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				300E conking out at idle
			 
			
			Hey all, been having an issue with my beloved 91 300E It happened when I was driving to work, everything was normal and had no warning of an issue when suddenly at a stop light, on a busy street she died out completely. I tried restarting and she would crank and try to start up but wouldn't. I had her towed home and assessed the situation the next day. The longer she sat, the longer she would run. If you hold the RPM's up she could run forever, but when shes at idle, she'll start to miss and then conk out. I had her towed to a indy and they told me it was the fuel pump and wanted 700$ to fix. But it really doesn't feel like a fuel pump issue to me. The pumps aren't making any wonky noise and I don't have a loss of power other than just idle. Today I put fuel system cleaner and fresh gas, drove her around the streets for 45 minutes and had a little "bumps" at idle here and there. But I made a sudden stop and she died out. So i tested it, every time I brake hard or suddenly she dies out  I feel like it's something electrical... Can anyone give me any leads of where to start? Thanks!   
				__________________ 76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			When was the Oxygen sensor replaced last?  I have experienced similar stalling issues with a faulty/worn out Oxygen sensor.
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ Fred Hoelzle | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Crank position sensor is bad.  Test and replace.  With a warm engine it should read about 700-900ohm on a multimeter.  If it reads outside this its faulty.
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ -diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			When was the last time you gave your car a tune up?  Cap rotor wires and plugs?  Start with the simple things first
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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				__________________ -diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			With genuine wires I was able to get 5 years. Bosch cap and rotor last about 3 or so years, spark plugs every year.    Buying quality ignition parts is a must on these cars otherwise they go bad rather quick.
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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				Thank you for the replies!
			 
			
			Thanks guys for the replies, I took your advice and started with the simple stuff and may have possibly found the problem. I've done maintenance with this car, wires, plugs, fuel filters but somehow I just happened to forget about my distributor cap and rotor   Well I read what you all put and decided to check it out. The same cap and rotor have been on the car since we bought it 5 years ago  and who knows how long it was on before that... Popped it off and this is what I found.. Needless to say i'll be ordering the parts today!      
				__________________ 76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Wow, I have never seen a distributor cap and rotor in such horrible condition.  I am eager to hear how the engine runs after installing new Bosch parts.
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ Fred Hoelzle | 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
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				__________________  1993 190E 2.3 2001 SLK230 1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible | 
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			#11  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Wow!! How was that engine even still functioning?  That is the worst condition cap/rotor I've ever seen.    
				__________________ -diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) | 
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			#12  
			
			
			
			
			
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 I sometimes think that people have a masochistic streak and they want the problems to be serious and costly. I've fallen into the same trap myself. Do let us know how it goes after you've installed your pristine new distributor bits! RayH | 
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			#13  
			
			
			
			
			
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				mechanical problem
			 
			
			The pictures posted by Jordaan dmc looks more like a mechanical failure, as if something migrated and started rubbing.I would take it apart after installing the new parts after a few miles just to see if the new parts are holding up without damage. There is no reason a cap and rotor should be eating each other up because of contact.
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ 88 W124 3.0 96 R129 119eng 06 ML350 98 ML320 sold 02 CLK55 amg | 
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			#14  
			
			
			
			
			
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| Quote: 
 RayH | 
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			#15  
			
			
			
			
			
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				what the h mang...
			 
			
			Well, today I got the parts in for my 300E, couldn't wait to get off with work and put them in to see if I could finally drive her again without issue. Got home, opened the box, everything looked good and I went to the install. I had to get the metal post off the old rotor arm since the new one didn't come with it. The three bolts holding it in would just not budge and were stripping, sprayed tons of nuts off and it did nothing.. I tried the manual way with a grip wrench and it only cracked the plastic it's in there so tight. MASSIVE disappointment... The car gods just didn't want me to repair today... Called Mercedes to see if I could order the parts so they could be in tomorrow. I'm told parts just closed at 7... look down and it's 7:02   But I noticed the ceramic? plate that lies against the metal backing has a crack in it.. Not sure if this will affect the performance, but something inside me tells me to just get a new one just to be safe... Should I or is this something that wouldn't affect anything? Please see pictures below.. Hoping to have her going by Thursday       
				__________________ 76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson | 
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