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-   -   97 w210 a/c not working (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=345758)

dubadaddy 11-02-2013 12:19 PM

97 w210 a/c not working
 
Had an indie charge the system about 6 weeks ago and a/c was running great...1997 E420

My wife says a/c is not working again and I am looking through the forums and saw the climate control fault codes...I don't know enough of this, that is how to diagnose without taking back to an indie.

I looked at the climate control and put on "HI" and "Lo" and pushed "Rest and EC" and got the following:

1 = 19
2 = 14
3 = 32
4 = 26
5 = 23
6 = 68
7 = 02
8 =26
9 = 05
10 = 0.0
11 = 0.6
12 = 4.0
20 = 0.0
21 = 00
22= 00
23 = 00
24 =11.5
40 = 71
41 = 34
42 = 00
43 = 152

Error Code E61 = 234

These are all at the "Rest" button....don't know what any of it means and would like to try to fix myself if I can....

Help please?

RichardM98 11-02-2013 03:35 PM

Value #7 is your compressor pressure. It should be 7-9 bar. Chances are the freon charge is low due to a leak. A competent A/C tech would do a leak down test before charging a system. A/C work is generally not DIY work. Another less likely possibility when the compressor won't run is a bad temp/pressure sensor. Those were subject to moisture contamination on early W210's.

TMAllison 11-02-2013 08:42 PM

I'd agree its probably a leak with the pressure as low as it is 6 weeks after filling. The system is variable pressure so that isn't a guarantee.

Code EB 1234 is the sun sensor. I think every E class made has that code present. Ignore it.

dubadaddy 11-02-2013 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardM98 (Post 3232639)
Value #7 is your compressor pressure. It should be 7-9 bar. Chances are the freon charge is low due to a leak. A competent A/C tech would do a leak down test before charging a system. A/C work is generally not DIY work. Another less likely possibility when the compressor won't run is a bad temp/pressure sensor. Those were subject to moisture contamination on early W210's.


Evap or A/C Refrig Pressure sensor?

Yes, I agree about the leak down test. Don't know if it would shown up at the time....I always seem to get a weird answer like "wasn't there when we filled the system" type thing. I wish I could take it to a good indie that specialized in A/C in So Cal but don't know of any....here in SD county... I will have to investigate.

dubadaddy 11-02-2013 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison (Post 3232764)
I'd agree its probably a leak with the pressure as low as it is 6 weeks after filling. The system is variable pressure so that isn't a guarantee.

Code EB 1234 is the sun sensor. I think every E class made has that code present. Ignore it.


Sorry the code is Eb1 = 234 or 23five....

RichardM98 11-03-2013 08:30 AM

IIRC, the sensor (combo) is located at the drier.

Finding a good A/C tech can be a challenge. If you've had good results with a MB tech ask them. Ask at several shops and see if any name comes up more than once. Some MB sites have a service recommendation forum so post there. There are plenty of W210 owners in SD so ask around if you meet someone. Comments like 'I didn't see' which aren't followed by 'let me check with the guy who did' should be a red flag.

97 SL320 11-03-2013 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubadaddy (Post 3232831)
Evap or A/C Refrig Pressure sensor?

Yes, I agree about the leak down test. Don't know if it would shown up at the time....I always seem to get a weird answer like "wasn't there when we filled the system" type thing. I wish I could take it to a good indie that specialized in A/C in So Cal but don't know of any....here in SD county... I will have to investigate.


AC leaks can be very hard to find. Not only are you dealing with varying pressures, you are dealing with varying temperatures, vibration , engine moving around, areas you can't see as well. These changes can allow a leak to open up that isn't there at room temp.

Also, if the system was discharged for a long time and a leak fixed, the next weakest area might start leaking.

If the AC tech told the customer that all the hoses need to be replaced as they might be the source of a leak, the customer would scream rip off.

A 6 week run time tells me that the leak is pretty small ( unless something big recently let go .)

Steve M 11-10-2013 09:55 AM

look for leak using UV dye
 
Did the indie who charged it 6 weeks ago tell you that he added dye to help diagnose a leak? That's a common approach that even a DIYer can do by getting a can of R134 with dye at any autoparts store, and add to the system. If you can add a can to a system with too little refrigerant to trigger the pressure sensor, the sytem will work again for awhile, which will tell you something.

If he did put dye in it, you can look for the leak using a UV light and maybe goggles. But leaks can be in hard to find places (evaporator, back of condenser).

If it did leak (which is a safe assumption), and it doesn't have dye in it, there may still be oil visible where your problem is (the ac system circulates oil with the refrigerant, and they can leak out together).

Ferdman 11-10-2013 12:31 PM

Norm, recently had a new evaporator and a rebuilt compressor installed in our 1998 E320 which would only hold a refrigerant charge for a month or so. Our local MB dealer did the job for $4,000 ... expensive, but well worth the money for the job to be done properly the first time. Our 1998 E320 is in mint condition with low mileage so it made sense for us to spend the money. Your vehicle's condition may dictate another less expensive temporary fix ... like recharging the system regularly.


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