stuck bosch sparkplug boot
 

Hi,

I have changed my sparkplugs many times. Last year I installed a new set of bosch sparkplug wires. Removing the wire/boot was a breeze with the old set but one pain on the neck with the new set.

Two months ago or so I was able to remove the first three sparkplug boots (300E) damaged the third boot when trying to remove it. (Basically the inner plastic was so stuck to the plug that when pulled out the plastic came outward from the metal casing.

After that happened I was so bummed out that I didn't try changing the other three plugs.

Below is a picture of my sparkplug boot metal casings.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512BTSYC70L._SS500_.jpg

Any suggestions on how to go about loosening them up? I need to finish the job and replace the other three sparkplugs as the car is starting to run rough, changing the first three plugs actually help but I definetely need to replace the last three.

I read somewhere else that applying some WD40 externally may soften the boot plastic and make it easier to remove. Seems like it can be a challenge since the boot is inside the metal jacket. - Any other suggestions, Any idea of what tool may work with this specific issue?

Thanks

Can only tell you how to prevent it unfortunately. Can you make a tool to pull it away at the bottom?

300E, don't know of any tool that will help with your stuck spark plug boots. Try turning each stuck boot before attempting to pull it off. In the future apply a light coating of dielectric grease to the inside of the boot before installation.

Prefer Beru spark plug wires over Bosch.

I use a special pliers, makes it very easy.

Rob
http://www.xs4all.nl/~pruijt/puller.jpg

Prevention
 

Prevention:
Apply Dielectric Spark Plug, Boot And Connector Grease when installing spark plug wires..
http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&tbs=isch:1&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&oq=&gs_rfai=&q=Dielectric%20Spark%20Plug%20Boot%20And%20Connecto r%20Grease




.

Those pliers look interesting, something from a James Bond movie?
I have tried several types of pullers, but couldn't get them down the plug hole far enough - those might do it though.

Over the years I have learned to warm the engine up a bit before pulling on the boots, this seems to help a lot. Same with removing stuck threads on the plugs, they seem to come out easier when warm.
Best way I found to pull on them is grab the metal part by hand and pull/push in a very straight line. The pushing-back motion seems to help loosen them up, sorta rocking them in-out.

But, get that dialectric grease on them next time.

Oh, you do know that the wires just unscrew from the boots, at least on the original wire sets. If you break a boot, and have an old spare, you can screw the new wire right into the old boot.

DG

Answer
 

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20puller&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20pliers&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20removal%20tool&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20tool&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

Holy Cow Hunter - makes my teeth hurt.

DG

Thank you, I was able to remove the rest of the spark plug wires with 45deg pliers, barely using the tips to grasp the boot and twist a little. I used the grease when I first installed the cable set but I suspect when the test only (smog) shop worked on the car some months later, they might (or perhaps I did not put enough grease) not have added some - hard to tell.

One thing I noticed when I was able work on the remainder sparkplugs is that the one cable that had the inner plastic sticking out, seems to not have been making full contact with the spark plug.. upon removing that cable again... I noticed there was white dust around the inner metal casing, the top of the sparkplug and the inner porcelain? connector of the cable? the inner plastic slipped off as well.

I believe there must have been some arcing happening inside. Trimmed one end portion of the inner plastic sleve so It would fit since the length had increased due to it being streched and wrapped the metal boot externally with electrical tape (in case it was arcing externally).

Car has been running rough since then, I suspect a new cable set is needed. (granted the car has other issues too being 230k+)

I obviously need a new cable.. whichs means new set. Is there a way to test if I may need a new distributor cap? and how hard is it to take off? lengthy process? I now live on an apartment and cannot take too long fixing a car per se, also extremely living on a very tight budget so I must try to test and be sure before replacing any part.

Thanks

think, remove the black cover to access the distributor cap. Use an allen wrench to remove the distributor cap and inspect the condition of the terminals inside the cap and the distributor rotor arm too. Both are wear items that should be replaced every 30,000 miles. At a minimum clean any deposits off the distributor cap terminals and the distributor rotor arm before reassembly.

It will be easier to clean up the distributor rotor if you remove the 3 allen head cap screws, and lightly filing the rotor arm.

The spark plug boot pliers work
 

I use them myself. There is however, a purpose-made MB factory special tool for pulling the boots. I looks like an open end wrench with a bend at the business end. You work it under the boot end and lift or pry up to pop the boot off. Sorry, I don't have a picture of it but I'm sure someone does. Check the "TOOLS" catalog on this site.

If you have aluminum cylinder head, be careful about unscrewing the spark plugs while the engine is too warm.

That tool is a Hazet 2771 Valve Adj. Wrench (MB Part No. 110-589-01-01-00). It is essentially a 17mm open end wrench with a slight offset on the handle. The wrench engages the last ridge on the boot and with a prying action pulls it straight off. It works great on the M112 where there is little clearance for a pair of 'boot pliers'. Not sure if it's applicable to other engines.

The ignition wire set is not original, I purchased it at Napa auto parts (BOSCH) #09146 - and I didn't know about the boot being replaceable.

Looking at the shop here, it seems they do sell just the sparkplug connector - http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1631473&itempk=77570&mfr=Bosch&weight=0.12 - perhaps I can just buy this, instead of the whole set. hmmm

Yes
 

That is a good option if the wire is not damaged.

I am going to replace the whole wire set (even If I could just replace one boot), just to rule that out, and also install a new set of sparkplugs. (New BOSCH #09146 and a set of H9DC0 sparkplugs - sparkplugs I have been using all these years).

I may not check the distributor cap just yet (mainly because I will be replacing the wireset away from home and dealer (since that process will take me at least 1 or 2 hours).

I figure once I replace wireset/new plugs, I can see how the car runs, and proceed to check the distributor cap/rotor if it still runs rough.

My issue right now is the car has trouble starting (need to press gas as soon as it starts otherwise it dies) but once its warm, it starts just fine. There are days when the car starts and if I am not quick to press gas, or press too much car dies and then it wont start at all, but the next day car usually starts - (cold weather may also be playing a part) --

Note: Most days I hardly drive the car, so now I am trying to warm up the car everyday regardless of me needing to drive it or not - and so far so good - Tue it didnt start, but wed/thu/fri it did.)

Backtracking for some historical info...
On Dec 24 night, I ran almost out of gas (I think this added to the trouble), and in the past two weeks or so I added some seafoam to the gas tank (about 75% of can to 3/4 of a gas tank). Still on that tank. Tomorrow's trip to my family place should give it some sustain 55-60mph drive.. a chance for the seafoam / gas tank to run its remainder got 1/4 of tank left. Banking on this too to help.



RE: dist cap
Right now, I am afraid to remove the distributor cap since I will be doing the work away from the dealer - figured once the cables are replaced.. if car still runs rough, has trouble starting.. then I can check the dist cap at home, (will probably not take as long to remove the wires at that end.. and remove the cap to check it (I could probably get away with doing that in my apt parking spot).




How do you remove the black plastic cover? I am looking at 15-3010, I guess the black plastic cover is called the screening cap. I see two top allen screws.. but do not know where the bottom screw located at?

Is the screening cap and distributor cap held by the same three screws? (I guess so).

Does anybody know the size of the three external (screening cap) socket screws? and the size of the ones that hold the rotor?

Do you suggest I buy the follower (Is this the part where the rotor attaches to)? is the follower also attached by a screw to the camshaft?

Also, the sealing washer and o-ring.. does that go bad, should I also purchase those?

Since I have not replaced / removed the dist cap, I am afraid I may pull it apart and maybe something will break (maybe I just worry too much) but just want to be as safe as possible (If I do proceed with this).

Overall, the goal here is that the car needs to be smog, but if the car starts /runs better without touching the dist cap, then I would just leave as is for the time being.

In general I do not drive the car much, maybe 3-4k this last year, mainly short trips to the grocery store and a few longer trips to the next town maybe once a month. Car has been mostly parked.. which I figure may actually not be helping it.

think300E, strongly recommend that you remove the distributor cap and inspect the condition of the terminals before doing any other work. Scrape away any thick deposits on the terminals, or replace the distributor cap ... same for the distributor rotor. Buy a new large O-ring for inside the distibutor cap since over time it gets dry/brittle.

Distributor cap screws are 5mm and the rotor are 3mm. Removal is straightforward with the most difficult part being the removal of the spark plug wires from the cap. Each terminal on the cap is numbered for the corresponding cylinder (1 thru 6, front to back).

The black plastic cover has a tab on either side that snaps into place to secure the cover. Gently pull the tab out on one side and the cover should release and lift off.

Thanks Ferdman,

The new wireset and new sparkplugs did make a difference, did the work on Saturday, and Sunday the car started right up.

I didn't check the distributor cap because I didn't have the time nor the correct size tools to remove those screws.

However, I have ordered a new distributor cap / rotor (to arrive on Wed) and will get a new O-ring from the dealer, then just replace them, once I get the correct allen keys.

I cannot locate all of my receipts (I moved about a year ago - I am sure I will eventually find them), the only receipt I have located that shows dist/rotor replacement was more than 30k miles (thinking that maybe it has not replaced in a while, I will just do it).


Question: how do you measure torque for the rotor screws, as well as the dust cover screws? What tool can I use? I have a very large torque tool I use for the sparkplugs but I dont think I have room between the fan/radiator and the screws.

think300E, for small screws I snug them up being careful not to overtighten them. While I use a torque wrench for lug bolts and other critical bolts I do screws by feel based on years of DIY experience.

What tool do you use to pull the cables at the distributor end?

I used the 45deg pliers but It was a challenge to pull them off (probably it wont be so bad to pull them off again since I just recently installed the wireset and added new fresh dialectric grease.

I've never had too much of an issue pulling wires off at the distributor cap end. As long as you are grabbing the entire length of the plug with a firm grip, you can pull as hard as necessary without worrying about damaging the plug end. I'd say you have more of a risk doing damage pulling with pliers than your fingers. Now for pulling the wires off the spark plug ends those special pliers do come in handy every now and then.

A good rule of thumb I've learned for torque on non-critical and often non published torque areas is bolt size. Smaller the bolt head size, the smaller the torque required.

think300E, use your hand to turn the ignition wire boots on the distributor cap terminals before attempting to pull them off. Engine heat causes the boots to bond to the terminals.

Ferdman, the distributor cap and rotor very much needed to be replaced. I am glad I finally was able to do so.

Bottom hex screw was a challenge to remove because I was not able to insert/lineup allen key, until I figured out to use the long end (instead of the short end, that I used for the top screws). Seems logical, but being my first time doing this it was not apparent at first.

Does the car need to be driven for X miles in order for the the onboard computer to adjust timing? does it build historical information? or is that an instant process, instant adjustment as the car is running?

I recall reading somewhere (a few years ago) something about running the car for 100 miles or so to reset the error codes or something like that (or to generate new codes if they were cleared), not sure if the same is applicable to the EZL module.

When I started the car after replacing the distributor cap/rotor it started rough, but subsequent starts seem smoother.

think300E, I'm unaware of the need to do anything to reset the computer. I simply replace the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs and I'm done. You should notice an immediate improvement in engine performance.

The computer and mechanical fuel injection system on these cars are stupid simple, it doesn't really learn anything per say compared to modern cars. There's no resetting necessary.

Thank you for the replies.

Currently I have the CD Manual from MBZ and also using the index files from Steve Nervig. http://web.mac.com/dakota/Mercedes/Indexes.html

Btw, if you do not have the index, it is priceless.. a better way to navigate the electronic manual (specially for us new DIY). Plus additional resources.


He has included a fault code manual and while reading it, in page #8 I noticed the following paragraph.

This paragraph appears at the bottom of the page, topic being (Check Engine Light (MIL) Diagnosis.

Under subtopic Mixture Adaptation:
The engine control module automatically performs a mixture adjustment. The degree of correction is calculated constantly and stored in KAM (Keep Alive Memory) RAM. The self-adaptation is performed at idle and under partial load. Maximum correction towards rich or lean is 25%. After reapir work is performed, the engine control module will automatically adapt itself again after approx. 10 trips. After eliminating a malfunction or after trial installation of an engine control module from another vehicle, the self-adaptation feature must be reset to its mean value.

(This is not where I originally read the info - interesting that I found it here again).


I have another issue that has appeared off/on over the last half year.
I will create a separate post for that.