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  #31  
Old 02-28-2011, 12:05 PM
Rebe
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brentsmith was checking, if you could take a breather from the maintenance, and maybe post a couple 2 or three photos of the 300e. I have never seen a Mercedes with 270K + miles on it before.

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  #32  
Old 03-05-2011, 03:07 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Replaced front struts and steering damper

Yesterday, I replaced the original front struts and the steering damper. The steering damper was shot and easy to replace. The front struts were straightforward, but I'm still sore from breaking the mounting bolts and re-torquing the replacements. Along with the M-B Chassis manual, the DIY article was a huge help. Now that all of the dampers and struts are replaced, the change in the ride and steering of the old Benz is amazing.

It's raining here this weekend, but I'll get some photos soon.

Brent Smith
1986 300E
2003 530i
2003 Boxster S
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  #33  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:10 PM
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Great post - can use help and pictures...

I am in a very similar boat - I have had my 1989 300E since 1992 when I bought it from the original owner with less than 50K mi. It now has 204k miles and is driven by my son at school and since the car has sentimental value to him he does not want to get rid of it regardless of the cost to maintain it so I have taken to helping him maintain it. I am going to change the front struts to Bilsteins with the strut mounts. I could use your help because I'm really confused with all the posts that say you need a spring compressor and then there are others that say you don't need it it can be done with using a car jack and jack stands without killing yourself.. How did you do it and any instructions would be very helpful.. Also, if you have detailed steps to change the differential fluid I would like to do that also, - btw, how long did each of these jobs take you in terms of hours spent?
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  #34  
Old 04-10-2011, 04:08 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Front struts and differential

1. Front struts - I used a second jack (instead of the spring compressor). It worked fine. All you need to do is raise it slightly--not enough to compress it. The best resource is the W124 Front Strut Replacement DIY article on this site. Make sure that you have all of the right tools and then just take your time.
2. Differential Fluid - My differential has 14mm hex filler and drain screws. Make sure it is warm, then remove the filler first, then the drain. There are several ways to fill it; I detailed how I did that in a previous post.

Last edited by brentsmith; 04-10-2011 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Corrected hex screw size
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  #35  
Old 04-10-2011, 04:20 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Checked oil use rate

It seems that I'm using a quart of oil every 600 miles -- not 300-400 like I said in my first post. I checked it by:
1. Reset the trip odometer when the low oil light first comes on.
2. Add a quart of oil (I did this 1/2 quart at a time, but it doesn't really matter.)
3. The next time the low oil light comes on, read the odometer.

That's still quite a bit. After cleaning the engine a while back, I can see oil weeping out of the front top timing chain cover. I bought the camshaft seal and cover gasket, so I'm going to do that next along with replacing the ignition parts. Hopefully, it will reduce the oil use a bit.
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  #36  
Old 07-04-2011, 04:53 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Arrived at 270k

I finally hit 270k miles. I just performed the following work:
1. Resealed the upper camshaft cover. The DIY article on this site was a huge help. As noted in the article, I used Hylomar sealant and it worked like a charm. My 86 300E had a 6mm hex on the rotor drive (instead of the Torx noted in the article). Also, it took some gentle persuasion to remove the rotor drive from the camshaft.
2. While doing the above job, I replaced the valve cover gasket.
3. Replaced the distributor rotor, cap, Oring, spark plugs (HR9DC+) and plug wires.
4. Replaced the air cleaner filter and some vacuum hoses.
5, Changed oil (Mobil I 15W50) and filter.

I still need to replace the transmission filter and fluid and flush the brake fluid. I probably should replace the valve stem seals, but I am waiting to see how much fixing the cam cover leak helped.

All in all, the car is running great!

Brent
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  #37  
Old 07-04-2011, 09:01 PM
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Location: Elk Grove, Ca
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Repairs

What is it worth to fix up an old car? That is up to you!

I just replaced my center/drag link, steering damper, transmission and motor mounts. I cannot believe how well the car handles and how quiet everything is now! I cannot even hear my engine or vibration at idle anymore! The struts and shocks checked out OK on my ride of 115K.
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  #38  
Old 07-05-2011, 12:29 AM
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Motor mounts made a very nice difference in mine as well...can't feel a thing now! Not that hard to replace either.
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  #39  
Old 07-05-2011, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big dog 2 View Post
What is it worth to fix up an old car? That is up to you!

I just replaced my center/drag link, steering damper, transmission and motor mounts. I cannot believe how well the car handles and how quiet everything is now! I cannot even hear my engine or vibration at idle anymore! The struts and shocks checked out OK on my ride of 115K.
x2! I test drove a ton of cars this weekend (considering trading my 300E in) and none of them could even come close to the ride quality of my 300E, even after 100k miles. Unfortunately the economy is forcing some of us to downsize . To be fair, none of the cars I drove were above 30k new, but still...after 20 years the w124 reigns supreme.
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  #40  
Old 07-09-2011, 11:48 AM
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even buying a lower mileage car can be a crapshoot- if the car has been abused or never maintained that's typically about the time things start really getting expensive for a bit- Buying a Benz in that mileage range be prepared to spend some money on upkeep initially- of course if you rely on a shop and have to pay labor hours that can mean all the difference between being cost effective or foolish.

I have a C36 that just hit 160K on it, gonna run this sucker until it's destroyed. Interior (sans wood) still looks new, exterior just got painted, HG and TB done by previous owner, and since my ownership (134k) it's eaten the Guibos, MAF, regeneration valve- and I changed the crankshaft position sensor and did lower control arm bushings and struts.

My car burns zero oil and everything works except high beam flash, and the seat heaters.

Compared to having car payments the $$$ spent is nothing- I'm not gonna finance a Kia for instance when I can keep this going.

Kudos to Brent Smith for doing what he does.

rjp
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  #41  
Old 09-09-2011, 02:22 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Question 300E Cold Start Blues

My 1986 300E has a cold start problem like many I've read about in this forum. First start in the morning (or after it sits a few hours) is difficult. I can start it only by holding my foot down on the accelerator pedal while cranking. It catches pretty quickly, then I have to carefully keep the RPMs at 1000-1500 for about 15 seconds and it will then hold a low idle while it warms up. The idle speed when warm is about 700, 600 in Drive. Power seems okay.

At this point, I'm ready to buy and replace the EHA. Every thing else I find seems to be okay:
* the dual engine temperature sensor (rear of engine) has the correct resisatnce on both legs and the wiring is fine to both computers.
* the OVP relay and fuse are fine (replaced a year ago)
* voltage is getting to the cold start valve
* idle control actuator resistance is 8 ohms (seems reasonable) and it is getting voltage to it.
* repaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor a few months ago.
* All of the vacuum and air hoses seem intact and I am getting pretty good vacuum.

Anything else I should try before I get an EHA on eBay?

Thanks.
Brent Smith
1986 300E 273k miles
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  #42  
Old 09-09-2011, 04:23 PM
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You can also look at it this way. You know what you have done on your car. You know what is working well and what is not. If you bought a new car, how much a month would that car payment be? If you bought another used car, what could go wrong that you don't know about? I break it down into what I might make for payments over the next few months if I have to pay for repairs on it (talking about a car with payments and not another used $1500.00 car). That value along with the low insurance and solidness (word?) of these cars, might make it worth someone to fix up and repair. If I can get another 6-12 months out of mine with just regular maintenance, I'm a happy camper! It rides and drives great
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  #43  
Old 09-09-2011, 04:29 PM
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Brentsmith...I replaced my EHA with a new one and it definitely improved my starting. However, you will need to adjust the Air Mixture ratio or at least measure it to make sure you are not rich or too lean. Also, replace the sensor (if you have one on that year) on the air intake housing between the grill and the air filter housing. I have one on my '91 that was causing start and idle issues.
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  #44  
Old 09-09-2011, 05:21 PM
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Thanks, SPTT. I believe I do have a temperature sensor on the air intake. I will check it too. Did you buy a new EHA unit or used?

Thanks.
Brent
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  #45  
Old 09-09-2011, 06:21 PM
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Reply to SPTT - I checked and I do not have the air intake temperature sensor. There is a plug where it should be. M-B must have added it after 1986. Also, I see where you bought a new EHA.

Thanks again.
Brent

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