wiring question - 1995 W124

[tivoliman]

The neighbor dinged my Driver's door, and we had it fixed.

Well, the shop did great body work and a paint job but broke some of the electrical.

• Now when the driver's door opens the interior light does not come on.
• When the key is in the ignition, and the passenger door opens then the buzzer sounds

Sound like they crossed some wires.

Please suggest where the wires may be that I can put them back correctly, or suggest where I may find a wiring diagram

Where is the one place both door wires are plugged in?

Thanks

[Gilly]

If the passenger door is opened does the light come on?

[Ferdman]

Bill, have the body shop correct the wiring problem. Why would the shop have disconnected the wiring in the first place? There should be no reason to remove the door from the car. From my experience top notch body shops blend paint work into adjacent panels and avoid repainting one door, fender, etc.

[pwogaman]

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Bill, have the body shop correct the wiring problem. Why would the shop have disconnected the wiring in the first place? There should be no reason to remove the door from the car. From my experience top notch body shops blend paint work into adjacent panels and avoid repainting one door, fender, etc.

X2

[tivoliman]

Originally Posted by Gilly

If the passenger door is opened does the light come on?

As a matter of fact - the driver door light stays off when the door is open, and passenger door has the lights come on when the passenger door is open. and when the keys are in the ignition or when the headlights are on.

So the passenger door has the performance of the driver door, and the driver door has no performance.

[tivoliman]

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Bill, have the body shop correct the wiring problem. Why would the shop have disconnected the wiring in the first place? There should be no reason to remove the door from the car. From my experience top notch body shops blend paint work into adjacent panels and avoid repainting one door, fender, etc.

The shop did an excelent job with painting and such. But the damage was limited to the door, so the door was replaced witha used door - but looks great.

I'm thinking their skill is with body work - not electronic.

[Ferdman]

Bill, thanks for explaining that the damaged door was replaced. There was no indication of that in your first post. The body shop is still responsible to return your car to you in working order. Reputable body shops have techs who are trained in electrical/mechanical systems perform that part of a repair. Replacing a door is not rocket science ... have the body shop fix the electrical problem you are having. The shop can hire someone to perform the repair if they don't have someone on their staff. Not sure how that body shop remains in business doing such poor quality work, unless they explained to you beforehand that the wiring may not be correct after they replaced the door.

[pwogaman]

The problem of the light should not be with the wiring to the door itself, but rather with the door pin switch on the "A" pillar.



The wires and vacuum tubing for the door pass right behind this switch and it is a real pain in the ass feeding it all through from the foot well area adjacent to parking brake to the opening in the "A" pillar.

I would not be surprised if the extent of the problem is the ground wiring connected to the pin switch was knocked off/loose by all the manipulations of the door wiring during the door change process. It is relatively easy to pull the pin switch out and check the connection; just squeeze the top and bottom parts and pull out. The check that your wires are connected.



Here is a thread on the switch itself. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/289097-door-light-buzzer-switch.html

[tivoliman]

I tool Ferdman's suggestion and stood my ground.

The car was at the shop for a total of three weeks, and between other cars, they looked at mine.

Well, with the wiring diagram I provided, they say they figured it out and said it was not accident related, they suggested it was a pre-existing condition.

I think it was fine before the accident, but while they were fumbling with the door replacement, the disconnected wires.

The final solution was simply described as wires that were disconnected.

Since they left the plastic cover off - it seems that the wires were under the steering wheel area.

The approach I talk was quiet and firm. with a blank stare. I stood there and said it worked before the accident and doesn't now, please address the issue.

The other thing I did was called the insurance company and posted information in the record. I did not ask the insurance company (NJM) to take any action, but wanted to leave a date trail of experiences, in the event this last time failed.

As a ironic funny - seems I'll be taking the car back yet again. The door handle wiggles. The bolts became loose (or not tightened again after the last repair)

This was such a frustrating experience. grr


Summary:
What I learned - have your Mercedes repaired at a Mercedes certified shop.

[tivoliman]

After all the repairs. The driver door seems to work just fine.

But - when the headlights are on, and the car turned off, should the buzzer sound if the passenger door is opened? The same with the key in the ignition - leave key in ignition, and open the passenger door - the buzzer sounds.

[RobertFini]

Originally Posted by tivoliman

After all the repairs. The driver door seems to work just fine.

But - when the headlights are on, and the car turned off, should the buzzer sound if the passenger door is opened? The same with the key in the ignition - leave key in ignition, and open the passenger door - the buzzer sounds.

Hi, Bill.

These functions only happen with the driver's door on my '94 E320T, not the passenger door; it definitely sounds to me like you have some wires crossed somewhere.

Best Regards,
Rob