Wheel wobble and pulls to right...wheel bearing?
 

This is on my 300TE. It has been like this for a while and when I had it aligned the dealer said it was a radial defect in the new set of tires I bought so I didn't worry about it. 30k miles later I replace all the tires and it's still here.

The steering wheel wobbles at speed a little and I have a good pull to the right. This morning I noticed that while braking it does not pull and drives straight.

I've replaced the LCA ball joints tie rods center link and idler arm bushings.

I have 162k now and the wheel bearings are original and have never been repacked. Could the bearings be the problem based on my description?

Have you tried rotating your tires to see if that makes any difference?

Yep when the tires were replaced I moved them all around just in case it could have been a bent rim or something

If the bearings are the factory packed originals then you are asking a bit too much from the lubricant and bearing.

I would suggest replacing them or atleast repacking them after a good close inspection.

At your car's age the grease must be spent.

With the work to take them out I'll replace them. Will I need to reset the toe after?

Look for a stuck piston in the RF caliper, and a high spot in that rotor.

I guess I never considered that. I do not own a tool to measure caliper thickness. Can I just use any sort of digital caliper or is there a special tool specific for measuring brake disk wear?

I am driving the car today. When I get home I can immediately use my IR temp gun and see if that brake disk is hotter than the other. Although it might also be warmer if the bearing is bad too. Might be interesting to notate anyway.

Thanks guys.

No need normally to align after the front bearing job.

you can use a vernier calipers to measure the brake disc provided if you can find two spacers so that you are measuring the wear surface of the disc and not getting hung up on the edge of the disc.

Use the spacers on the caliper jaws and subtract the length of the spacers from the measurement.

Inspect the lower control arm bushings closely, had a w210 with a shimmy and it was a broken lca bushing causing the shimmy

ps2cho, no real need to measure the disc thickness. What you should do is measure the run-out with a dial indicator to ensure that disc runs straight and true when turned. Typically, front discs will last through 2 sets of front brake pads, then need to be replaced. If it's been a while since you last replaced front discs, simply replace the front discs. I always buy new discs from our local MB dealer. Be sure to replace the brake pads too, and seat them in properly so as not to warp the new discs from the jump.

As Frank says caliper pistons should retract easily with moderate force.

If you repack/replace the front wheel bearings there is a precise procedure for repacking them. Be sure to follow it to ensure long bearing life.

I can definitely do that since I need a dial gauge to set the bearing load. What is an acceptable run out amount? Is there an MB spec?

Just looked on my excel doc and I replaced front rotors in November 2013 with 140k on odo, so they have 22k on them -- not too old. I have a feeling this issue predates the rotor replacement, but it cant hurt to test anyway since I'll have the tool.

Bearings don't often result in wobble, they usually make a racket first.

See if you can isolate the problem. You've already replaced most of the front components and rotated the tires around, try swapping the front rotors around and see if the problem moves to the other side......Also don't forget to move the brake pads too so they are on the same rotor.

ps2cho, just read your original post again. The steering wheel wobble at speed could be the result of tires/wheels that need to be road-force balanced, or the steering damper could be shot. When was the steering damper replaced last?

Not sure about the allowable runout for a disc; however, unless you experience a vibration while braking I would conclude that the front discs are OK and not warped.