So where is this mysterious R16/1
 

I just bought a 92 300 TE 3.0L 193K mi I think it is a CA model since it has an air pump . It has some emissions issues ie: high nox 2.0659 g/km max is 1.24 g/km. HC is .0980 g/km max is .5000 g/km. Co is .1157 g/km max is 9.3200 so hi nox low everything else. Pulled the EGR hose and sucked while the engine was idiling result engine wanted to die, I believe this proves the EGR is working or at least not plugged. After some research I went looking for the R16/1 resistor to find out what it was set at but could not locate it. Next step will be to figure out how to richen the mixture up since I think it is somewhat lean. Car requires a bit of cranking to start especially when cold but it always starts. It runs well with good smooth power,. no idea about gas mileage yet, not enough miles driven yet. Cheers Dan

Should be in a harness to the inside of the brake booster.
It's a fixed resistor so there is no adjustable setting.
It has nothing to do with fuel enrichment only timing as it inputs to the EZL.

Resistor
 

The issue of fuel enrichment and ignition timing are separate I realize but they both can have an effect on the Nox readings which is what I am trying to reduce. If I richen up the mixture or reduce the ignition timing each should lower nox. I may have to do both, I believe the EGR to be functional since when I suck on the hose with the engine at idle it want to die, Cheers Dan

When running with resistor removed I richened fuel mixture to max and gaped plugs to 40 based on recommendations in performance section. Passed emissions in GA but not sure if it would have passed north of the border.

Max would be where there is 10 point difference in average duty cycle at idle and at 2500 rpms. More than 10 points would not be in spec and less than 10 would mean leaner. This is with air cleaner in place.

I will try to find the recent report and post.

3 weeks ago:

I kinda cheated
 

I put studded snow tires on the car to take it through the test last time. Legal in this part of the world at this time of year. They won't test it on the dyno due to Workmens Compensation regulations. Afraid a stud will fly off and kill someone. They only do the idle test which does not include nox. So it passed but I still would like to get the car running right. Cheers Dan

Here's what it looks like.
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4073/4...be27e863_b.jpg

thank you that helped
 

The pic is helpful . I should have asked at the beginning where it was and what it looked like. It haven't found it yet but I did find out that the OVP relay was unplugged which seemed to take some of the emissions stuff offline. As soon as I plugged back in the car was instantly easier to start. I am beginning to wonder if the CA model even has the R16 installed. It has an led in the X92 connector which is supposed to flash but I haven't been able to make it flash , it stays on all the time. The duty cycle percentage signal went down from 100% to 50% when I plugged the OVP back in as well so something is working better. I will have to play a bit more & report back on what is happening now. Cheers Dan

Both Federal and Cali have air pumps. Look for the specifications sticker on the upper radiator support. Black sticker is Federal, yellow is Cali.

Bear in mind Ivanerrol's car is a right hand drive, assuming you're in the USA you can bet it will be somewhere else. That resistor incidentally I have tried to locate myself to no avail. I'd like to find it, if it indeed exists on my car.

Another piece of info emerges
 

Dux thank you It is indeed a federal car with a black sticker!! It does however have the red led in the X92 connector, I thought only the Ca cars had that Cheers Dan.

Only need to read my post # 2 to find the location in LHD vehicles....;)

If it's a 124 M103-12V USA build it has the fixed R16 resistor as the USA EZL is not adjustable for different octanes.

The builds other then the USA have a EZL which has an adjustment knob to adjust timing based on octane available.

If you were to use the search feature on this forum, you would find a rather lengthy thread on the subject of the R16/1:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/32224-read-free-hp-w201-w124-owners-pictures.html

LOL Ok ok,,, it's just the way heard about it I had been to Rik Johnson's W201 site where he stated it was behind the battery where of course it is not. I've looked all over for it. Maybe it was with his car but I can tell you unless I am blind as a bat it ain't where he says it is. His is a '92 2.6, perhaps that's the difference. Also, I am a bit confused - you say it's by the brake booster, but the photos in the thread show it as being behind the battery which is on the opposite side of the car LOL. There is a slight poverty of clarity at issue here.

After reading the thread through I have come to the conclusion that it might be the placebo effect at play. However I would still like to try changing the resistance to 2400Ω in lieu of removing the resistor altogether, or even better getting an adjustable resistor knob.

I may try soldering up the current plug with a fixed resistor sourced from Radio Shack or making an adjustable one from a trimmable pot. Easy enough to experiment with.

I found it
 

Mine was strapped to the lo pressure freon ac line beside the brake booster as others have mentioned. Also I don't think think a trimmer resistor will work I believe the system is looking for one of 5 or 6 discrete values from about 2400 ohms down to zero. A plug in resistor with one of these values would work but not in between, Cheers Dan

might work if you trim the pot to any one of the resistance values the ECU works with, easily accomplished with a DMM

otherwise the part #s for the fixed resistors or the euro knobs should work as well