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-   -   1993 300E 2.8L gas engine won't shut off (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=355275)

poorshman 05-23-2014 02:39 PM

1993 300E 2.8L gas engine won't shut off
 
I recently purchased a 1993 300E 2.8L. The car started right up, however, something was draining the battery and causing it to be dead overnight. I attempted to find the short by removing fuses from the fuse box under hood, one by one, and then testing for current draw at the battery. I checked all the fuses and found nothing wrong, but still had a draw at the battery. Then the car stopped starting. It would just turn over but not fire. I did some research on this site, and since my abs light stayed on constantly, I fiqured the OVP was the culprit. I got another OVP, Part # 201 540 32 45, put it in and the car started right up. The abs light still stayed on, but the car started, however, now it won't shut off with the key. To shut it off, I must pull the fuse from the OVP. Does the OVP control shut off? Should I have purchased an updated OVP with the two fuses, if so, what would be the part #? I suspect that the ignition switch may be bad but I wanted to confirm that the OVP isn't still bad before I rip out the dash to change the ignition switch. Anyone have any suggestions or should I just install a new ignition switch?

poorshman 05-25-2014 03:39 AM

1993 300E 2.8L gas engine won't shut off UPDATE
 
I found out today that when I turn the key to the off position, even though the engine doesn't shut off, all power to the windows, blower, sunroof, and radio is shut off. I would think that if the other power is being turn off, the engine should also be turning off and therefore the ignition switch is working and maybe something else is preventing the engine from shutting off. Is this possible? Does anyone out there have any input?

liquiddog 05-25-2014 10:39 AM

Most people have upgraded to the red top ovp. Just trying to help brainstorm... I checked my 190e wiring diagrams and it looks like two red/yellow wires come out of it (ignition switch). One goes to power distribution and the other to accessories.

Sounds like the ovp is still getting power when it shouldn't?

Edit: two wires come out of the ignition switch

liquiddog 05-25-2014 11:40 AM

Also if you do get a red top ovp only get it from a reputable source and ensure it isn't the Uro brand.

daddi 05-25-2014 05:13 PM

Try unplugging the alternator, if that works the alternator is fried.

poorshman 05-25-2014 07:58 PM

Thanks liquiddog,
I seem to think that I got a bad OVP also. The car started and shutoff fine before the OVP went out completely and the car wouldn't start. I know for sure the old OVP was bad since I opened it up and found one of the relays burnt. It doesn't make sense to me that if the ignition switch worked fine with the old OVP(before the relay fried) and I put in another OVP and the car won't shut off, that the ignition switch suddenly became bad. I have no problem changing the ignition switch, however, I do not want to rip out the dash and change the ignition switch and then still have the problem. I am going to get one of the updated OVP's first and if it doesn't solve the problem then I will change the ignition switch. I appreciate your response to my thread and I will post the outcome. Is a KAE OVP from Pelican Parts a good choice? Thanks again for your assistance, it is appreciated.

daddi 05-25-2014 08:06 PM

Only use original OVP.

Edward Wyatt 05-25-2014 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daddi (Post 3333509)
Try unplugging the alternator, if that works the alternator is fried.

This.

If the alternator is is back feeding, the car will not shut off.

daddi 05-25-2014 08:28 PM

I once made the mistake of hooking up a 87 alternator to a 93 M104 system, it was fun finding out why the engine wouldn't shut down.

liquiddog 05-25-2014 08:49 PM

The one I got was Kaehler (KAE) and I believe it to be OEM. Maybe somebody who has purchased one from the dealer can chime in on the branding. I haven't had a problem with mine.

daddi 05-25-2014 08:52 PM

I've seen them made by two companies, one in Austria and one in some east of the curtain company. The one from the east seems to last much longer.

liquiddog 05-25-2014 09:00 PM

I'd definitely test the alternator as others have suggested before putting a brand new ovp on. Technically the fuses should blow if something is pushing in too much voltage when it shouldn't, but...

poorshman 05-26-2014 02:57 AM

Thanks guys, I will try to disconnect the alternator later today and see if that shuts it off. I will post the results. Thanks again, you guys are great!

poorshman 05-26-2014 08:15 PM

Hi Guys: liquiddog, daddi, Edward Wyatt. I disconnected the alternator earlier today, the car started up but still won't shut off. My game plan is to get a new OVP and if that doesn't work then I'll rip out the dash and install a new ignition switch. Do you guys know a reputable place to get a dual fuse OVP at a reasonable price? I see that Pelican Parts has a KAE Brand OVP for $55.25, but I don't think it is a dual fuse OVP. I am going to be away later this week, so I don't know how soon I will get the new OVP installed, however, I would still like to order one ASAP. I will post the results once it is installed. Thank you all very much for spending your time to help me.

daddi 05-26-2014 09:23 PM

Did the car come with the two fuse OVP? To the best of my knowledge your car should have an OVP with a white top and one fuse. Inserting the wrong OVP can cause all sorts of mess.


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