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  #1  
Old 08-25-2011, 07:40 AM
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1986 300E 5-speed no-start...

Obtained my fathers 300E back from my cousin who bought it from him a year ago(ish). Needed a new starter, and I have a 2.6L out of a '92 190E for parts so yanked the starter off that and swapped it out. Car rolls over fine but will not fire. Plugs are firing (pulled and checked) and they are getting wet with fuel, but it will not fire and go, not even a sputter and stall. I have checked all electrical connections, checked the fuse on the OVP, but it still will not fire. Kinda a shot in the dark but any suggestions on components to check? Any dash light indications that might help? Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 08-25-2011, 08:11 AM
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How long did the car sit? Is the fuel OLD?

If you remove a spark plug wire & operate the starter, do you have spark?
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  #3  
Old 08-25-2011, 08:20 AM
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Car sat for a few months with 93 oct in the tank. Pulled a few plugs and grounded them to the top of the block and got good spark.
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2011, 11:00 AM
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Update: Drained fuel and filled tank with fresh gas. primed the line via the pump relay (30 and 87), and connected it. Gave the key a few quick flicks to prime new fuel further and after awhile turned the key but it would just crank... no spit and stutter and stall, just rolled over. Still has spark.... if the issie was the CPS would there still be spark?
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:49 AM
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Also shot some starting fluid into the trottle body and still same thing...
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:16 PM
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Are you SURE you have spark at the plugs?
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:28 PM
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Yeah i pulled each plug and verified with my son turning the key. I am very.... "GRRR" about this because there is spark, air and fuel... but NO responce from the motor... I will be pulling the plugs and squirting a little bit of starter fluid into the chamber and see if that does SOMETHING.... ANYTHING... this has me very baffled.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:35 PM
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If putting a little gas or starting fluid down it's gullet doesn't even get it to spit and cough and you REALLY do have spark, then I would do a compression test on a cylinder or two. If compression is low it might be out of time, either cam or ignition. It seems HIGHLY unlikely, but that's what I would do next if I understand your statements correctly.

It would be quick and easy to do on one of these engines.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:41 PM
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I'll have to check that... now the ignition timing can be checked with a test light? anything special to disconnect 1st or just hook it up and check?

need to see what my ex did with my compression tester... THANK you for your replies!
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Last edited by ccb_v2; 09-08-2011 at 02:41 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-08-2011, 06:10 PM
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Hmm.. sounds like too much work. You should sell it to me for $100

Seriously though, follow Larry's advice and go from there. Goodluck and don't let anyone have that 5 spd 300E!
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2011, 03:21 PM
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So I've checked timing on older cars but how does one check timing on this one? Normally i'd connect the light to plug #1 and battery and crank it watching the light flash in a meter by pully... in some cases after disabling the ECM's auto timing ctrl feature... what do I do in this case? I searched forums but it just says to check it, not how...
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:07 PM
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Ok, post update. There is spark but it is very weak. Pulled distributor cap and rotor and they looked pretty rough. Cleaned them up and still have weak spark. What type plugs and gap size should be used? Also, did compression test and got the following:

Cyl1: 150 PSI / 10 Bar
Cyl2: 135 PSI / 9 Bar
Cyl3: 137 PSI / 9.5 Bar
Cyl4: 140 PSI / 9.5 Bar
Cyl5: 85 PSI / 6 Bar
Cyl6: 105 PSI / 7 Bar

With all plugs pulled for compression test I squirted a little starting fluid in the cylinders before popping plugs back in. Still just rolled over and over and over... didn't fire and sputter at all...
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:48 PM
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Have your son hold the accelerator to the floor, turn the key to start and hold for a few seconds. You be at the back and feel for exhaust while it is cranking. You should feel pulses of exhaust. If you don't feel any exhaust or it is a small amount and very smooth (no pulses) then the exhaust is plugged. Exhaust plugged = no start.
It took me 2 days to find a plugged exhaust the first time saw it. That was back in the late '70s.
For me, 1. Check for fire at plugs. 2. Check for and/or add fuel to intake. 3. Check for plugged exhaust. 4. Check compression.
Your compression is good enough for the engine to run and once started I'm sure it will even out.
An engine needs fire, fuel, compression, exhaust all at the correct time and it will run.

Paul
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmckechnie View Post
Have your son hold the accelerator to the floor, turn the key to start and hold for a few seconds. You be at the back and feel for exhaust while it is cranking. You should feel pulses of exhaust. If you don't feel any exhaust or it is a small amount and very smooth (no pulses) then the exhaust is plugged. Exhaust plugged = no start.
It took me 2 days to find a plugged exhaust the first time saw it. That was back in the late '70s.
For me, 1. Check for fire at plugs. 2. Check for and/or add fuel to intake. 3. Check for plugged exhaust. 4. Check compression.
Your compression is good enough for the engine to run and once started I'm sure it will even out.
An engine needs fire, fuel, compression, exhaust all at the correct time and it will run.

Paul
Will check that. Pulled distributor cap and rotor and cleaned them up... noticed the cap center should have a nipple of sorts sticking out to contact the rotor... but mine looks like: http://i.imgur.com/HCXqDvi.jpg

Got a new cap on its way... will see what improvement that makes... new plug wires too.
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  #15  
Old 03-06-2013, 04:17 PM
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Also those compression numbers looks a tad low. Specially cyl #5.

When i did my 89. I got 160+ on all cylinders.
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