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-   -   Central Locking Troubleshooting problem (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=279139)

les_garten 06-11-2010 10:22 PM

Central Locking Troubleshooting problem
 
I'm having problems with my locking system. I think most of my issues stem from a LOT of water in the floorboards for a long time.

I had a bad pump. I got a new "used" pump. This one has a white bottom instead of the black bottom like my original.

Don't know if that is a big issue or not.

I was running down the electrical diagnostics in this PDF:

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%2...sis/80-104.pdf

On page 3 there is an actuator check for the doors in the unlocked position. Mine has 1.7v in A and B and .07 v in position C.

Pretty much a fail.

My locks don't Lock/Unlock at all. The pump does not run at all.

Where would be the next place to look? I don't believe all 3 actuators went bad at the same time, so it's something Common to all three. I have >12 v at the 2 prong power connector.

locry 06-12-2010 02:56 PM

well it does say that the white/black bottom ones are not interchangeable...

to see if the pump does work try applying a positive or negative signal to one of the prongs... this should trigger the pump.

Not quite sure how it all works but i think the input signals from all 3 prongs have to "somehow" match for the pump to run...(i think) so if one of the contacts on one of the actuators gets stuck, sending a constant signal (+/-)... the pump won't run. at least that's how i understand it.

i did a workaround for this. i simply installed a keyless/alarm system... and eliminated the need for the contacts in the actuators... i disconnected them and wired one prong (IIRC) to receive a signal from the alarm ECU via a few relays.

les_garten 06-12-2010 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by locry (Post 2485453)
well it does say that the white/black bottom ones are not interchangeable...

to see if the pump does work try applying a positive or negative signal to one of the prongs... this should trigger the pump.

Not quite sure how it all works but i think the input signals from all 3 prongs have to "somehow" match for the pump to run...(i think) so if one of the contacts on one of the actuators gets stuck, sending a constant signal (+/-)... the pump won't run. at least that's how i understand it.

i did a workaround for this. i simply installed a keyless/alarm system... and eliminated the need for the contacts in the actuators... i disconnected them and wired one prong (IIRC) to receive a signal from the alarm ECU via a few relays.

Hmmm, I'll mull that over a little and try to assimilate it. Thanx!

mlozzi200478 06-12-2010 10:11 PM

yes first you need to make sure the vacum pump is operating,if its operating check all the lines at each door for leaks,then check the function of each vacum actuator,make sure all electrical connectors are tight,if all the locks are not responding to the key in the door,then it sounds like a bad vacum pump.

locry 06-13-2010 05:14 AM

first things first... check that the pump runs with the 3 prong connector disconnected

les_garten 10-21-2010 06:11 PM

OK,
Looping back around to this. I have replaced the PUMP. I can put the pump in place and "fire" the pump with + or - from the power pigtail to the 3 prong connector.

But when I put all the connections back in place, the pump will not run when any of the 3 locks are turned. Has to be something that is common to all three lock points.

I had a crumbly connector at the anti-theft connector at the pump and I remedied that.

I also removed the passenger seat and am looking for any issues under the seat but have not found any yet.

I also have easy access to the X-30, but nothing in there corresponds to what I was expecting to see for the lock wire points.

Basically stuck...

macdrone 10-22-2010 12:22 PM

If you have corrosion like I did and it sounds like you do wires leading to the door switches need to be checked. The wire to my drivers side door actuator under the kick panel drivers side was totally gone. 2 inches of new wire and tape and I was back in business. Also does your dome light not work and seatbelt warning flash alot? if so spin the fuses as corrosion from the old aluminum fuses can mess things up. I bit the bullit and spent 15 dollars and got all new copper ended fuses and cleaned the contacts and lots of issues are gone.

les_garten 10-22-2010 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macdrone (Post 2569780)
If you have corrosion like I did and it sounds like you do wires leading to the door switches need to be checked. The wire to my drivers side door actuator under the kick panel drivers side was totally gone. 2 inches of new wire and tape and I was back in business. Also does your dome light not work and seatbelt warning flash alot? if so spin the fuses as corrosion from the old aluminum fuses can mess things up. I bit the bullit and spent 15 dollars and got all new copper ended fuses and cleaned the contacts and lots of issues are gone.

Hi,
I replaced all the fuses to copper as well. No problems with any of the lights. The x-30 wires all look perfect.


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