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#16
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To get to the pump you must remove the interior trunk paneling/trim panels .
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J. William Tarbrake NY State Dealer 7014303DLU Registered repair shop R7014303 82 300SD modified for waste vegatable oil 92 300SE 270K miles perfect 79 450SEL (2 tone custom paint for special occations) SOLD 80 450SL 79 450SL 69K Miles FOR SALE 86 Carver 28 Voyager twin 270 Crusaders (SOLD) 94 CARVER 32 Voyager(SOLD) 67 Chris Craft 40' Aft Cabin(twin ford 427 side oilers) |
#17
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arif - The trunk has a clothlike enclosure all around. There are small round plastic things that look like a rivet. Take a screwdriver and pry the center up, and pull it out then the other part should pull up. There is a lot of them to remove. Pump is on the drivers side. Worst part is removing the panel to get to it.
Gilly - Does the pump in the trunk operate the trunk handle on a 1995 S-350 or is it the pump under the rear seat. Every now and then in cold weather my handle that you pull the trunk shut with (the retractable hand grip), will retract like it is supposed to, then it will pop back out and stay out with the trunk shut. The trunk dash light and trunk lights will come on also and drain the battery if left alone. I have already changed the pump in the trunk about 2 years ago.
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1995 S-350 370K + SOLD 1952 220B Cabriolet 39K kilometers + SOLD 1998 E300D 310K + 2012 E350 BlueTec 120K |
#18
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??
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1995 S-350 370K + SOLD 1952 220B Cabriolet 39K kilometers + SOLD 1998 E300D 310K + 2012 E350 BlueTec 120K |
#19
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On the 95, I believe it's the one under the back seat, the PSE pump. Originally it was the one in the trunk, the CF or Convenience Feature pump, but it was decided to move it to the PSE pump instead, I think to make it faster acting. I believe the change at the factory was pretty early in 140 production, I'm thinking during the 1993 model year.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#20
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based on this last response are there 2 pumps involved? my trunk assist is the problem but the doors seem to work OK.
for a 1993 sel500 should l be looking for the pump under the rear seat????
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1993 500SEL |
#21
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The pump in the trunk pulls down the trunk lid and the one under the rear seat closed and opens the handle that pops out.
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1995 S-350 370K + SOLD 1952 220B Cabriolet 39K kilometers + SOLD 1998 E300D 310K + 2012 E350 BlueTec 120K |
#22
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Arif:
I believe Old South is correct on this. This may be another case where pulling the pump fuse may reset the safety feature and allow the trunk pull-down to work again, if only temporarily. That again is fuse 9, located in the rear fuse box, which is behind the square panel on the right side trunk trim. Pull the fuse out for about 10 seconds, then reinstall it, the trunk may work again. I can explain why this happens if it fixes it, let me know. Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#23
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Gilly- pulling fuse 9 does make the trunk assist work again but only temporarily, and the frequency of it not working has been increasing over the past weeks. Please do explain the cause.
l am now thinking of just replacing the vac pump and then see if that fixes it. any suggestions? thanks
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1993 500SEL |
#24
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Hey......can i have some help too?
My trunk closer doesnt even close anymore. The chrome handle (didnt they change it to black in 95) pops out, but when i close the trunk i have to slam it, because it wont close any other way.
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"If I teach you half of what I forgot, you'll still have enough to compete with most people" |
#25
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This is how to find the pump....
ARIF:
Remove the front trunk liner that is up against the fuel tank. After removing it, on the left side (driver side) there is a Bose stereo amp (that also goes bad) which needs to be removed first for access to the vacuum pump. Take the amp out and the pump is in front of the amp. It is packaged in a foam container and inside is a plastic box housing....stupid as it can't breathe or get fresh air. The pump on the early cars usually goes bad and can be rebuilt as the new ones are big $$$ Been there....the unit locks up! For the trunk latch adjustment, look on the inside of the trunk where the latch slides in. The 10mm bolts that hold the receiver in the correct position sometimes get loose over time and need to be readjusted and tightened. Tobias MB 4 MBs Last edited by Tobias MB; 07-04-2002 at 05:39 PM. |
#26
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Arif:
It's possible but not all that likely that the pump is the problem. What is happening is that if the pump tries to pull down the trunk after you latch it, and it doesn't see confirmation via a microswitch that the trunk is closed completely, eventually it will basically say "the hell with it" and not even try anymore, it figures (sometimes correctly) that the vacuum servo leaks vacuum, and it's only going to wear itself (the pump) out by trying, so it's really a safety system to protect itself. BUT since you can remove the fuse and it works fine, you can kind of assume the vacuum servo itself is probably OK. What is more likely is that there is a problem with either the latch or the microswitch so that the pump isn't "seeing" the trunk fully closing, even though it is. Could also be a wiring problem or an internal fault in the pump so that it isn't recognizing the trunk lid going fully closed. On Benzman600's car, there are a few controls on the inside of the trunk trim, a couple square holes in the trim through which you can access a couple levers (on the inside of the trunk lid trim "behind" the license plate inside the trunk lid). Look in your owners manual to know which does what, i can't remember all the details of this. But I believe that one of those possibly disables the trunk pull down feature, so maybe that's your only problem, it may be shut off through one of those levers. Gilly ps benzman600 there is also a switch which recognizes that the trunk has been opened, it also controls the trunk light. if the trunk light is inop (switch faulty), this may I believe also keep the trunk pull down system from operating. Does the trunk light work?
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#27
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Yessssssssss, the light stays on
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"If I teach you half of what I forgot, you'll still have enough to compete with most people" |
#28
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The problem probably is in the bottom part of the latch then, not the upper part in the lid. You can take the botton trim off and see the microswitch in the bottom part that's supposed to close when the latch closes, maybe you can see a problem and correct it. Surprised you don't have a concern with the battery going dead if the car isn't used for a few days.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#29
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Hi there...
Thans for the great details listed here. I have the same problem, the drivers door will not suck. I tried resetting the pump by removing the fuse #9 and replace after 1 minutes. Everything is normal only that the problem will re-occur after a day. I know Gilly has said if the problem continue, pump replacement will fix the problem. However since there is another element here, the micro switch, would it be the micro switch that is bad? Any way to test? Where is the switch? Can I swap it with another door? Car in concern is a 92 140 300 SE. Pump had been replaced once in 95-96. Thanks |
#30
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closing assist
Gilly is correct, sometimes it is possible to re-sync the pump by pulling the fuse. This will either fix it, or it will come back, mine would only last a month or so. At one time I entertained putting in a switch to reset it in line with the fuse, it was a bad idea.
There are two pumps located in the vehicle, one controls the pull-in of the doors and trunk/and handle, and is located above the rear wheel next to the gas tank. if you have a CD you have to remove it to get the liner out. This pump creates vacum to pull in/ and does it untill it sees an output from the microswitch, I think it also provides pressure to reset the pull in actuator. If it does not it will time out! I saw a post somewhere where the person actually noticed the door pull in and then relax slightly after the latch closed. The other pump is located under the passenger rear seat, and controls lock/unlock of the doors, gas door, lumbar, on some model the hearests, lumbar support, and provides vacum for the climate control system if needed. The locking pump also provides pressure and vacum depending on the function. Before replacing the pumps check the actuators to see if they handle pressure or vacum without leak down. The closing pump has given more trouble than the lock/unlock and is a little pricey $600 the other about $500. There was a dealer bulletin to move the handle portion to the lock unlock pump, as previous posts noted, they did it after the second pump failed. I hope this helps |
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