installing bearing races
 

would it be easier to install the bearing races if i heated up the hub, say in the oven at a very low temp. and put the races in the freezer. anyone find this a useful method?

They are a press fit but not exceptionally tight. You'll be fine to just hammer them in at room temp. I do like to use a flat tipped punch to flatten out any burrs created by removing the race before I install new ones. I'd think that more important than messing with heating or cooling parts.

I use the old bearing race and a block of wood to get the new bearing race in evenly.

i have brass punches for removing the old ones. was familiar with the idea of using the old races to press the new one in. thanks guys.

well just call me stupid. as i've never done wheel bearing before.. any tips on getting the old races out? my brass punches are obviously no match !! :)

The trick is using a tool that makes enough contact during the first few blows to actually unseat it. Once you get the race unseated it gets much easier to tap the rest of the way out. I've got a 1/2 inch wide flat cold chisel that I have beveled the tip such that it has the profile of a shovel. It gets good purchase on the small lip that you have to work with.

i have tried screwdriver, steel punches, sockets. i'm out of options to get my bearing races out. i even put the hub in the oven to heat it up and tried to pound them out. i've ruined all my punches by rounding off the flat edges.. guess i just have to find a shop that's willing to press them out for me.

Heat. You need more of it. I had to use mapp gas.

Although I don't promote "Hong Kong Freight",

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html

Most local auto parts places have loaner tool sets you can borrow or rent.

Use the proper tool for the proper job.

thanks Mike. I have no problem using tools from HF. If I was a professional mechanic using them everyday, of course i'd want a much higher quality but HF tools generally work fine for my occasional use.

I saw that set yesterday when I was there, but wondered how they would work on the inner race? the diameter of the hub in the middle is smaller than the diameter of the inner race so there wouldn't be a way to get the tool in that i can see.

i took my hub to local auto parts store where i buy a lot of stuff and the manager who races cars and motorcycles beat them out for me. i was just being too timid with my hammer blows. hopefully i'll have learned well enough to do the other side myself.

Use a punch to drive them out because you're not worried about harming the old races. Installing the new ones are a different story. Using a standard punch and hammer, it is easy to nick or deform the race during installation. Brass punches, not so much a problem. Getting them seated evenly is a snap using the driver set.

i used the old races to hammer the new ones back in. heated the hub in the oven and put the races in the freezer. getting the races in was about the easiest part of this whole job for me!

now i can't get the hub cap on to save my life. if i hit very hard i'm going to dent it up beyond useable..

The best way to remove old bearing races is with the hub off, weld a bead around the inside of the race. Turn it over and let it bang against the concrete and it will most likely fall out. If after the bead it doesn't fall out, it won't take much more than a lick with a wet noodle to get it out.

The hub's dust cap? 2" ID black iron pipe fits over the end and contacts the rim perfectly, 2"ID PVC fits well also after you remove enough material on the inside edge to allow the dust cap's radius to clear it. A 6" long section of pipe also helps you get it lined up as well as allowing you to use something to tap it into place. The cap is 52 mm at its rim!

MB actually has a tool specifically designed to make short work of removing and installing these hub dust caps, probably not worth the price for most but a nice solution if you do this job frequently and can find one used!

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...CapTool001.jpg

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...CapTool002.jpg

The three "claws" open by rotating a spring loaded cam wheel, then the slide hammer feature allows a tap or two, to remove it; re-installing it the slide hammer makes it a cinch!

i cleaned up the old one and put it back on. it wasn't damaged at all and went on much easier. i think the aftermarket cap may be just a hair too tight.