Over the years I have heard the debate about anti-seize paste, oil, grease or dry lug threads. I usually use a little Kroil on the threads if they are completely dry.

Most European Alloy Wheels call for 81ft lb. I always use a torque wrench when the vehicle is back on the ground but the 81 always seems to be a little loose to me so I creep it up to 90 where it feels right.

I know most tire shops don't bother unless you pester them to use a torque wrench. I have seen threads gooped up with all sorts of lub' and a lot dry.

So...any thoughts from the trenches ?


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Torque values are almost always quoted for dry, clean threads. Most don't recommend any kind of lubricant or other substance since that results in over tightening which can cause the fastener to fail usually catastrophically. By that I mean while driving not while mounting the wheel.

Of course, some people will swear (or worse) that they've been putting chicken fat on the threads for umpteen years without a problem.

Good luck.

For lubricated threads you will need to reduce the tightening torque, IIRC it is 20% reduction. MARK'S ENGINEERING HANDBOOK and many other sources have a lubricated fastener torque table, zinc plating is also a lubricant.

Lube on the threads is fine, I use Anti-Seize but different manufacturers will tell you different things, I believe that ALCOA recommends SAE30 on the threads for their wheels.

DO NOT LUBRICATE ANY OTHER PART OF THE WHEEL/HUB/BOLT ASSEMBLY THAN THE THREADS!! The ball-seat needs to be dry.

Also note that many vehicle and wheel manufacturers recommend checking wheel fastener torque at regular intervals, this becomes even more important when you've lubricated and thus prevented rust etc. from holding the threads tight.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Where did you find the info' on the dry ball or taper seat? I understand why...just never seen any instructions to that effect.



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I have seen that before also. The torque is based on the friction at the head. Do not lube the head. Just the threads. As was just said.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

That tidbit I've seen in several places, one source I remember is the ALCOA wheel guide (forged aluminum) for both hub-centric and stud-centric wheels.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

One can extend the question to anti-seize compounds, Anti-seize can act like a lubricant on threads.

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2010 ML350 Bluetec
2012 Mustang Convertible

Lug nuts for w124 are 110nm and I always put them on dry. Never had any issues.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

There's no "debate." Mercedes specifies wheel lug bolts are installed dry and that's the end of the story.

Make that "most Mercedes with 12 mm lug bolts." It's different for those with 14 mm lug bolts. Beginning with W211 this is E-class and above, and of course S-class have had 14 mm lug bolts for even longer.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Just an FYI on MB lug bolts - The standard 'shorty' bolts are 110 Nm but the longer 'Elegance' ones with the extended shank and the chrome cap are 150Nm. Of course, those are dry values.