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#16
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He connected gauges and showed me high side about ~150 or less. As for the evaporator.....I do get cold air in the beginning, but then it warms up and won't get cold again unless car sits off for a while.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#17
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Quote:
Before replacing the compressor I'd replace the expansion valve. Btw if you do in fact need a compressor I have a brand new Denso 10pa15c in box I'll sell to you less than anywhere online...it's been sitting in my garage after I thought mine was bad and I need it gone now. Do yourself a favor and go to harbor freight and buy the ac gauge kit it's 50 bucks then you can do all this yourself. 150psi is too low to cool. You'll need closer to 200 before you will feel anything.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#18
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Quote:
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#19
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Are you still getting 0 PSI on the low side and 150 on the high? As long as you have enough freon in the system, this shows that the compressor is pumping and the expansion valve is stuck shut. Even with a low charge you will get spurts of cold air.
From your description you get initial cooling that goes away after a while. If the compressor was bad, the pressures would fall off as the cooling level drops. A 45 min rebuild is not likely outside of a production environment where dozens are being built at the same time. |
#20
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Freon is fully charged. I charged it, he charged it and still yielded the same results.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#21
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You still haven't given both high and low readings -- the reason for my post that you need gauges. High and low work in tandem together...
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#22
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High is less than 150 low is zero
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#23
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Do you understand my post 19 and why the pressures you have point to a stuck closed expansion valve?
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#24
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Would an expansion valve that is stuck closed still allow for brief cooling? During the first 30 - 45 seconds of start up?
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#25
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Low at zero means there is a restriction in the system. Figure out where it is. The line that goes from compressor to condenser to drier to expansion valve should be Hot. If it's cold anywhere on the hoses you have found the problem. If it's all hot -- replace expansion valve.
To your question yes its not plugged enough to allow nothing yo happen...it's just when the compressor starts pulling it creates a vacuum.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#26
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If it was mine, I would just go ahead and replace the drier/receiver and expansion valve, pull a vacuum and recharge. Then decide if the compressor is bad.
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1993 190E 2.3 2001 SLK230 1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible |
#27
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Well as I've stated before the forum has never steered me wrong and plus replacing these parts would need replacing anyways. I will go ahead and do this then report my findings.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#28
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Sounds like a clogged expansion valve. Once you pull the exp. valve, inspect it for debris. If it has debris, then you might need a new compressor along with a system flush. If not, you are ok, just replace the valve, pull a vacuum and charge.
When replacing o-rings, recommend using Nylog (blue for R134 and red for R12) to lubricate the o-rings.
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1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009) 2000 Xterra (5/2000) 1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold 1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold 2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold |
#29
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Yes, my 97 SL320 was like that. The valve is open when things are sitting, it starts to close as the evap gets cold / pressure rises then is supposed to open when more cooling is needed. It is sticking shut not letting freon into the evap and stays stuck untill pressures slowly equalize with the AC off. There isn't anything to clean, a good brand like 4 Seasons is ~ $ 30 . For most modern cars, there is a single nut holding the hoses on, then 2 allens holding the valve to the evap. There will be 4 different sized o rings that need a bit of compressor lube during install thought a bit of oil would be OK. If the nuts / allens are excessively tight, hold the block from twisting to keep pressure off the evap tubes. When the expansion valve sticks / does not open, all the freon ends up between the compressor outlet and expansion valve. This is evident by the 0 PSI on the suction / low side and decent pressure on the discharge / high side. |
#30
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Anyone know the size hex key I need to remove the expansion valve? It's somewhere between a 3mm and 4mm
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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