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-   -   W124 Lock System Question (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=283635)

Ghoti 03-30-2013 03:49 PM

No worries now...my son totalled it and we moved on to a W211 wagon.

http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/o...psfbfea33a.jpg

http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps60e559d1.jpg

http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps1bce9a56.jpg

http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3d377844.jpg

stormyc88 03-30-2013 04:44 PM

Sorry for your loss :(

Ghoti 05-01-2013 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stormyc88 (Post 3122772)
Sorry for your loss :(

I'm 100% good with it. Sold that car for $900 and picked up a 2004 E320 Wagon. :D

Edmund 05-03-2013 02:48 PM

Haha I was reading the entire thread because Im pretty sure I have your solution until I got to the bit where you said the car is written off...Now I guess we will never know...
Between myself and my friends there are many W124's and they all have an option where you can set the central locking somehow to only unlock only the drivers door when unlocked using the key. When the engine is running the central locking operates all doors at the same time. This is a 'safety feature' that can be disabled and you probably enabled it by accident. Your description matches the functioning of this feature exactly.
I installed a remote system on my central locking so have never used this feature. It should be in the owners manual, if you dont have one look online.
Maybe someone else with a manual or knowledge of this feature can tell us how...

Jeremy5848 05-05-2013 11:34 AM

Fish--

What year is your 124? It's not listed in your signature.

The pump should work at all times (key in or out, engine running or not). This suggests that someone may have boogered your wiring. The pump should have power at all times from Fuse C (pin 3 of the rectangular connector at the pump should have a red/white wire and it should measure +12 Volts at all times.

Pushing or pulling one of the buttons (or turning a key in that door) not only locks/unlocks that door but switches a switch in the door that tells the pump to run, creating vacuum to lock all doors or pressure to unlock all doors. A round plug at the pump has three wires (blue=driver, green=passenger, yellow=trunk/tailgate). One of these wires could have broken where they go through the rubber accordion sleeve between the front doors and the A-pillars.

If you are losing pressure/vacuum you may have a bad diaphragm in one of the actuators. The fuel flap lock is often mentioned as a culprit. You can disconnect its line and test the actuator with a Mityvac to see if it leaks. Another option is to blank off that line (flap will no longer lock) and see if the system now works.

Many other options but try those first and report.

Jeremy


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