1991 560sec timing chain replacement
 

So I replaced the timing chain 3 upper guide rails, timing chain guide rail and the timing tensioner. I went to start the car and it wouldn't. I made an odd noise then would push air back out the intake (oh ****!). I took off the valve covers and rechecked my timing marks. Sure enough the right side was off about one tooth.

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When the right side lines up the crank shows about 7 degrees ATDC. Have I have destroyed half of my valve train? Is it possible that I havent and everything will be good once I move the cam over one tooth?

i've seen the drivers side jump 4 teeth before bending valves, 1 tooth should be ok, unless the washers are upside down-very easy to do. also, the car that was off by 4 teeth ran, barely. shouldn't be your problem. good luck, chuck.

the car had a valve job done previously but i have found lots of mistakes already from the previous shop, how do i tell if the washers are in the right place?

Just my $0.02, but whenever fooling around in this area, it's a really good idea to turn the engine crank over slowly TWICE by hand before attempting to start it. You will very likely feel that something is wrong before damaging/bending anything.

Always, always, always do this!!!

May want to change your cam oiler tube fittings while your in there from the looks of them. Clean the tubes out with a pistol bore brush, brake cleaner, and compressed air. Make sure all the lobe orofices are clear.

Did you replace ( or has it been changed recently) the tensioner?

John

Thanks for all the advice. Changed the cam oilers and cleaned em, the new ones were brown. Turns out I put the distributer on 180 degrees off. I turned the crank several times beforehand and it turned fine. I have a couple new problems now though.

The car has 140,000 miles and had never had the timing chain replaced or the timing chain guides. The inner left side guide was broken off right at the lower pin but the chain hadn't jumped teeth. The car idled rough but still was being driven. Now that I replace all the upper guides chain and tensioner it still idles rough. I took off the valve covers and rechecked the timing (i've done this sooo many times now) and the cams don't line up perfectly, at 1-2 degrees atdc it seems the left is a hair past its mark and the right is a hair before but not enough to be a tooth off on the right cam, is this normal?

When rechecking the valve train one of the rocker arms felt loose. Its hard to see from this photo but the rocker arm on the right sits lower on the lifter and I can wiggle it up and down, what does this mean and is this a problem, could it be related to the rough idle?

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it looks like a bad lifter and that will cause a rough idle. after replacement, you'll have to check the valve adjustment. may need a different shim. good luck, chuck.

does anyone near Los Angeles have the valve spring tool and the hydraulic compensator measurer or know where to buy them?

have a compression tester handy? may be time to look @ cylinder pressures.

Will surely be easier to come by then the valve spring compressor!

Jonathan