Hello All,
I've been trying to adjust my Bowden/kick-down cable, to the transmission. I've had some trouble recently with a surging idle after the car reaches operating temperature. I've searched for the subject, but have been unable to find a post that addresses my question. My shop manual is very vague and states "turn the adjusting screw until the tip of the finger is at the same height as the tip on the rocking arm"; I've done this to the point at which I think it's correct, but I'm still not sure. Can someone take a look at the pictures I've posted and see if it looks right, in that the tip of the "finger" is the same as the "height' of the rocking arm? Thanks in advance. I also plan on changing a few more components tomorrow due to a flickering ABS light, and a code for under/over voltage. The components I've already replaced, and/or cleaned have satisfied the DM for their corrasponding codes; just have 10 blinks left to go.

1994 Mercedes E320 Sedan, 174,670 miles
New wire harness, vacuum hose, camshaft position sensor, thermostat, intake air temperature sensor, replaced blower motor fuseable link with bladed fuse and weather resistant housing, recently cleaned AMM, ICV and ETA plate for carbon build-up; plan to install new OVP relay tomorrow, and maybe check ETA wiring if surging persists, I've already re-wired the three charred and crumbled wires near the oil filter housing.
Thanks again.

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your trans cable will not be your problem.the wiring to the ea and maybe the electronic accel itself is the most probable cause.

__________________
David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

Ive cured my surging idle on 94 320 by cleaning carbon off of throttle plate and cleaning throttle body where blade is, check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks , then check fuel pressure regulator , check signal
vacuum hose for fuel leaking into hose from p/r .

Thanks Guys, I've already cleaned the carbon off the throttle plate and blade, checked fuel pressure regulator etc., all good, thought I got all vacuum leaks, but now that you mention it, the "Y" tee at the intake manifold is old, and gave me a lot of grief. Though I thought I'd cured the massive leak I found there, only to have the surging resurface, quite suddenly, after having a perfect idle for a couple of days, I will look at it again. My original concern is the bowden cable adjustment, as I've hit adjustment points which cause my catconverter to smell, screwed out too far, but otherwise the car has excellent acceleration, & crisp shifting--screwing the adjustment in too far allows for "sloppy", "spongy" shifting and lack of power. Oh, did I mention my fuel economy SUCKS; I have not replaced the OVP relay yet, it rattles upon inspection and, well, there's the code. Thanks again.