a new perspective about investing a lot of $$$ on an old vehicle. From this point forward, I will buy an inexpensive, but well-kept vehicle, and get rid of it when the repairs exceed what I care to spend to keep said vehicle running. Besides, I pulled all of the goodies off the 300E before it was towed...stereo will find a new home in my daughter's car... ![]()
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
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