Looking at a 1986 300E, around 100K miles. Owner says it wont go into fourth gear, but will drive fine in first 3 gears. What say you all?
Everything else on the car is in great shape. AC and heat, power everything including cruise. MB-Tex is still really good.
Asking $500. If relatively easy to fix, I'll pick up on Thursday.
Help me diagnose the shifting problem.
Thanks.

Chuck

This seems like a real long shot, but is it possible that the owner isn't aware that the car starts off in second gear, so he's thinking it never makes it to fourth?

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1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't

Settle it by asking the owner what the rpm is at 60mph (I don't know what it should be, sorry). I'm not sure if shifter bushings could give you enough play to indicate "D" but actually be in "3". If that's the case, would lever in "N" put you in "D" (4th)????

Alternatively, for $500 plus a rebuilt trans you'd have a nice driver.

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Hanno
'79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years)
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion
'02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'05 E500 Wagon

Chuck, when you test drive this car move the gear shift from "D" to "2" and back to "D" while at a stop light. That will make the transmission start out in 1st gear. Count the shifts to see if the transmission has a 4th gear. As mentioned the owner may not be aware of 2nd gear start when the transmission is left in "D" all the time. It pays to read the Owner's Manual from cover to cover.

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Fred Hoelzle

Thanks guys. The current owner says that the revs are extremely high when driving in "final" gear. He said he wouldn't take it on the interstate. He thinks the car has 3 gears then overdrive so, to his thinking, 4 forward gears. I didn't bother trying to explain the 4 forward gear - no overdrive situation.
I've heard of not shifting to 4th gear in the 722 but no definitive explanation. I need to decide on this car by tomorrow (Thursday) so any other help would be greatly appreciated.
On another note, is a new headgasket at 100K miles a given, or has anyone avoided this repair, either by luck or diligence in some way?

if everything else works and you have the time to play with it, buy it. I did that with my 95 e320. Change the fluid in the tranny a couple times to clean it out, and then drive between changes. still slipping? try lucas stop slip, still slipping? rebuild it. you'd still only be in it for 2500 bucks MAX.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

or buy her as a safeway car, no go onto autobahn.
I bought a 190 2.6 not long ago, it didnt change anything other than 2nd. drove her home in 50-60 km for 50 miles it was not fun. it turned out the governor gear was cracked so the governor does not spin at all, is a centrifuge thing opens up on speed.

my tranny guy said maybe he could by pass the vale body so it is going to be a semi auot start on D or 2nd as where u put it. Is workable soultion, as many smart cars have semi auto, to make it paddle shift is not easy as there is linkage. the gears alone is over 100 some, is not a lot if to own the car for a long time.
anyways i traded car with my tranny mechanic he gave me a 190e 2.3 with no heater i routed the hot watr thru the a/c core. it has 1 way valve if u do it water goes in from small pipe out the thick one. or u get no hot water thru.
plus a few little things. the cold start valve is not sorted out yet, we hooked up to the starter trigger as when turn starter the c/s spray. is ok when cold but when hot there will be over gas and flood, need to part throttle to let more air in.

but now is sitting as i have a couple more wheels to play with. will get there on the timely sequence.

if the tranny has to come out is going to cost afew bucks, or change her yourself go find a decent one.
taking her out is not easy a changing the light bulb though.

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O.K. Talked to owner to get clarification. Car will move when manually shifted from 2 to 3. When shifted from 3 to D it will not upshift into 4th. Valve bodies and pressure regulators are being floated as possible culprits.
Any other thoughts? I'm really liking this 300E and will pull the trigger if the worst case scenario is not that bad. I know, I know: What do I expect from a $500 car? Apparently a lot.
But I've been wanting a W124 for a long time.

Perhaps the kickdown switch behind the gas pedal is stuck down? Happened in my w126 diesel, though it made it rev high through all the gears

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Chuck, pay for a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) by a MB-trained tech who knows that vintage MB automobile. A knowledgeable tech should be able to quickly diagnose what's wrong with that 1986 300E and give you a ballpark cost to make it right.

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Fred Hoelzle

that PPI probably cost 2-300. By then u almost can go look for a normal one.
when buying a few hundred $ car, u need to run a very tight ship, every $ u spend could be gone forever. and save the mulla for more pressing items.
Is not the case of rebuild her to fact spec.

Try the Holy holy Lucas trans oil, as many had swore by that.

Many yrs ago my Audi 5000 suffer fromt he same fate, didnt want to go into 3rd. I drove 10 miles to work, the first 6-7 will only stay in 2nd.
Then suddenly it will pop into 3rd. Those were the pre-Lucas days.


U can always go to different tranny shop to ask for opinion, some being more hard up for biz could do a repair for less mulla, and some not hurting will sell u an outright rebuild.
Valve body coming out is less $$ than whole trans coming out, your issues could be a stuck spring, valve in the VB.

I had 1 toyota camry vee 6. that when cold if i leave her in OD she will shift into 3rd with no power, as if in neutral, if I hit the OD lock out button she will run nicely in 3rd. If i do that for few miles she will engage if I unlock the OD.

In the end i decided to sell her because of the heater doesnt want to let heat comes out. They have a reverse monojet valve than MB.
MB when no power going thru the hot water will keep passing, whereas this toyo will stop all hot water, as car were designed for Japan & tropical area so better no heat than scorching heat!

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