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#1
09-13-2012, 03:10 PM
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Brake job on 91 560SEL - should I replace bearings?
I"m about to do a complete brake job on the 1991 560SEL (new rotors, new pads, new brake lines and brake fluid flush and replace). The manual says to replace the five bolts that hold the brake rotor to the hub. Is that necessary? Also, should I replace the wheel bearings?
Thanks for any help! 
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#2
09-13-2012, 04:29 PM
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There are 5 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, besides the 5 lug bolts?
My 1991 300CE had just one small allen set screw to hold the rotor on while the 5 lug bolts did the real holding. Changing rotors often calls for new caliper bolts. For the bearings I would say to leave them alone unless they are making noise.
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#3
09-13-2012, 07:06 PM
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With the age of the car, at least inspecting and relubing the bearings is needed. Grease tends to get moved away from the rollers causing them to run dry even though little / no grease was lost from the hub.
Also grease gets pushed out between the spindle and inner race then allowing fretting damage to occur. If the outer bearing race has a even silver color, it can go again, as it wears it gets darker gray then blueish.
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#4
09-13-2012, 09:02 PM
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You do not need to replace the bolts, but a little blue loctite is in order and torque them the same as the lug bolts, 85 ft/lbs. Also clean the scale from the hub where the rotor makes contact. Do not replace the wheel bearings unless there is obvious damage, which is unlikely. Plan to re-pack the wheel bearings and replace the wheel bearing seals. FWIW I prefer regular wheel bearing grease over the synthetic.
__________________
 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff
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#5
09-13-2012, 09:16 PM
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If you regrease the bearings MAKE SURE TO GET ALL THE OLD GREASE OUT. I mean soaking them in degreaser overnight. This is very important not to mix two different kinds of grease.
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth
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#6
09-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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How many miles on the bearings? If it's over 120k, I would.
__________________
Prost! 
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#7
09-14-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
No, you do not have to replace the bolts that hold the hub to the rotor. Just clean them and use new blue thread lock. You do not have to replace the bearings, I usually have on my cars as I figure they have been in there for the longest...but I am sure a good repack would be more than sufficient. A full W126 brake job is not that difficult, but not a cake walk. Make sure you have a dial indicator to set the end play on the fronts!
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#8
09-14-2012, 11:51 PM
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Thank you to everyone for your replies. Looks like I need to pick up a dial indicator and at the minimum new seals. I have never packed or dealt with wheel bearings before so this will be a challenge. This job may require at least a keg to help get me through.......you know, turn the wrench some, drink some beer, screw around with the car a bit more, then drink some more beer......
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#9
09-14-2012, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Cut through grease and dirt with Purple Power.
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#10
09-15-2012, 08:35 AM
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Use denatured alcohol or plain old paint thinner to degrease the bearings. Don't use one of the "magical, cleans all and everything" de-greaser/cleaners as many of them will etch the polished bearing surfaces or the bearing cage material.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now
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#11
09-15-2012, 10:55 AM
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__________________
Prost!
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#12
09-15-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Repacking a wheel bearing is not difficult but it takes awhile and is a little messy. After cleaning the old bearings, double check for any grease in the 'nooks and crannies'. If necessary clean more. Now using your thumb force new grease into the bearing from the inside. Keep working more grease in until you see it oozing out of the outside in the gaps between the carrier and the bearings. Then rotate slightly and repeat. Note that only the grease which ends up inside the bearing counts.  Personally, when it comes to brakes I take the sober approach. Then after 3 high speed (60 mph +) test stops on a open road, go home and have a drink.
__________________
Good luck. 1998 E320 Wagon
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#13
09-18-2012, 01:33 PM
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For bearing life, the bearings themselves are not as important as the grease, seals, and proper seating and operating clearance. If you don't goof up on any of these parameters, the bearing should last a long, long time.
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