How to tow a w124, back TO CALIIIIII!!! :)
 

Hey all, so I'm moving back to California from Texas in September and even though my trusty w124 has done the drive from CA-TX and TX-CA about four times, I've decided to tow it on a two wheel trailer on my buddys 04 Expedition for this trip back. I know it's not advisable to tow on a two wheel carrier instead of a flatbed, but I have to work with what I got.

My question is, what do I have to do to make this easy on the w124? Does the driveshaft need to come off? Cause I know if you leave it on, it will damage the trans? And lord knows I don't want trouble with the trans anytime soon... What do y'all recommend? :eek:

What about the possibility of renting a "flat bed" trailer from U-Haul or another such company?

I know they have restrictions on what vehicles they'll allow you to hitch it to and tow...but it might be worth a shot.

I thought about that too, but it's so expensive....it's like 500$ :( And this two wheel trailer is free from a friend.

UHaul says you have to disconnect the drive shaft on RWD, but I'm wondering why you can't back on and secure the steering wheel.

Isn't that super risky though??? If it comes loose all hell will break loose?? :eek:

No, No, NO you can't pull a vehicle backward. It is totally impossible to pull a car on a two wheeler with the front on the ground. Number one, the front end is heavy and acts like a pendulum, once it starts swagging you will be in the ditch upside down before it stops. Only, only, only front wheels on the dolly, get two wrenches and if you are young and strong you could have that drive line disconnected at the rear flex joint in 15 minutes. Be sure to tie your front wheels really tight on the carrier or it will begin "walking on you". They are risky to use, but follow directions and use good common sense and you can get it done.

The second reason is that the rear wheels are built for trailering. They are always in alignment and are made perfectly to follow the front. Your front wheels are adjustable and believe me when I say they are made to be up front, on the road or on the dolly hauler.

I never liked this method of towing but I think your best bet is to disconnect and secure driveshaft with front wheels on the dolly.

It sure sounds to me like junqueyardjim knows what he's talking about.

I guess it's tow bars going forward where people secure the steering wheel. The front isn't heavy on these cars - it's close to 50/50 weight distribution. Where would the world be if we didn't have adventuresome people willing try these things?

With fewer casualties!

Put a big old reminder on the dash that the prop shaft is disconnected. Don't need the excitement of putting it in gear with the prop shaft disconnected from the diff.

Sixto
87 300D

When the tow truck dragged my SDL to Whunter's he seemed to think it was just fine to tow the car backwards. He did run the seatbelt through the steering wheel, and locked the wheel with the ignition lock. It crabbed its way there just fine.

-J

Towing a RWD car backwards on a tow dolly is apparently not that rare, based on a quick internet search. Here's a nice thread on the subject:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25279904/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

one of those enlightened discussions where the people saying you can do it are actually doing it, and the people saying you can't do it have never tried it. I know I've seen it often enough, including on the interstate.

It does look like there's two rules though - really lock the front wheels, and avoid a front end weight bias, e.g. sand bags in the trunk. For a long trip I'd be tempted to remove the rear flex disk and go forward.

Consider the fact that the car is set up for toe in while going forward.
Ever drive a rear wheel drive car with excessive toe out?

Very darty and unstable, and reluctant to stay in a straight line.

Sure, you may be able to get away with it, and it might make sense for a short haul, but towing is difficult and risky enough when you do it correctly, why add a significant amount of instability?

Jim

Simply disconnecting the rear flex disc is not enough to get the drive shaft out of the way. You also have to disconnect the center support so the shaft will slide forward enough to remove the flex disc and disengage the shaft from the centering pin (not sure if that's the right term) on the differential flange and the centering bearing on the shaft. I had a friend that towed a car backwards on a dolly, He didn't make it 5 miles before it began to sway and both vehicles were in the guardrail and totalled. A wrecker can tow them backwards because they don't have the extra set of wheels on the ground from the dolly. That's what starts the swaying motion. Good luck with your adventure.

I've tried to tow a couple of cars loaded backwards on a twin-axle flat car trailer, the resulting instability was to say the least unnerving. I'd never consider doing it again.

Answer
 

Please read through this thread.


Towing DISASTER!!!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=225168

See my subsequent posts and links. I'm sure that's why UHaul and Penske advise against - the vast majority of people aren't able to navigate the weight distribution issue, but still many do it without problems. The devil is in the details.

The "devil is in the details", but the "details' are what an insurance company looks at in a liability claim.
Any unconventional method of towing may cause an invalidation of the owners insurance coverage.
In today's litigious society it's best not to "experiment" on a cross country escapade !!!

Hey DEANYEL, until you have hooked one up and tried it, don't be blabbin about what or how all the other guys are doing it, how they are all pulling them front first on towing dollies. It just doesn't happen. Hunter even posted the pictures how one of our members tried it about 18 months ago and in less then 50 miles totaled a new Equinox and the Mercedes. Babymog says the motor home operators do it that way, front first. Well the typical car isn't a motorhome. Most motor homes have between 6,000 and 12,000 lbs on the rear wheels. All I am saying is before you get on the horn and say it can be done, hook one up behind your car and try it. I'd say your chances of having a serious wreck inside of 10 miles is very high.

Several years ago a friend of mine moved cross-country. Somehow he scraped enough money together to buy a used flat trailer, moved his car (stuffed with cothing) on it, got everything else in the bed of his truck. Got to Colorado, unloaded, and sold the trailer for a few dollars more than he'd paid for it. No rental, no front end dolly. Takes a little cash up front but it's a thought.

That's how I towed my MB from Virginia to Colorado.

Sure seems like the 'way to fly.'

I would only consider the following, in this order:

1. Drive it back
2. Tow with the car on a flat bed
3. Tow with rear wheels of the car on the ground

The flat bed trailer may be $500 for rental but I'd rather pay that than risk having getting into an accident that will cause more damage (to oneself and to others too).

Disconnecting the driveshaft is not difficult. :)

Thanks for all the advice everyone I truly appreciate it!

Turns out, it will not be towed back but driven back, since I am one of the many owners of the w124 without well working air conditioning, and 90% of the drive will be extremely hot during the day, I've decided to drive overnight so it will be cooler. But the car will be loaded to the weight limit with my belongings, and just the fact that she stalled out on me two months ago and the cause of that stall was never really found along with my SRS light that still pops on every once and awhile makes me kind of nervous. She drives very well on the freeway but at stop and go she has pulses at idle. I have AAA thank god and hopefully the cooler temps will help out and I'll be at 65mph instead of 80 because the speed limits drop at night so it'll be a little easier on the engine.

I've checked the belt, changed the fuel filter, checked the flex discs, power steering, trans fluid, oil will be changed right before the drive back, checked tires, fuses look okay, coolant is topped off and hoses look good also. She's done this trip 4 times already she just needs to do a one way one more time and she's home free, I can't wait for the drive, I'll just be nervous about it until I reach Tucson....

Stalling along with SRS light usually indicates OVP related issues. Might try to find a spare before you leave.

OVP is a relay right? Where is it located? I always get OVP and MAS confused -_-

The OVP is a tall "cube" relay with 1 or 2 fuses on top of it. It is located right next to the battery.

The MAS relay is located right next to the OVP as well, and (on 90-up) cars, is a combination of the separate Fuel Pump / Klima relays normally found on the early (86-89) cars.

Carry a spare voltage regulator too.

Sixto
87 300D