Locked keys in 88 420 sel
 

Hello, just completed an engine swap in a 1988 420 sel. I have been adding trans fluid and noticed a bunch on the floor coming from what looks like the top of the trans but I can't see (the vent). I was thinking to turn the motor over to get it to fill up the torque converter so I quickly hooked up the battery to turn the motor over and left the keys in the ignition. I assume that as soon as I hooked up the battery that the doors locked themselves. I have unhooked the battery and they are still locked.
Does anyone know how to bypass the locks? Thanks.

Sorry, Just noticed that I submitted this in the diesel section too.

macdoe, order a new key from your local MB dealer. You will probably need a spare key again some day.

Trunk open? Just jump the vac pump if so. :)

The hood is open....trunk is closed and locked as well.

Why did this occur exactly? Is this some sort of problem with the system or is it supposed to do this? What manner of how this system works has allowed this to occur?

Has something failed in the master valve? or is the door lock mechanism stuck in a certain direction so as to activate the doors to lock?

This car has been sitting awhile and I have not actually seen it run. I'll check if the drivers side door has been tampered with in the a.m.

Would the valve to control the central locking system be in the d.s door lock mechanism?

macdoe, our 1995 E320 reacts the same way when reconnecting the battery. Fortunately I have a spare key, but I normally make sure not to leave the key in the car and leave the driver's door window down when installing a new battery, or reconnecting the battery after performing maintenance work on the electrical system.

Good point on the 2nd key -always have one. Faster may be a locksmith though.

There is a way to unlock W126's easily, but I don't want to post it publicly. I will PM with the instructions :)

Thanks for your pleasant response guys. I appreciate it at this time.

Anyone know how to get into its locked trunk.?

I think, judging by the responses, is that the only way I will get in is to have a new key made at the dealership or start wrecking stuff. I live out of town so a locksmith will be too expensive.

Dealership key requires the title in your name and of course ID. MB of Nashville quoted me $16, other dealers have been more expensive.

Got it with a coat hanger, thanks for your help guys.

How? By prying the door open? :eek:

Yes , unfortunately.... I pryed the door open probably a total of a half inch- three quarters of an inch at the top of the door in between the front and rear door glass frames.

I wrapped the gooseneck end of a small stanley prybar with electrical tape so as not to scratch it...but I should have wrapped the coat hanger too cause there was some slight scratching on the door frame from the hanger , noticed afterward.

I worked at it off and on for three to four hours....my feet were freezing and my hands would cramp from grasping the thin hanger so I took some breaks.

I was a bit worried when prying that I might shatter the glass so I took it real slow... Wear safety Glasses and Like Diesel 911 says, keyword is "patience". Don't break the window with the prybar by letting it slip out of your hands...I had some close calls with cramping hand muscles.

Not much fun in the cold, at least it was under shelter...will be getting a spare key at the dealership as soon as possible so as not to have to repeat this fiasco'.

This car is not very easy to get into at all...I'd recomend to have spare keys for this car as was recomended for sure.

Since I know have a key to duplicate: can the dealership cut me a spare with proper title and i.d.? Or is the key still ordered from somewhere?

Thanks again.

Most dealerships dont cut any keys any more, they order one from the parts depot, by VIN # usually overnight. They are steel, as compared to brass that some locksmiths use, and not copies from your key.

I thinks this was the right option in this condition ,.
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