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Considering purchasing a 380SL, things to look for
A guy locally is selling his 380SL because he claims the transmission is bad after 92000 miles. I'm skeptical. I only have experience with diesel w123s so am new to the R107. What are some common issues I should be looking for when checking the car out?
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1983 300CDT -- 177K |
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Thess cars have single chain motors and need changed about now. They are also known to have an expensive black Chrysler made A/C - Heater control which goes bad. If so replacement for just the part can be $2000.
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The climate control with the evil servo can be spotted if the control unit is large and the buttons are vertical. I think they stopped using that type in 1982.
Check for rust under the floors, in the rockers, and in the spare tire area. Does the car still have the hard top? Is the soft top decent? Since the transmission is shot, check the engine for leaks and things like hard starting, idle surging, valve train noises, etc...
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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Transmission
Thanks, will do.
How are the transmissions on these vehicles controlled? Mechanically, vacuum, electronically?? All of the above? The reason I ask is, often on w123 diesels, what seems like a major transmission problem –– slipping, flaring, hard shifting, etc. –– can be alleviated by a vacuum adjustment either at the modulator on the transmission or the VCV on the IP. Is this system similarly engineered (i.e. over-engineered)? In the w123 diesel world, transmission shops unfamiliar with these vehicles often jump straight to 'rebuild' because they are unaware how intricate the system was designed. From what I understand, the automatic transmission in the 380sl are quite similar to the 300d, but I'm just confirming.
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1983 300CDT -- 177K |
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Quote:
As far as rust goes, I haven't been able to get into it yet (it's parked at a transmission shop by the owner) but it looks decent from the outside. Will check rust when I look at the vehicle Hard top looks good. Again, haven't checked the soft top yet ... (is it mechanical or electric?) As far as engine goes ... will check when I meet with the owner. From what I understand the 380SL came either with a carburetor or an IP. What years do the differences in fueling systems correspond to, and/or which is less problematic? I'm guessing the carbed system is more preferable (at least it would be to me )
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1983 300CDT -- 177K |
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