95 S500 Limp mode "dtc code 7"
 

Hi havent been on the forum in years! Im having problems with my w140 hoping I can get some help.

My car is stuck in limp/asr mode. Luckily my 95 has the L.e.d. near the f23 box. It blinked "code 7" According to 'K6JRF" website it listed code 7 as 'Ignition system defective' Ive replaced spark plugs wires, checked cap and rotor they seem to be in good condition. I cleaned off whatever carbon has built up.

The car was running fine prior to it running out of gas and getting stuck into limp mode when it was restarted. My ETA is working and my maf was cleaned but with no progess. Every time I start the car it idles and isnt drivable. The ASR light is on, ive tried various ways to reset it but havent had any luck.

Thanks

Just to clarify - it stays at idle no matter what the throttle position is?

You need to have codes read from the EA computer to see why the ASR light is on.

I actually found out I have more then one code. 6,7,10, and 11.
So my maf is bad, my ETA is bad, ignition, and a computer.

I think I may just get a new motor considering the cost of all those items collectively equal to a new engine and R&R. Kinda sucks for just running out of gas...

I can accelerate but the pedal basically has to touch the kick down switch in order for the throttle to respond. It also Wont go any faster then 20-25mph

Just for review . . . has the engine wiring harness been replaced? If not, there's your culprit.

If it was running completely fine before running out of gas, I'd say something needs resetting. Did you work the throttle from under the hood with the key on? That will put you in limp mode. Try clearing codes, and depressing the gas pedal fully with the key on/engine off. If nothing else is wrong, that should get you out of limp mode.

I've never changed the wiring harness, and judging by the looks of it, It's original.

Yes the car literally ran out gas, after refueling It took a bit of cranking to get it restated.
I never messed with the throttle linkage under the hood but I did play with key and pedal.

Do I need a scanner to reset the codes or can I use the l.e.d.?

. . change the W/H . . your luck has just run out! And, unfortunately, it probably blew an ECU due to shorted wires. It's not the first this has happened.

I reset the codes. I'm trying various ways of clearing the asr light. I tried to put it into diagnostic mode by connecting pin 1&6 on the 38pin diag connector but no luck.

Is there any way I could test the w/h?

I agree that you should change the wire harness for sure, but have you tried to reset adaptation for the computer just to see if you can get the car going again?

After you've cleared all the codes out and are only getting a single flash after pushing the button, hold the button down for 6-8 seconds 2 seconds after you see the single flash, turn the key off for 2 seconds, then on for 10 seconds and then start the engine.

I don't know if this will help but I don't think it can hurt either.

So Ive finally gotten around to ordering the parts. I purchased: 2 computers, new maf, new wiring harness. Hopefully this fixes the problem :confused:

My question is how do I remove the computers? They seem to be really stuck in there, I dont want to break the connections removing them incorrectly.

Thanks

TTT

Status update still stuck in ASR mode
 

Still having ASR problems after replacing parts.

List of parts replaced:

1. New wiring harness

2. 2 new computers, n30/1 & n3/1

3. new maf

4. new plugs & wires

The car starts and idles nicer but its still in ASR limp mode. No dials work and I keep getting code 6,7,11.

Any help appreciated!

Wow, you have spent some $$$$ for the parts . . .

I suggest you get your ohmmeter and perform the tests outlined at the bottom of Victor's page here.


There's video (SL500 bench test) that will guide you through the procedure. Turn the engine off and remove the connector end of cable to gain access to the pins. Post what you find . . .

Yeah took some time but im still willing to spend a little more to get this car fixed. At the price I paid for it I figure with all the repairs it will add up to its current value...

Anyway, Im thinking I may go with a used or rebuilt ETA from ebay? My guess is the wiring for my current ETA is probably as bad as my wiring harness. Every wire was cracked and exposed on my main wiring harness, I cant imagine what the ETA harness looks like...