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#1
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Hi,
My alt has died and at the local part shop they show two possible alternators. A 110amp or a 120amp. How do I tell which one is in there now? Or does it matter? Thanks in advance. Ian |
#2
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It would be printed on the alternator itself. If the price difference is slight, and the connections are the same, my as well upgrade
![]() -J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket ![]() Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#3
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Pelican Parts on this page lists and early and late alternator for this car, but as a US Import for 94 and 95, both as 115AMP. You want to know about parts, check the catalog, though it is true that the catalog does not cover your car exactly.
__________________
Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#4
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Thanks guys,
It's a $100 more but I'll grab the 120 amp version. Not so much cause I think I need the power but because it's in stock I'm hoping to get it installed on Sat. The procedure in the FSM looks pretty easy. Any surprise "gotcha's" I should know about? |
#5
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So... I've got a bit of a headscratcher.
My old belt tensioner was giving out and I had lots of slack in the pulley, battery wasn't charging. I replaced the belt tensioner. Now the belt was tight but still no charge. I pulled the alt, had it bench tested (it was not charging) and replaced it with a rebuilt 120 amp alternator. Now, the new alt is in, belt is reasonably tight, but I'm not getting a charge. Battery reads 12.4 with the car turned off. At 3000 rpm and lights on I get 11.65 It seems unlikely the rebuilt Alt is dead right out of the box. Is there something I'm missing? I've replaced plenty of alternators in other vehicles and never run into this. I have not yet pulled the battery clamps and cleaned the connections, but given that the battery takes a charge from a plugin charger, I can't see that the connections could be so bad that the alt wouldn't charge. Help a guy out, cause if I bench test the alt and it's fine then there's gonna be some cuss words flying. Many thanks, |
#6
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assuming its the same 2 wire bosch alternator most benzes of that era used - do you have the battery indication on the cluster when you switch on the key?
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#7
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I'm happy to report a successful fix.
With the advice of Zulfiqar, I was able to test my alt to make sure it was good, then do some better research which led me to this thread: 89 300e charging sytem and dash lights - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum Turns out the wire from the 2nd terminal of my alt to the x4/10 junction had failed. A quick replacement and everything is working as it should. The hardest part of the fix was printing the wiring diagram and then figuring out where the junction box was. Cheers, |
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