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Are all multimeters the same?
New to MB's, looks like I need a multimeter to check my 91'300E for idle issues. Is there a certain one/brand that everybody prefers or are they all the same? Thanks, OLY
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They are not all the same. The <10 dollar Harbor Freight one (sometimes as low as two bucks on sale) will do basic DC and AC volts and resistance, but not with great accuracy. I have one and it's good enough for working on W123's. From there they range up into Flukes with four figure prices that do all kinds of stuff including AC frequency measurement. A Navy Reserve colleague of mine who is an agricultural equipment mechanic in his regular job has a $1700 Fluke that you can take over small countries with. I think it also doubles as an oscilloscope. I'm not sure what parameters you'll have to measure to troubleshoot your 300E. If you know from reading the FSM what you'll need to measure, check with various tool dealers to find what you'll need at a price you can live with.
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Get an automotive multimeter.
There as special ones that have dwell angle. duty cycle, temperature, RPM etc etc. You should be able to buy one for less than $100 from an electronics store. |
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Speaking of Fluke, I just got a couple of Flukes from a guy who owed me some money and his business went on the rocks. They come in a case, have all manuals, I would check it out in advance. $100 plus shipping, I know that's about 30% new cost. If anyone is interested, PM me. Thanks PS I use one for myself. They are very good for charging systems, because they are very sensitive and have large-scale ranges. |
This is the one that I use. I think you'll find that it covers most things you would check on these cars
Triplett 9045 True RMS Digital Multimeter with Temperature, Capacitance and Frequency: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific |
I use several diffrent ones:
The one I use most is the old Fluke. Rob |
I'm with Rob on the Fluke. I'v got an old model "73" which I've had for 15 years. It survived daily use in a diesel truck shop. It's so old the rubber around the test leads have all hardened and turned into something resembling porcelain. Still works. Maybe one of theses days I'll break down and buy some replacement leads, maybe...
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The basic inexpensive (Walmart) multimeters will pretty much do the things most people "know" how to do or are willing to learn to do.
That is read voltage or continuity (resistance). Might want to get one of those first and learn how to use it. (Keep it simple!) If you need some other function later (and are willing to do the reading to learn about it), then get a more advanced multimeter. |
A long time ago I bought a rather expensive multimeter with all the functions.
After two days I wanted to check a power supply fan of an Olivetti pc. The display of my new multimeter popped out of the case and was lying smoking upside down on the case. Apparently Olivetti used a 220Volt fan, and not 12Volt like all the others. I replaced it with a more basic but indestructible Fluke 75, after 25 years it is still working great. Rob. |
Thank you to everybody's input, very helpful. OLY
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I too am a Fluke proponent. But when I ponied up for my Fluke, I also did so for a high quality set of leads and clips, silicon rubber with assorted ends, etc. It is very frustrating when you are by yourself to try to put two leads on widely separated things, like one in the engine compartment and one under the dash. You have to have a lead which will clip on in those cases, and there are a variety of clip types.
Just a suggestion but worth the extra expense IMHO. Rgds, Chris W. '95 E300D, 397K |
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