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#1
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Why do we need K1 and K2 springs?
So the info is out there on how to replace these and what they fix. I just got a 190D that I've nursed back to health and only need to get rid of the 2-3 and 3-4 flare, but I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find answers for.
What exactly happens when the flares start and a new K1 is needed? Does the spring itself wear out? Is the new spring revised? Does it compensate for other wear in the transmission? a band-aid per say? There is way less talk about the K2 spring for 3-4. Is it less likely to fix this? These questions are for my mechanical curiosity and so I can sleep at night until my springs come and I can service the trans. Thank you. (btw, Ive disconnected vacuum to the modulator. I get a clunk AFTER the flare when it goes into gear. I don't think vacuum is my problem ) |
#2
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Disconnecting vacuum
will guarantee harsh shifts and/or flares. I suggest hooking it back up and chasing vac leaks before tearing into the transmission.
Also, look carefully behind the vac switch. There is a mechanical link between throttle and tranny. Make certain the link has not separated. It will shift but slip a *****. |
#3
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yes I know. Disconnecting it guarantees hard shifts. Also eliminates too much vacuum as a possibility for the flares. It clunks, so I know the modulator isn't stuck or something like that.
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#4
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PM member MAVA. He is a tranny expert and should have an answer for you.
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'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold |
#5
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Read this first - Mercedes-Benz Transmission, Steve Brotherton, ImportCar, February 2002
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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