Hey everyone, as my other post said I just bought a new W140 S500. It has 78,000 miles. From dealer history the coolant has been flushed, the tranny fluid has been flushed, oil changes, etc. I am trying to figure out what preventative maintenance I should be thinking about at this point?

I was doing some searching, and I saw a few posts about a plastic heater hose T that breaks...I will replace that. I plan on cycling out the power steering fluid and brake fluid. Do I need to do anything with the hydraulic suspension (this one does have the separate reservoir for it so I know it has the hydraulic system)? What kind of fluid should I be putting in there, and is there a procedure for flushing it out? Thanks for any tips!

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97 S500 (90,000 miles) - wife's car
87 300D (298,000 miles and a replacement #14 head)
94 Suburban K2500 - need something to haul firewood
83 300SD (343,000 miles) (sold)

I've never found a service interval for PS/Suspension fluid. I changed my out after buying the car. Mine had a filter on the bottom of the reservoir cap and I changed that. The part number of the fluid was embossed on the cap as well. Probably discontinued but there would be a newer PN. The system recirculates. Some have disconnected the return line (top of cap) and flushed it out that way (engine running). Be careful as the filter provides back pressure. Without it, you may get an unwanted oil shower. I just changed the filter and sucked out the reservoir a couple of times and called it a day. If you aren't having any problem, there is no rush.

FYI - For late model MB cars, brake flush is every two years and coolant flush is every three years.

Enjoy the ride, the W140 has to be one of the best MB's ever made.

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Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon

Change that tee, and ONLY buy it from the dealer-It needs to be fresh on....-No ebay,aftermarkt,craiglist, or used ones..

Change your thermostat and overflow tank cap...

I have two cars with SLS and I like that feature...

I do a fluid exchange on the SLS. It is the same stuff for the SL softtop...I have a process it is on my other computer. I will post it later..My method is done from the top not the bottom..

Martin

Sounds good! My wife dropped it by the dealer to check on a suspension squeak that we noticed on our test drive (since the seller said he would pay for it). The found that one control arm needs to be replaced. They also found that the insulation in the transmission tunnel is sagging and there is a hefty price tag to replace that. Has anyone else successfully re-suspended the insulation without having to replace the whole pad? I tried searching online but didn't come up with a whole lot. I'll probably look underneath tonight.

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97 S500 (90,000 miles) - wife's car
87 300D (298,000 miles and a replacement #14 head)
94 Suburban K2500 - need something to haul firewood
83 300SD (343,000 miles) (sold)

If the transmisssion tunnel padding is like the padding on a late W124 E300D like mine I just propped it back with some scrap lightweight aluminium sheet as washers.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Great idea! I'll look at it tonight and see what I find.

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97 S500 (90,000 miles) - wife's car
87 300D (298,000 miles and a replacement #14 head)
94 Suburban K2500 - need something to haul firewood
83 300SD (343,000 miles) (sold)

Okay,

Here is the process for the SLS, read all of it, but it is on post 16.

please someone help me..they're killing my pocket!! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

About your insulation, I have the same problem. Mine is rubbing on where the flex disk is at. I too have thought of replacing it, but it is a pain to remove because of what I think is the 3/4" diameter parking brake cable that is along the insulation.

I have my transmission out of my 1998 W140 as I am rebuilding it myself, and I will use a rivet gun with some thin wide fender washers.

MArtin

Thanks for the info! I will do that soon for the sls. After some deliberation, I decided to trim back the insulation only where it would potentially touch the driveshaft. I then took some extra dynamat I had and used some spray adhesive to provide some sound deadening where I pulled the insulation off the metal. I did not see any way to reattach or push up the insulation unless I drilled holes in the body above the driveshaft, which I was not going to do. I drove the car the last couple of days and did not notice an increase in noise. I am pretty satisfied for now.

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97 S500 (90,000 miles) - wife's car
87 300D (298,000 miles and a replacement #14 head)
94 Suburban K2500 - need something to haul firewood
83 300SD (343,000 miles) (sold)