![]() |
W201/124 Front Shock Removal
Hey everyone,
I just ordered some new Bilstein B8's for my 190E. I was reading the FSM's R&R instructions and it says to remove the coil spring. That just seems unnecessary. I just wanted to confirm that with everyone here. Also I wanted to know if a new alignment was necessary. I'm also replacing the shock mounts. I dont know how integral the shock/shock mounts are to the front end alignment. Additionally, is there any special tool required to easily remove the nut on the top of the shock, it just seemed like there might be an easier way to go about removing that thing. I believe its 22mm or 21mm I can't recall. Thanks! -Kris |
IIRC the top nut is 22mm or 7/8". I used a deep offset box wrench and you need to hold the shock rod with an allen when you loosen or tighten.
Check the condition of the shock mounts. They might show tears as if they have been nicked by a razor. If they show any wear at all or if they are just old, now is the time to change them. Changing them after you have new shocks on is a real chore. Many threads on changing shocks without removing springs. That is the way I did it on my 91 300CE. The gist of it is to have the control arm resting on a jack stand ( not a jack) and the weight of the car controlling the spring and keeping it compressed. |
you do not need to remove the coil spring. to remove the top nut you need a 22 mm wrench and a 7mm (or 5mm, can't remember) allen wrench. then for the bottom bolts you need a 19mm (or 17mm not sure) again these are all simple tools. loosen the top nut then work on the bottom bolts. you will also need some loctite to apply to the bolts at the bottom. for one of the bolts at the bottom you will need a socket and wrench to hold it in place while you loosen it same as with the 22mm open wrench and allen wrench at the top. relatively simple job. make sure you disconnect the plastic brake bracket from the strut.. good luck
|
Yes, the procedure calls for compression and removal of the coil spring, because that's the safest way to do it. The Mercedes internal compressor is the proper tool. However, if you're willing to risk (bodily injury, damage to surrounding components) then you can release the spring by jacking up the car, using a jack under the control arm, undoing the control arm and then lowering the control arm by slowly releasing the jack to release the spring tension and drop the spring from the upper perch. I've done it both ways and prefer using the spring tool just for peace of mind.
Do change out the strut mounts, spring pad, strut boots and the bump stop. Yes, you should get the front end aligned. |
Quote:
I do have the proper Mercedes internal compressor but don't see why you would need to remove the springs. Simply bracing the lower control arm with a floor jack should be sufficient I would think... I did order new shock mounts, one has razor like cracks around it. |
James, I used a floor jack under the lower control arm when changing front struts on our 1995 E320. Worked fine without any problems. Be sure to have an alignment done at your local MB dealer after the installation.
|
I've done 201 and 124 shocks with a floor jack. And when I tried to change my front SPRINGS, I removed the shock, and unbolted the sway bar and the control arm cannot go down far enough to even begin to let the spring unseat, let alone pop out. I wouldn't be worried about it.
|
Hrm..
I might forgo the alignment for a bit. I was planning on replacing the lower control arms down the road after the 300D is on the road. After that I was going to get it aligned. I didnt think the shocks would effect alignment hugely. I should have the 300D back up on the road end of the weekend or so. |
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:58 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website