2000 E320 run and maintenance - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Zulfiqar · #1 07-29-2013, 03:24 PM

as Ive bought a 2000 E320 for scooting around, I thought it would be good to do some maintenance on it.

a discount code popped up for Advance auto that made a 50 dollar deal into a 30 dollar deal and I got myself 12 spark plugs and a fleece type oil filter.

replaced the oil with the 5W40 rotella I had and a new fleece filter - I had to armwrestle the filter stalk off the engine as THE HULK had tightened it before - I dont believe the HULK had much IQ because the old filter was not installed properly on the stalk - it left about half of the inner screen exposed.

Fresh oil really smoothed out the engine (it does have a weird starting noise - like a new toyota/lexus V6 has, sounds like its dry at startup)

- I have heard E350s do that too.

changed the transmission electrics pilot bushing with new MOPAR boxed part, cheap as chips

- old one with red rings was leaking fluid into harness.

btw anyone planning to replace that - I recommend to do it on a stone cold engine, find your inner chi and use green transmission assembly goo - It literally plops into place with it.

after all this - and 300 miles of driving I opened up the exp cap for coolant, cap is clean - but I see about 1/8 inch of oil floating on it. Its brown and I cannot identify what it is, the ATF is brown too (leaves a brown stain on paper towels rather than red) and so was the old engine oil.

The car does not overheat, runs strong as an ox, transmission shifts crisp, no abnormal engine sound other than the startup sound. There was no water emulsion in the transmission fluid that drained when I changed the connector bushing. The fluid level is correct (checked with DIY tool), engine does not blow smoke, no emulsion in crankcase/vents/breather etc, no oil leaks and no consumption.

Anyone want to guide me on how to diff between motor oil and ATF if both are same color.

Gilly · #2 07-29-2013, 09:00 PM

The motor oil and atf don't really have a place where they would mix, the coolant and trans fluid can, in the radiator.
The atf gets black due to grapite in the friction plates, it's not a problem if it is dark, only if it smells burned or has metal in the pan or fluid.
Did your pan have the magetic pad in the bottom?

pawoSD · #3 07-29-2013, 09:06 PM

5w40 rotella is not the correct oil for that engine, the M112 engine was designed to be used with a 0w40 high grade synthetic like Mobil 1.

RichardM98 · #4 07-29-2013, 09:25 PM

You are right that the pink color of ATF fades pretty quickly to brown and resembles motor oil. Place drop of your motor oil and a drop of your trans fluid on a piece of paper towel and spray it with an alkaline all purpose cleaner like Fantastik. The ATF will bleed pink.

Your W210 has a built in diagnostic system to monitor your oil and remind you of when to change it. It's called FSS and is covered in the OM. To take advantage of the extended service cycle you need to use a polyester fleece filter (Mann 718/5x) and a MB approved synthetic oil (MB 229.3 or 229.5) such as Mobil 1 Syn 0W-40 European Car Formula as mentioned above.

Zulfiqar · #5 07-30-2013, 08:54 AM

I do know the 0W40 is what is recommended in the USA, wallymart has it on sale now, The rotella T-6 is also a low ash oil and is API SM (gasoline) grade so it wont hurt it if I use it for about 5000 or 6000 miles - most European fleets running this engine use such oils with no side effects. I'll pick up two bottles of the mobil 1 and keep it stashed for next use. btw the vicsosity chart for this engine also has 20W50 oils - and it falls right in place for the climate Im in right now, its 85 even at midnight - usually 100 all day long.

anyway, I did the paper towel blotch test, the oil floating in the coolant is bleeding brown and so is my ATF (I think its genuine MB 722.6 ATF - which is supposed to be straw colored). I will try to get a sample sent over for diagnosis to what it is actually and install a dedicated atf cooler just in case - because I dont want engine coolant to end up in the trans.

RichardM98 · #6 07-30-2013, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

I do know the 0W40 is what is recommended in the USA, wallymart has it on sale now, The rotella T-6 is also a low ash oil and is API SM (gasoline) grade so it wont hurt it if I use it for about 5000 or 6000 miles - most European fleets running this engine use such oils with no side effects. I'll pick up two bottles of the mobil 1 and keep it stashed for next use. btw the vicsosity chart for this engine also has 20W50 oils - and it falls right in place for the climate Im in right now, its 85 even at midnight - usually 100 all day long.

anyway, I did the paper towel blotch test, the oil floating in the coolant is bleeding brown and so is my ATF (I think its genuine MB 722.6 ATF - which is supposed to be straw colored). I will try to get a sample sent over for diagnosis to what it is actually and install a dedicated atf cooler just in case - because I dont want engine coolant to end up in the trans.

Lots of owners watch for sales on Mobil 1 and stock up.

The important number for oil viscosity is the first one. Based on how cold it gets at night a thinner oil makes starting easier. High daytime temperatures don't matter since it's much hotter in your engine than outdoors.

Yes you can use any good quality oil and paper filter. Just don't rely on the FSS for oil change intervals or you could end up with sludge in the engine. This happened to a few owners when the W210 was new because people misunderstood how FSS worked.

MB 5 speed ATF ( Part no. A001 989 21 03 10 ) is red. After time it fades but the indicator is still present. Applying something alkaline will show the red color. Beware all purpose cleaners based on citric acid will not work for the test.

ps2cho · #7 07-30-2013, 11:20 AM

I am seriously hoping you dont have coolant in the transmission. It is a widely known issue. Replace the radiator immediately if it is original.

I replaced mine with a new Nissens as soon as we bought the car. No way am I risking the transmission from blowing up for $170. I also had blackstone labs oil test the transmission fluid for coolant to be safe and it came up OK so I got lucky but there are plenty of nightmare stories with the stock Valeo radiator during that time frame and MB never admitted to fault about it. I would highly suggest you replace the radiator regardless.

And for what its worth, 0-40 Mobil1 is the correct oil for the M112 if you have the FSS...I dont believe that oil is approved by MB.

Zulfiqar · #8 07-30-2013, 01:42 PM

im packing a sample right now for blackstone, and yes the car has the original valeo radiator in it. About the engine oil - the datenblatt 229.3 and 5 have a bunch of oils - they then further define what can be used instead.

so technically API SM 5W40 oil is applicable to use - as my ambient minimum temperature is 85F for the next projected 6000 miles. To keep it nice and clean I used a purolator L25277 filter which is fleece type.

anyway - Im doing the fantastik sprayed on the ATF test - and its still bleeding brown or im colorblind - going to ask my co-worker - LADY to see, Ive heard ladies can see more colors than men.

Zulfiqar · #9 07-30-2013, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

I am seriously hoping you dont have coolant in the transmission. It is a widely known issue. Replace the radiator immediately if it is original.

I replaced mine with a new Nissens as soon as we bought the car. No way am I risking the transmission from blowing up for $170. I also had blackstone labs oil test the transmission fluid for coolant to be safe and it came up OK so I got lucky but there are plenty of nightmare stories with the stock Valeo radiator during that time frame and MB never admitted to fault about it. I would highly suggest you replace the radiator regardless.

And for what its worth, 0-40 Mobil1 is the correct oil for the M112 if you have the FSS...I dont believe that oil is approved by MB.

The odd bit is that most valeo failures are of W211 models - with some oddball cases of W210 too.

RichardM98 · #10 07-30-2013, 06:14 PM

Well this is a little embarrassing. Last time I did this it was several years ago so I redid the test. It is the Mobil 1 which gives the red color not the ATF. Sorry for the confusion. Still a good way to check if a leak is oil or ATF.

MAVA · #11 07-30-2013, 08:52 PM

Z..

Everybody says to use 0w40, but I have found on my cars it darkens-up quicker, and pings longer in the morning on cold days, so I went to another grade specified in the manual. Of the top of my head. I cannot remember the grade. I'll have to check the grade(the info is not near me)

I do not use 0w40...

Martin

Zulfiqar · #12 07-31-2013, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardM98

Well this is a little embarrassing. Last time I did this it was several years ago so I redid the test. It is the Mobil 1 which gives the red color not the ATF. Sorry for the confusion. Still a good way to check if a leak is oil or ATF.

That yellowed brown is the exact color of oil I have floating in the coolant tank. I cannot sense a smell of it as it has no smell when on the paper towel and the tank smells like regular antifreeze.

so Im still on the fence of installing just a new radiator or install a new radiator and a dedicated atf cooler too. I am ordering a new nissens item now, but its literally quite amazing that I have atf in the coolant but not the other way round. I also cannot seem to find many w210 cases of failed atf cooler in the radiator, nearly all cases of such failure are in the W211.

RichardM98 · #13 07-31-2013, 10:25 AM

I've been on these boards for several years and don't recall many (none?) radiator failures on W210s. The only DIY on replacement involved someone who hit a 5gal pail while driving.

Gilly · #14 07-31-2013, 11:32 PM

The atf will go in to the coolant in the case of a cooler leak, never heard of it the other way around. Never thought about it much as far as why, but one can assume way more pressure in the cooler than in the radiator. ~15psi (cooling system) vs ??

Zulfiqar · #15 08-01-2013, 09:04 AM

the cooler is not under much pressure internally, the radiator is under 20 psi when the coolant gauge is at 90C.

I assume that the construction of the cooler makes it such. BUT there are hordes of W211 owners who have faced coolant in the transmission - The toyota and nissan truck owners also have faced $4000 bills to replace their watered transmission from cooler failure.

Those guys stick a big air ATF cooler upfront and call it a day. Im thinking of this too but get confused on the heat exchange capability of it compared to the original intank cooler (which is plate type too and water has at least 10 times the cooling potential of air)