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pressure bleeding
ok I went to NAPA and picked up a tire valve core, the type that has a rubber gromit and a nut to tighten or clamp it in place. I drilled a hole in the cap of the master cylinder and installed the valve core. I put pressure in it from my compressor but it leaks around the threds of the cap so I can not keep a steady pressure. yes the rubber o ring is in the cap. what the hell is next?:mad:
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how much pressure are you using?
IIRC when I use the motive to pressurize it works wonderful under 15 PSI. |
pressure
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I have not done a car like yours but I would go down to 5-8 lbs. I don't think I ever use 10 lbs even.
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I was able to bleed my master cylinder by using a motive pressure bleeder and then cracking open all the lines one by one.
It worked like a champ. |
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pressure bleeding
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I'm pretty sure the bleeder itself has some type of internal regulator. 30 psi just seems way too much. I'd imagine brake fluid at 30 psi would shoot clear across the work shop.
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I had my home made pressure bleeder pumped to 15 lbs while I was bleeding the clutch- the hose from the slave popped off and it looked like a brake fluid waterfall under the car.
30 lbs I'd be worried about cracking the fluid container! |
bleeding pressure
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When I had to replace a brake line on the 190 I could not get it to bleed until I got the pressure up to 15-20 lbs.
The one I made is a pump garden sprayer that I added a pressure gauge to. I bought a new reservoir cover and drilled the old one, which fits plenty tight. I loose pressure out of the O ring around the pressure gauge right at about 20 psi. |
motive
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Heck, you are under there already just try doing it the old fashioned way....
Put a wooden block under the brake pedal to limit the stroke so you don't damage the MC internal seals. rjp |
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