Opinions of Rotella T6 Synthetic for M103?
 

Just spotted this one at Walmart...I like the idea of Synthetic, but I really want to keep the additive package that we all know the 103+104 valvetrains enjoy.

It meets CJ4 specs...and is heavy duty..
It says comparable to the 15-40 on the back of it...
I wonder if it's got the same additive package as the 15-40 conventional?

What do you guys think?

Not worried about leaks, I'm good. Engine is spotless.

Nice story.

My post is about the oil specs, not politics or anything socioeconomic whatsoever -- Take it to the open discussion instead of cluttering the Technical Discussion with that garbage please. There are so many wrong things about your post that I would love to discuss, but...we are not in the open discussion.
/cut.

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http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

Based on the stats, it looks good!

SAE Viscosity Grade: 5W-40
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, C4, SM, SL, SH; ACEA E9; Caterpillar
ECF-3, ECF-2; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218; Ford WSS
M2C171-E; JASO DH2, MA; Mack EO-0 Premium Plus; MAN 3275;
MB Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4

I think I'm gonna switch!
Better sooner than later....I see no downside to this other than the possibility of leaks, but I'll simply seal them :)

Here here. I second this.

Back on topic:

I use the Rotella stuff in my 300SDs.
Considering it for the 420SEL (currently has 15w40 diesel stuff)
I just put Mobil 1 0w40 synthetic in the 190E.

If the T6 stuff has the zddp additive that I've read the 103/104s like, I dont see any harm. Its 5w40 stuff it looks like. Better than the 15w40 stuff I was running in the cold temps.

The Mobil 1 stuff cost me $60.

You are right and I was in error.

What's it cost?

We run 5w40 Synthetic T6 in all of our cars....diesel and gas alike. Only my sister's VW has a different oil....M1 of some sort. I don't work on it. :D

I've used it in the diesel and in the M103. I've even used it in my motorcycle. It's comparatively inexpensive. However the thing that bugs me is it's not a true synthetic oil; group III.

When I have used it, I noticed no particular benefit over anything else I've used. I did kinda sorta notice that the M103 seemed to prefer M1 For High Mileage over anything else, and that's what I continue to use. For the diesel, I use M1 Turbo Diesel Truck/Delvac Synthetic.

Regarding the valvetrain, both show no wear and are clean so I suppose it's not an issue that I'm not using an oil that is known for its ZDDP content. It doesn't seem to matter.

For my part, I need an oil that you don't have to change very often. For that I'm only confident with M1 class and above. Since you can buy M1 at Walmart and it's frequently on sale, I feel it's the best solution for someone like me who needs at least 7500 miles out of an oil change. I'm not confident I can get that out of Rotella Synthetic, especially with the diesel. The additive pkg may be excellent but the basestock isn't as good as M1.

In the end, it probably doesn't matter. As far as your engine 'liking' it better, how does one quantify this?

Switching to synthetic oil in my experience hasn't caused any leaks anywhere. I don't know where people get that. Both my cars I know for sure were run their whole lives on dino before I got them and switched to syn. If they leaked it was because they needed new gaskets.

I asked mine the other day. It preferred whatever cost the most. LOL.

I suppose a more scientific method would be to send the oil out for analysis. A place like Blackstone Labs would be a good start. I sampled my one SD but haven't sent it in yet. I've probably waited too long. lol.

They get that from synthetic oil on the ground. You apparently misunderstand - they are not saying it always causes leaks. Your personal statistically irrelevant experience is obviously not evidence that it never results in leaks. Synthetic oil's propensity to leak is hardly provocative - even Mercedes has acknowleged it.

I'm having trouble with the logic of the last sentence - "If they leaked (with synthetic) it was because they needed new gaskets" Why would you replace gaskets that don't leak with conventional oil if you're using conventional oil?

What I'm having trouble with is the hostile tone of your post. I can safely say my relatively innocuous and neutral chime-in didn't quite deserve it.

This is an oil thread though so I should have known better than to post anything at all.

Regarding my personal experience being irrelevant, I disagree. The personal experiences of the members of this forum are an important source of analysis. From my understanding of your courteous reply, I'm not supposed to relay any of my personal experience because it's worthless to the discussion? No I think I'm as free to do so as anyone else.

What I meant, is that after switching to synthetic oil in cars that were previously run on dino only, no leaks were observed in my case which runs contrary to the popular belief that switching to synthetic on high mileage cars causes leaks. That's what I posted, and that's how it reads. I apologize if you have a problem but there is nothing I can do.

I rely on members personal experience here. Its probably the most useful piece of information available.

I switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic on my m103. I have a slight leak on my timing chain cover...I have not noticed more leaking than before when I was on dino.

For what it is worth I have been using M1 0W-40 in my 300CE (M103) for the last couple oil changes. I have no leaks to speak of. I did have to replace the timing cover gasket and valve cover gasket before last change though they were leaking before switching and we all know these items can be a common source of leaks on any older M103. Once resealed all is good. 15W-40 is a bit too cold to use here in the winter when temps go below freezing. Rotella T6 is a good oil but quite pricey up here. I cross the border to get 0W-40 since it is half the price and easily found at any Walmart. Cold temperatures, stop and go along with short drives makes me think a synthetic oil is a good choice for my driving conditions. I think we can all agree to getting a bit carried away with oil recommendations. Oil change intervals and quality of your oil filter are a lot more important to engine life than what particular oil you use...

The blue bottle T6? It is in my SD currently and my PSD, I do not drive distance enough to warrant extended drain intervals in the SD so I just change it at six month intervals. March and September. Biggest plus for the T6 gave me quicker oil pressure on cold starts this winter. Not sure if that is due to the 5W versus 15W, but probably. I am kind of sad the significant upgrade in cost for the T6 is just a highly refined dino based oil. :/ It will make me think twice about its purchase next time unless on sale.

Usually I just use whatever oil is on sale. :)

SDL has Delvac I think, maybe Delo. 300SEL Walmart 15/40 Diesel, seeing how it would treat me after my valve job. I assume it will be comparable to any other dino based 'Diesel' oil. 560 has M1 15/50.

I could see a slight advantage of syn in a volatile climate such as AZ/NM/TX in the summer, but probably not enough to warrant spending twice the money for the same oil change intervals on these cars.

But you still didn't get the point. Go back and read your post number 7 - you suggested that because you didn't experience leaks you couldn't understand how anyone could make that claim. Certainly your experience isn't irrelevant to you, but it is statistically meaningless. In and of itself it doesn't prove or disprove synthetic oil's propensity to leak and/or to make leaks worse. My experience is different - but I wouldn't suggest that that proves it always leaks for everyone. I'd say the tone was moderate in the context of the egregious logic flaw.

I use it if temps stay below 18 degrees,other wise I run 15w40 in all my vehicles