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-   -   Double question, all the way!! 1990 300SE 126 (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=309248)

scoodidabop 12-02-2011 06:21 PM

Double question, all the way!! 1990 300SE 126
 
My front passenger brake caliper leaked ALL of my brake fluid out a couple days ago... I took the caliper all apart and cleaned all the brake fluid and grime off of it. The brake fluid ate some of the paint off my wheel... yay!!

Anyway, it turns out it was the bleeder valve that was leaking. Fixed the leak and bled the front brakes this morning but I still have awful brake pedal pressure. After hitting the gas pedal the brake wants to go to the floor... any pointers? I'm not terribly experienced with brake jobs so I need some help with this one before I kill someone on the road.


The other issue that's been bugging me is this clunking sound. Whenever I make a right turn there's this nasty pop/clunk that seems to speed up when I accelerate. I might be crazy but it also seems to only happen when I hit the accelerator. When I let off the clunk subsides... I think... It also likes to go away when I ease the wheel to the left.

All of my rubber joints look ok on the suspension as do the white plastic sway bars in the rear. Fearing the worst, I visually inspected the flex-disc and it looks to be in good shape. Any ideas? Would a broken motor or transmission mount cause the drive shaft to interfere with something?? I'm at a loss on this one...

Thanks!

Hit Man X 12-02-2011 08:34 PM

Was your master cylinder totally dry? You may have to bench bleed it, THEN rebleed the car... starting with the right rear.

The clunking? Unless you have rebuilt the front end, consider it dead at this point. Most clunking I experience is from worn out strut rod mounts. I also did experience odd noises with worn out ball joints.

Broken motor mount will make the exhaust hit the frame. But the entire car would vibrate at idle, very noticeable.

You know there are TWO flex discs right? If they have cracks, replace them. The one at the end of the trans is more important.

scoodidabop 12-02-2011 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X (Post 2839889)
Was your master cylinder totally dry? You may have to bench bleed it, THEN rebleed the car... starting with the right rear.

The clunking? Unless you have rebuilt the front end, consider it dead at this point. Most clunking I experience is from worn out strut rod mounts. I also did experience odd noises with worn out ball joints.

Broken motor mount will make the exhaust hit the frame. But the entire car would vibrate at idle, very noticeable.

You know there are TWO flex discs right? If they have cracks, replace them. The one at the end of the trans is more important.

Totally dry? Yeah pretty much... I mean there may have been a LITTLE in there. Bench bleed huh? Never heard of it. Time to google!

Regarding the clunking, it's a steady "clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk" etc. ... It goes away only when I get going pretty fast or when I ease the wheel to the left to "relieve" what ever is broken. I want to think front end issues wouldn't cause a repetitive clunk like that but maybe they can.

Sorry I forgot to mention; both flex discs looked good.

Hit Man X 12-03-2011 01:15 AM

Bench bleed entails removal of the MC and burping the air out well, on your work bench. Just like if it was new.

Cannot tell you about the issue with the clunking. Get under there and start feeling everything by hand.

oldsinner111 12-03-2011 06:56 AM

Clunking check sway bar mount and sway bar links.Brakes take a broom, stick, or 2x4 and press pedal down and wedge it in the seat.Leave it overnight,and refill master if needed in the morning.This helps to get stubborn air out of system.

Mike Murrell 12-03-2011 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoodidabop (Post 2839731)
I took the caliper all apart

That could be your problem.


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