No start all the time now & key is a little sticky in the tumbler now too.

There is a single pin connector by the brake booster in the engine bay. This is the power connector from the ignition switch to the starter's solenoid. With the key turned to position "II" (run)...there should be +12V here right, BUT I am only getting +3.95V (obviously not enough).

I disconnect this connector & applied +12V to the connector that is connected to the starter's solenoid & I could start the car this way.

So can I assume this means the no start problem is on ignition switch/tumbler side rather than the starter????

EDIT: Car is 86' 190E 2.3L

There should be no voltage there in run, only in start, dah.

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Haha, good point.

I get constant 3.95V in "run" & "start".....something is not right here.

So, can I assume the starter is ok?

__________________
86' 190E 2.3L

Well, the parts arrived. I bought a aftermarket Febi ignition tumbler (didn't want to paid $200 for a matched key to VIN one from dealer in Canada) & a Mercedes ignition switch (this was cheap from online).

After some thought, this is the only way I can explain what might be happening.......

With the tumbler out and I use my key to turn the switch, I can start the car every time this way. So therefore I rule out the switch.

Even though the tumbler turns, seems to work just fine. But it has some play (worn), I can wiggle the key left & right without the tumbler being turned at all. With that in mind, I turn the key to start the car..I think the tumbler doesn't turn all the way to have the switch make contact to start the car.

MB has conveniently provided this single pin plug by the firewall near the brake booster for easy access to the starter's solenoid. One end is connected to the solenoid, the other to the fuel pump relay's pin #12.

With the "OLD" tumbler still installed, by turning the key to either "run" or "start"...I get +3.95V.

With "OLD" tumbler out, by turning the switch with the key, in "run" I get +3.95V & in "start" I get +12V.

With "NEW" tumbler installed, by turning the switch with the key, in "run" I get +3.95V & in "start" I get +12V.


As Arthur Dalton elegantly puts it & thanks to his PMs!

__________________
86' 190E 2.3L

See how loose the faceplate is. I can grab the faceplate and turn it left/right about 1/8" each way.

Also, I don't like how thick the key head cover is on the key (aftermarket Febi)...very hard to put on key ring. So I removed it & ordered some key head cover blanks to put on.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
86' 190E 2.3L

The key head covers arrived. Took me an hour to figure how to do it for the 1st key, the 2nd took 5 minutes.

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
86' 190E 2.3L

You are very lucky. When those tumblers get that worn they sometimes come apart not allowing the key to turn at all. Then you get to drill and cut it apart and wind up replacing the complete steering lock assembly. No fun at all

__________________
Mercedes Benz Master Tech - Retired