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300TE Alarm system (Viper 1002) install
Hey guys,
I have a viper 1002 alarm that I want to install for keyless lock/unlock only. I don't need any other features really. Current factory alarm works great, horn works...everything is good. I kinda don't know where to start. I've read all the threads, but most of them are based around those $25 chinese units. What do I need to do make mine work? The manual is chinese to me...I don't know what wires I need. Any pointers to get me going in the right direction? |
I have a thread around here somewhere. I think you might have posted in it too actually. The wiring I used for the late model 126's should work with your 124 too.
The keyless unit I used--Avital--is made by the same company that your Viper unit is--Directed Electronics so wiring should be fairly similar. EDIT: Here's the thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/311684-keyless-entry-wiring-key-w126-w123-etc.html EDIT: Here the wiring for 2nd gen 126 (should be fairly similar to your 124): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2879520-post17.html http://i.imgur.com/n5ZSu.png |
I gathered from the threads I should be able to make it work using the 4 wires from my harnesses...
On the wiring diagram, I am lost on what wire to use for the unlock/lock. I have 7 wires as shown. What color wires do I use for it? (1st pic is my ACTUAL harness). I have the +12v and GND, its just the lock/unlock I need to figure out. http://w124-zone.com/downloads/photo...m/doorlock.jpg |
Plugged in the siren, and it beeps when I lock/unlock....but it won't beep like its supposed to when I "enter" the setup mode. I press the valet button for 3sec like the manual says and its supposed to chirp at me to confirm entering setup -- but nothing happens. :mad:
Stupid thing. I don't get it. :confused: Here's how I have it though: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...iperlayout.jpg |
Ok Here's what you do:
Tap the indicated wire for always-on power, and the ground for ground. Pick any one of the blue circled wires, about 6-7" up from the plug on the vacuum pump cut just that wire. You'll be using it to wire into the keyless system Here's you connection list for the door-harness of the Viper: http://i.imgur.com/AKCgul.jpg |
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Thanks. I'll get those extra wires hooked up and see what happens.
I hope that the missing link why it won't go into setup. |
I plugged everything in as stated and still no luck...
On the main harness, all I need is just the +12v constant and ground right? I also still cannot get it into the learning mode!!! This is so frustrating. As I said, it chirps when it locks/unlocks, but vacuum pump does not function and no chirps when in the learning mode. The manual states that H1/Green or H1/Violet must be connected and +12v ignition must be connected, but I am not 100% sure if this is why the learning mode won't engage? If I connect these up to eliminate this as the problem, where would I connect the H1/Green or Violet to? Manual states H1/Green is door trigger input (-), and H1/Violet is door trigger input (+). |
Hmmm when I get a few minutes I'll sit down with your manual and write up a full connection guide for the Viper.
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I should be able to confirm it once if I can find where the (-) door trigger wire is? That's all I am missing...
Can I use any of the wires from the 3pin round plug? |
The door trigger wire would be any one of these wires circled in blue:
http://i.imgur.com/5MjxM.png |
hooked it up to yellow (trunk) and put +12v ignition, followed the steps in the manual (open door (tried both trunk+driver door), then ignition ON then off, then hold valet button for 3 seconds and the siren should chirp to acknowledge menu mode activated) and it doesn't chirp for menu. It obviously won't work in 0.8sec delay mode that is the factory setting, I have to change it to 3.5sec, but I can't do that when it won't let me get into the menu.
There is no technical support for Viper unless I wanna pay basically. Maybe I should just go get one of those chinese ones for $15 and be done with it. |
You could get the one that I used in my thread in post 2.
I've never had to change any settings for delays or anything when I installed the one in my 201. The 300SD install I did used an electric door actuator. I should finish up that guide for the viper in a bit here or so. |
I haven't done anything since earlier last week when I installed what I could...Noticed today that UNLOCK works!!! It seems that its only lock that is not working. I guess I did not notice this before.
Have not entered the learning mode at all or anything like that. Still factory settings. Any ideas why lock won't work? Alarm is working otherwise...When I manually unlock the car, then lock the Unit (does not lock the factory system), then close the door, the unit's alarm goes off....so it seems everything is functional, minus lock. Ideas? |
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Have no idea how you hooked it up....
But this is much more clearer how it should be connected, ignore the wiring colors, go with the lock/unlock relay pin#s on the dwg. instead. You need to go into setup in your unit for 3 second delay. EDIT: Don't forget to cut the wire between pin 87 (lock) & pin 87 (unlock) relays. |
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That's the correct connections.
Which wire did you cut from vacuum pump to door actuator? Were you able to setup for 3 sec delay? |
Have not been able to enter setup still...I don't understand why.
Seems although the doors UNLOCK, factory alarm goes off when opening the door so it's obviously still not working right even on unlock. |
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It won't do that once you are able to lock using remote and unlocking with it as well. |
You know I honestly don't remember doing anything in the 'programming' section of mine.
If I get a chance I'll pull up my back seat in the 190E and write down how I have it wired up. Maybe I did something different compared to what I've written in the previous posts on here. |
REAR install Location
Jimmy,
You've got yours done the SANE way! (Easy Direct, Access with No Guessing [As DEI wants you to do] to the Vacuum Pump's wiring AND Power and Ground!) That's My Remedial Plan for this Unit! Bonus is the Convenience Control Unit (Power Windows and Sunroof) is right over on the other side (Driver's) of the Rear "Under Seat". So I'm gonna use one of the "Aux" functions for Remote Window/Sunroof open close. |
If
You have a Factory Alarm (AND I Don't).
AND You use Jimmy's simpler wiring and rear location (Under the Rear Seat). Which uses the Vacuum Pump DIRECTLY to open and close the Door Locks. Does Opening the Door Locks DISABLE the Factory Alarm? (AND Vice Versa with the Locking Function?) Or do "You who Have" a Mercedes Alarm System have to go through some further "Tom Foolery" with the Microswitches in the Doors/Trunk??? |
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My 420SEL still has the factory alarm installed. The unit arms/disarms normally (lock=arm, unlock=unarm) However, I did notice that if I locked the car while driving down the road, the alarm will go off. I didn't do the keyless entry install though, we paid a shop to do it due to being busy at that point in time. |
ps2cho
Did it "Let" you into the Inner Programming Sanctum Yet?
I Fought with mine all afternoon. 'Much more Options to the Programming than Initially Appears. Turns Out EACH Remote can be programmed Separately AND DIFFERENTLY! At one Point I FINALLY had the New Remote Synced to the Base Unit,BUT it would only use the .8 Second Pulse...which is no go with Mercedes. I had to go Back into another section of the programming and reset the time (3.5 seconds) duration attributed to that New Remote. You can Also "Loose"/Lockout any Prior remotes that may have been "Lost" or "Misplaced". At one Point this afternoon I got into some sort of "Single Button" programming for the New Remote. The "Lock" symbol Button would lock and UNLOCK the system. I'd push the Lock Symbol and the doors would lock. If I then pushed the Lock button again the doors would Unlock??? ______________________________________________ The UnLock button did nothing! ______________________________________________ Took me a while to figure out what was going on. and even longer to figure out how to re-program it. Mayhaps that's what you're experiencing? |
On this car you need the door triggers obviously to trigger valet mode.
1986-93 Mercedes 300 Series Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Note- you can hit the door trigger wires the way the diagram link shows (its a hassle that way) or simply pop out the driver's door door pin and tap into the trigger wire there (test to make sure you have the right wire), and then pop out a rear door pin and tap the rear triggers there. Mercedes has two separate dome lights so you need to run two different door trigger wires. Run new wires from those two pins directly to the brain at those points. You WILL need isolation diodes for the triggers to work properly, you cannot just tie the wires together at the alarm. Pick up a set of isolation diodes from Radio Shack. On the door lock and the factory disarm, get to the vacuum pump motor that triggers the lock / unlock- and find the lock and unlock wires there. IIRC hooking up the (-) trigger to UNLOCK the door at that point will also disarm the factory alarm so they both work together. Parking light flash you will need diodes again to isolate the LH and RH lights (German car) and you can find those wires behind the headlight switch or go to the trunk, and access the right wires right at the rear parking lights- LH and RH side right at the harness going to the lenses. T-Tap there (yes, I said T-Tap, doesn't break the wire so your lights will always work) Easiest way IMO rjp |
One last thing-Ignore that DIrected diagram (first one you posted), it's messed up. You don't need to do all that. on this car the door lock / unlock is strictly negative trigger.
(Violet) AND (Violet/ Black) on Viper both go to (-) Ground (Blue/Black)= (-) Unlock wire (Green/Black)= (-) Lock wire. Simplest way is to run two wires, one for lock, one for unlock and connect them to the Vacuum pump motor Green and Blue (IIRC Blue is unlock) wires denoted in the diagram above (pump under rear seat) You do not need the other wires, cap them off. rjp |
I noticed battery is draining overnight a little...is that due to not using diodes you think?
Busy with school this week, so I will try to tackle this again next week and get to bottom of it. |
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rjp |
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