Setting the timing 617.952 HELP!!!!
 

I need help from the experts,
Here is the background. I am putting my engine into my toyota. The engine came from a junkyard 85 300D. It had quite a bit of leaks so I was going to replace the seals and clean her up. Now I am stuck because I was an idiot thinking that this diesel rebuild would be like my gas engine. I pulled the timing chain and pulled the head off. I am working to reinstall the timing chain and head but I don't know how to set timing properly.
Do I just line the timing marks up on the cam and IP with the crank and call it good? I have read something about it should be set to 24 degrees BTDC. Is that set by lining the marks or do I line the marks and have to adjust something else? This is my first diesel and so far I am not getting a good run at it. I really appreciate everything and have already learned so much from this forum.

You need to line up the marks on the crank/cam and then set the ip timing. Go to startekinfo.com for manuals.

Did you remove the timing chain completely?

Generally speaking if you are wanting advice about diesel engines then you are best off asking in the Diesel section (DD) of this forum. Some of us migrate between DD and tech help - some don't.

First step - go to www.startekinfo.com as engatwork says and click on MB workshop resources then CD/DVD to find the W123 manual.

Second step - although this isn't written in the book my advice is to fit the head (new gasket needed!) and fit the camshaft and the camshaft towers.

This is the point where ideally you should be fitting a new timing chain. (IWIS brand)

If you are going to fit the old chain the procedure is a little bit more complicated if you have lost your place.

NEW CHAIN =>

Camshaft tower has a mark - crank set at TDC on cylinder #1

Fit the new chain and camshaft sprocket before fitting the rocker arms / camshaft followers to give you time to know that you have the valve training timing correctly set. You can rotate the crank (ONLY clockwise direction when standing in front of the engine looking at it) to your heart's content safe in the knowledge that valves will not be hitting pistons. Check the TDC and camshaft mark. Don't forget the effect of the tensioner!

OLD CHAIN =>

If you are fitting a used chain you essentially do the same as above but as a last check you need to perform the 2mm lift check and fit an offset key to bring the camshaft timing back into the correct position. You will need to fit the first set of camshaft followers to allow this test to be performed. On a seiously elongated timing chain you could get piston and valve interference if you are unlucky. This is a potentially dodgy process to perform!

If you have lost your place with a used chain you are best off getting a new one.

Third step - you now need to set "begin of delivery" on the injection pump so the fuel gets added to the cylinders at the correct time.

Always put some white out on the chain and sprockets. However, I just removed the head and left the chain. There's a chance of the timing gear slipping a link, and I did not want my valves to interface with the Pistons. So I didn't mark it, lined them up, then checked my IP timing.

To answer your question vaguely, line the marks and then adjust something else. the IP drops in with a mark to line up with tdc. The holes are elongated to allow it to rotate after and set the timing. Drip timing is somewhat non scientific and an art, so take your time and relax. If you haven't removed the IP, it may be on point.

Being a novice to this motor, and seeing it happen before, make sure your balancer is on right with the head off. Goto TDC and look to make sure #1 is at the top. It can happen.

On my motor there are pins on the balancer to place it. The ones mercedes sells now days are 4mm too long, and if you install them they can slip and eat the crank or split and rotate the balancer.

Like they said. Check valve timing with chain stretch. Probably buy a new chain and guides if you are in there.

A thing that surprised me (as a novice), the rocker arms go on the head after the chain and tensioner are in. That way you can roll around and slip them in.

If the heads off, you might want to have the machine shop take a look. For my 4 cylinder, it was only $225 in labor and $60 for all new guides. Unnecessary, only the exhaust showed wear.

If you do guides, turbo motors get brass and NA gets steel.