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  #1  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:43 PM
Dustin.'s Avatar
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Considering buying a 1990 300E. Need help!

I am considering purchasing a 1990 300E, however I don't really know much about these cars.

It has 95K on the odometer and generally seems to be well maintained. Asking price is $2700 obo. Is that a fair price?

Everything is working aside from the original stereo.

How reliable are these models? Engine or transmission reliability?

Any issues I should look for when I go check it out?

What kind of maintenance issues would I be looking at should I buy this car?

Here are a couple of photos from the ad:





Thanks for the help!
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:49 PM
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Can't be a 1990 model - wrong upholstery and body cladding - better have a look at the title.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:58 PM
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll check the title when I go look at the car.

Would the interior and body trim be indicative of a car older than 1990, or newer?
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  #4  
Old 04-08-2011, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin. View Post
Thanks for the heads up. I'll check the title when I go look at the car.

Would the interior and body trim be indicative of a car older than 1990, or newer?
The body cladding is 86 to 89 - MB Tex was standard and leather optional. 1990 got new body cladding, the 300E had leather standard, the 260E had tex. But no one would change the body cladding - it has to be a 86 to 89 300E or 260E.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2011, 03:02 AM
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That's kind of a generalization, when the R12 system on a 20 year old car goes south, most people opt to update/convert it to an R134 system rather try to maintain the old. There are lots of great threads on this forum regarding what needs to be done for a conversion and whether one would want undertake it themselves or have it done.
Lot's of threads about the pros and cons of keeping the old system intact and using alternative refrigerants. There's too many details to cover it here and I don't feel qualified to elaborate anyway.

Same with the head gasket, while I feel qualified to discuss that, I already have in previous threads as well as many others here. Best to just search for them.

Do a Forum Search on "head gasket" (M103,W124), select "search only titles"

Similarly, search: "Air Condition"
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2011, 03:28 AM
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Here's a couple threads regarding m103 head gasket modifications. There's tons of threads here regarding M103 head gasket jobs in general.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258037&highlight=head+gasket

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=288624&highlight=head+gasket
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  #7  
Old 04-09-2011, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanyel View Post
The body cladding is 86 to 89 - MB Tex was standard and leather optional. 1990 got new body cladding, the 300E had leather standard, the 260E had tex. But no one would change the body cladding - it has to be a 86 to 89 300E or 260E.
Right. Unless it's been modified in some way, it's an '89 model. You can tell that from the ashtray cover door. It's the spring-loaded type rather than the pull-down type used through MY 1988. The other way to tell the '89 is that the radio antenna, when fully extended, angles to the rear about 10 degrees; earlier models had a vertical antenna. To the OP, check the 10th digit of the VIN. I'm betting it's a 'K' for MY 1989.
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  #8  
Old 04-09-2011, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanyel View Post
The body cladding is 86 to 89 - MB Tex was standard and leather optional. 1990 got new body cladding, the 300E had leather standard, the 260E had tex. But no one would change the body cladding - it has to be a 86 to 89 300E or 260E.
Good eyes - I didn't even see the body molding.

As far as the other posts, I'm not sure a headgasket should be considered as a 100k event. I haven't heard them being that much of a nuisance if driven correctly (like not overheated) but each car obviously is different. The M104 of later w124 chassis has more of a reputation for blowing the HG than the M103. I would also disagree on the R134 conversion. R12 is getting more difficult to find, but if you can get a competent shop to recharge R12, or if you want to tackle it yourself an EPA certification is about $20 and consists of an open book "exam". The reason I advise not to go into an R134 conversion is because a lot of folks report (including me) that R134 conversions simply are not as effective as the R12 or systems designed for R134 in the first place--not to mention the labor and time expenses of changing out all the seals. Of course the buyer can consider this based on preference, but I would personally not consider the lack of R134a to prevent a sale or that big of a deal in general. The rest of that post is spot on, especially with the transmission health, good advice!
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  #9  
Old 04-09-2011, 10:13 PM
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I appreciate the second opinion regarding the R134. I have a 91 300E with non-working air. I've been given opinions both ways as far as how to approach restoring it.
My daughter's 190E (bought last November) was converted to R134 by the PO.
They told us it just needed to be re-charged, which translated to me that there's a leak somewhere. I'll find out the virtues, or not, of a converted system this summer when I have to deal with it.

I'm sticking with my head gasket opinion though. I've seen a ton of them and read about 10 times more on the forums. My 300E is on it's second new head gasket (first one done at a dealership, second by me). I look at most every E-class I see for sale and without exaggeration half of them either are near un-drivable or show the classic signs. A few blatantly bad ones claimed not to know it. One of them had globs of brown sludge in the coolant tank and said he wasn't aware of it. I don't see how, the cooling system was completely fouled. Another guy, car almost as bad as the former, actually got mad at me when I pointed it out saying I was just trying to get a lower price.
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by deanyel View Post
Can't be a 1990 model - wrong upholstery and body cladding - better have a look at the title.
Looks like my 300E from the pictures aside from the tex seats. Can you be more specific? Engines are very reliable, ask the owner if it burns any oil - the valve seals have a tendency to start wearing out and can burn oil between changes. You'll want to look for normal maintenance like filter changes, spark plugs, stuff like that. The transmission should last between 150-200k at least, if it shifts into gear quickly it should be generally ok, look also for a trans fluid flush and filter change (factor that into price if it hasn't been done). Make sure there are no squeaks in the suspension etc, normal stuff like that. I paid more than that for my 300E, and absolutely love it. One thing to watch out for is the odometer though - its a 20 year old car and the odometer gears have a tendency to strip, so on a test drive make sure that it records accurate mileage (speaking from experience here).
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  #11  
Old 04-08-2011, 07:34 AM
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Dustin, the car looks clean and would appear that it was maintained properly. However, it's best to have a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) done by a MB-trained tech who knows that vintage MB automobile and its quirks. The tech should be able to spot any pending major repairs so you can either adjust the purchase price, or walk away. Keep in mind there is nothing more expensive than buying a cheap MB automobile that has been neglected and costs thousands of dollars to make it right.
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  #12  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:20 PM
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I had two signs made up, one for me and the other for my mechanic.

"WARNING, THERE IS NOTHING MORE EXPENSIVE THAN A CHEAP MERCEDES"

Having said that my '87 300E (bought by my mechanic) has 220K and is running like a dream. Valve stem seals replaced at 150K, transmission resealed at about the same time. Other than that just normal maintenance.

Unfortunately my '93 300CE was the subject of the signs. It was POORLY maintained (but the price was right!)
Anziani
'93 300CE 196K
'95 E420 125K
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:54 PM
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Most of these cars are ready for major work on transmission and HVAC system. They probably also need new fuel injectors and possibly head gasket replacement.

Evidence of work recently done is pretty important in determining price to pay.
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2011, 08:59 AM
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in reality....what really matters is---- ice cold air....and a smooth shifting tranny.... especially in reverse.

if either of those are in question....just walk away....

you can do the other "necessary" stuff for about 4-500 dollars in parts
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1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



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  #15  
Old 04-11-2011, 02:17 AM
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The early style seats are like that. Very "springy" and not all that supportive.
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg
1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...
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