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#16
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Now that its been mentioned, i noticed the oil pressure guage reads around 1 when at operating temp.
I dont disagree with the ihuh of getting the car inspected, however i am a quite handy DIYer. I found the harmonic balancer job not too hard on my 89 once i got the hang of it. So... Guides and tensioner huh.. Full timing cover top to bottom must come off? If this became a money pit id just sell it before i spend to much on it. |
#17
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Not a "money pit" more of a money "sponge".
"Mmm, sure have got the beast running fine, ya know, that interior looks a bit tatty, I bet I can get another one pretty cheap, just take a little time to change it out. So THAT'S what the rattle is, let's see, while I've got it apart I could fix this..." 'Tis a slippery slope yer on son! We've all done it and most of us are still doing it. Owner of a (purchase prices) 1971 $300.00 250C, 1974 $250.00 280C and a 1985 $300.00 500SEL, all mostly restored to the tune of most of my sanity, gad knows how many man hours and no way I'll even compute the parts costs.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#18
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Quote:
To replace the guides is not a big deal. To get the crumbled bits out of the bottom of the oil pan; engine must be lifted or pulled to be able to remove the oil pan.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#19
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Oh ok, so if im not reading low oil pressure while accel then Im "OK" as far as chain guides go?
Also, a new noise has just started. Its a mild tapping ticking noise, doesnt really go with the rpms I dont think and it comes and goes. I can hear the sound bouncing off other cars, and sometimes as I slow to come to a light. What could this be? I have to take a look at the car today, I lost a lugbolt and my front suspension is very squeeky. Call me crazy, but I think due to putting the wheels from my 89 on with the longer lugbolts that came on the 91, its causing issues. Edit: Just had a look. Appears as though I have a slight exhaust manifold leak which would cause some ticking. Also, my water pump pully is a bit wobbly... cause of the whiring straining sound when I accelerate? Last edited by 244brick; 08-25-2013 at 04:53 PM. |
#20
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You must drain your fule ,, ive been working on my w123 , it was parked for at least 3 yrs , started it up last july with great preformance, but didnt change the fule or its filter , so now i have major stalling and power loss problems , it stalls every 2mins and never rev over 2000rpm , so .. Beaware
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#21
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You must drain your fuel ,, ive been working on my w123 , it was parked for at least 3 yrs , started it up last july with great preformance, but didnt change the fule or its filter , so now i have major stalling and power loss problems , it stalls every 2mins and never rev over 2000rpm , so .. Beaware
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#22
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Oil pressure numbers indicate BAR. 1 BAR is one atmosphere, 14.5 psi. Thats not really anything to worry about with a hot idle. If your unsure, connect a calibrated mechanical gauge directly to the engine and read the actual to confirm. But if it instantly rises to 3 (43 psi approx), no worries.
Fine line between low mileage cars that sit, and high mileage cars that are driven. If you drive them they wear out. If you dont drive them, seals detierioate, oil dries up, parts rust internally. Fire up a machine that's sat a while and all kinds of stuff can occur. Or not. Its kind of a roll of the dice and depends on how long it sat, temperature fluctuations, humidity, etc.. IOW, not uncommon to see a water pump puke after a car sat a while. I have seen differentials with rust on the internals that sat above the oil (transmissions too, BTW). And there is a reason that motors freeze in position, after a while. Cars that have sat long periods are well known to self destruct shortly after coming out of the coma in what appeared to be good health. Not all, but enough to make some of us cautious. Just drive it and fix what breaks until it settles down, or you can no longer handle it. |
#23
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Ozark, not to split hairs, but 1 atmosphere is actually 14.7 psi.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#24
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Actually...
1 Bar = 14.5038 psi ~> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bar_(unit) 1 ATM = 14.695 948 775 5134 I was just rounding anyway. BAR and ATM are both based on variations of sea level atmospheric air pressure. The oil gauge reads BAR. Its a lot easier to multiply 14.5 in your head, than 14.7. The French came up with ATM, and while technically more accurate to air pressure, BAR is just simpler. Probably why its taken precedence. Personally however, I would prefer the gauge read PSI. Last edited by Ozarkdude; 08-27-2013 at 08:11 PM. |
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