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Need Estimates for Suspension Work
Putting together a budget for selected "restoration" work on my 23 year old 124. I've owned it since new, always serviced, and I'll keep it forever. Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes, but most everything under there is original, and that's now 208K miles.
Anyone care to offer estimates on how much I should budget for having both front and rear suspensions/subframes, et al. rebuilt by my MB Master Tech indy? (At $85 per hour, his labor rates are relatively affordable.) I'm thinking all tie rods, sway bar ends, steering damper, idler arm bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, subframe rubber, perhaps also wheel bearings and struts. Anything else? As always, I'll insist on OE/OEM parts. Thanks for your thoughts. |
2500...
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. |
Ive dropped about 1k on my rear subframe so far, but that was replacing EVERYTHING. Including brakes, rotors, parking brake cables, bearings etc... Not including springs/struts.
Its still in my garage, ready to be installed. I dont remember the front as that was done a few years ago. |
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You would have a "new" car at that point. |
I wouldn't bother personally.
Do the front sway bar bushings if you want a dramatic difference in feel! Its super easy to do. Just jack up front of the car, unbolt sway bar each side (turn wheel if tires get in way) and use a rubber mallet to bash the old and new bushings in place. It makes a huge difference! |
If you can't do the work yourself, it may not be the best choice to drive an older W124. Unless it's a 500, you're always only one fender bender away from it being totalled.
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Not sure how many miles are on your car; that will make a difference in what you need. My '88 daily driver has 297k on it and I think its relatively well maintained and not beaten. Last weekend I replaced both lower outer control arm bushings (shot big time). I took the opportunity to inspect everything else because so much had to be removed. In preparation I ordered the entire set of links and bushings from Autohauz and when all was said and done, I didn't need anything other than the two outer bushings (left and right). Just returned the rest to Autohauz and will use the money toward new shocks and struts. So instead of a full suspension rebuild, my rear suspension (and I have put owned it for 195k of the total mileage and it has been parked outside in NY winters for 10 years) only needed outer bushings. I would agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality.
The front suspension needed ball joints so I replaced them and the control arm bushings at the same time. Just because they were easy, I replaced the sway bar bushings too. Just had an alignment today and the car is like it was when I got it ten years ago. Have a comprehensive inspection done before doing the job and don't tell your Indy you had planned for the worst. :eek: If all you need is what I replaced, you might be looking at $600-800 with an honest mechanic. |
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If its not worth it to you do what you think is best after all if your smiling after your decision that's all that matters. I'm rebuilding the whole car pretty much, just finished up the engine bay all the interior electric bits. Now its time to finish off the rear suspension and then have the front seats re-upholstered then have the body work done. Its my first Mercedes and darn it I'm going to make it look like it did when it was sitting on the dealer lot ready for purchase expensive yes but still cheaper than a new one! :) |
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Since you're the original owner you know what's been maintained. Rubber ages, so maybe start there. Many of the items on your list are starightforward jobs with basic tools. |
You can do this job in stages and preserve your budget.
You can buy OEM replacement front control arms with new bushings and ball joints. Sway bar bushings are cheap. You can rent a spring compressor. This will make the biggest difference in the ride. Rear bushings are also relatively cheap. You can rent the tool that changes them out. Front struts and strut mount change out is a relatively easy DIY job so is rear stru change out. Only do your brake rotors and pads when required. |
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I didn't jack the car up as the sway bar needs to be level to get it on and off in position properly. You can still do this job relatively easily even though its at low level. I didn't need to bash the rubbers on and off with a rubber mallet either - they were worked on and off in place by hand. The later model rubbers have a special coating in them so don't use Vaseline or oil to work them on. |
Bushings
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